Features of Huckaback weaves

The weave is characterized by a rough surface.

It is produced by floating threads in groups
arranged on a plain weave basis.
Repeat: Twice of an odd number: 10X10
With these constructions hardwearing and
extremely thick, moisture absorbing fabrics are
produced.
10X10 is the widely used repeat size.
The weave can be divided diagonally into equal
parts.

Characteristics of ordinary honeycomb:

Alternate raised and sunk diamond shaped

area
Rough surface
Weave contains long floats
Repeat size : number of ends and picks
may be equal or unequal but multiple of
two
Normally pointed drafting systems are
used.

Main features of Brighton honeycomb:

More honeycomb cells of varying sizes.

Rough surfaces
Repeat number will be multiple of four.
Longest float of diamond will be one less than
half the number of threads in the repeat.
Example: If the repeat 12X12 , then long float
will be 12/2 -1=5
Both sides of the fabric look same as ordinary
honeycomb.
Straight drafting system is used

Features of Mock leno weaves

1.
2.
3.

4.
5.

It is open perforated weaves like leno

fabrics.
It is produced in the ordinary way
without special leno shafts.
The similarity of this weave to the
Huckaback is quite obvious, but the
method of denting is different, as it is
necessary to encourage thread grouping.
The weave is arranged in groups of
equal or unequal sizes.
Even number repeat size is normally
used. Minimum repeat: 6x6

Features of Bedford cord design:

The weave produces longitudinal warp lines with

fine sunken lines between the cord
Warp face cloth
Two or more cords are produced in one repeat
Ends and picks are always even number
Picks number always four. Eg: 12X4, 16X4 etc.

Types of Bedford cord

1.
2.
3.
4.

5.

Plain face Bedford cord

Wadded Bedford cord
Crepon bedford cord
Bedford cord arranged with alternate
picks.
Twill face Bedford cord

Main features of Pique weave

A typical pique structure consists of a plain

face fabric composed of one series of
warp & weft threads and a series of back
or stitching warp threads.
Continuous sunken lines or cuts i.e. cords
are run horizontally in the cloth.
One cord is produced per repeat.
Normally skip drafting system is used to
produce this weave

Types of pique weave

There are four types of pique weaves:
1. Ordinary pique or welt structure/ Loose
back without wadding picks.
2. Weft wadded welts/ Loose back wadded
welt structure.
3. Fast back welt or pique structure
4. Waved pique structure

Ordinary welts

The number of face picks in the width of a

cord is varied according to requirements,
but usually the number of consecutive
picks that are unstitched should not
exceed twelve.
The order of warp thread arrangement,
which is always one face or ground and
one stitching or back end and one face
end (g-s-g). Or in the proportion of two
face to one stitching end.

Wadded welts

In order to increase the prominence of the

unstitched portions i.e. horizontal cords of
the cloth, it is customary to insert wadded
picks between the tight back stitching
ends and the slack face fabric.
Usually the wadding weft is thicker than
the ground weft and is inserted tow picks
at a place.
Thick wadding picks which are inserted in
pairs, are supplemented by single wadding
picks of the face weft.

Wadded welts

The stitching ends are placed on a

separate beam which is very highly
weighted, where as the face ends are kept
at moderate tension.
At intervals the tight stitching ends are
interwoven into the plain face texture

Cord effect in the cloth

By using thicker yarn

By producing a. Bedford cord weave

b. Pique weave

Sponge weave

The number of ends and picks are always equal.

10x10 is the smallest repeat size of this weave.
Straight drafting system is used to produce this
weave.
Low twisted and coarser yarns are used to
produce this fabric. So the fabric is very soft and
absorbent.
Longest float of the diamond=

Number of ends or picks in the repeat 1

Sponge weave

It is reversible cloth like honeycomb.

Honeycomb weave produce one cell on
both sides but in this case number of
produced cell depends on the number of
repeat size.
The weave is produced on the sateen
base.

Extra warp design

1.

