WHAT IS QUALITY?

What would someone mean by the quality

of a shoe?

Let us suppose that it is a mans shoe that he is asking

about.
Does he mean by good quality that it wears a long time?
Or that it takes a shine well?
That is feels comfortable?
That it is waterproof?
That the price is right in consideration of whatever he
considers quality? Or it is good in design?
Put another way, what quality-characteristics are
important to the customer? - Deming

WHAT IS QUALITY?
Product quality is based on a product attribute.
How will you differentiate the quality between woven shirt and
sweater?
User-based quality is fitness for use,
How will you differentiate the quality between women garments
and kids garments as a wearer?
manufacturing based quality is conformance to requirements,