2.

3.
4.

The productivity of a loom is greater

because only one series of picks is
inserted.
No special picking box and take-up
motions are required.
There is theoretically no limit to the
number of colors that can be introduced.
In the intermittent arrangement of the
extra ends either spotted or stripe
patterns can be formed.

Extra warp design

Two or more warp beams may be required

instead of one.
Stronger yarn is required for the weave.
Extra ends are subjected to greater
tension during weaving.
If the extra threads have to be removed
from the underside of the cloth, it is more
difficult and costly to cut away extra ends.

Tubular fabric

Concept:
Tubular weave is a kind of double weave
which both selvedges are joined.
Application:
Tubular fabrics are used for fire hoses,
seamless bags, sacks, tubular shaped
filter, covering Cylindrical objects, artificial
vessels, etc. Various dimensions can be
produced.

Basic principle of tubular cloth production

A tubular fabric consists of two distinct

face and back fabrics in which selvedges
are joined, because the shuttle flies left to
right, inserting the face pick and then flies
in the opposite direction, inserting the
back pick. When the pick is inserted into
the face fabric all the threads of the back
warp should be lowered. And when the
pick is inserted into the back fabric all the
face warp threads should be raised.

Seamless bag production

While producing seamless bags, the

shuttle inserts two face picks passing from
left to right and from right to left. Then
two back picks are inserted. As a result,
only the left selvedges of the face and
back fabrics are joined, forming the
bottom of the bag. The sides of the bag
are formed by making a short length of
the double fabric and then again a whole
width of the bag.

Uses of tubular fabrics

Uses of tubular fabrics

Main points of designing a tubular fabric

(1) Selection of base weaves. The face weave and back

weave should be same. And the structure should be
simple. The following weaves can be used as the bases:
plain weave,2/2(2) hopsack,2/2 weft ribs, twill, etc. The
shift in weft direction should be constant, otherwise, the
selvedges are not evenness.
(2) Arrangements of face and back threads.
Arrangements in warp direction should be 1:1; and in
weft direction must be 1:1, otherwise, the selvedges can
not joined properly.
(3) Calculation of the total number of ends. To achieve a
perfect continuation of the weave from face to back and
vice versa, certain rules for the calculation of the total
number of ends in fabric have to be observed.

Stitched double cloths

Double cloths are fabrics in which there

are at least two series of warp and weft
threads each of which is engaged
primarily in producing its own layer of
cloth.
The two layers may be only loosely
connected together. Each layer may be
readily identified as a different entity or
they may be so intricately stitched or tied
together that they appear to form a
complex single structure.

Purpose of this construction

For the improvement of the thermal

insulation value of a fabric.
The capacity for producing intricate effects
dependent upon either color or structural
changes.

Classification of double cloth

1.
2.
3.

4.

5.

Self stitched double cloth

Center stitched double cloth
Double cloth stitched by thread
interchange.
Double cloth stitched by cloth
interchange
Alternate single ply and double ply
construction

Cloths Made in the Plain Weave

A partial list of plain weave fabrics are as follows:

1. Cottons: Gingham, percale, voile, pliss crepe, batiste, calico,

chambray, cheese-cloth, chintz, crash, cretonne, muslin sheeting,
cambric, lawn, organdy, shantung, unbleached muslin, scrim,
buckram, canvas, flannelette.
2. Linens: Handkerchief linen, art linen, rash toweling, cambric,
dress
3. Nylons and other man-made fibered fabrics: Organdy,
lingerie crepe, shantung, taffeta, shirting ( many of these
constructions are also made in blends with natural yarns and with
other man-made fibered yarns).
4. Rayons and/or acetates: Taffeta, georgette, flat crepe,
seersucker,
5. Silks. Taffeta, organza, voile, Canton crepe, crepe de Chine, flat
crepe, chiffon, shantung, silk shirting, broad cloth, China silk.
6. Wools. Homespun, challis, crepe, batiste, some tweeds, voile.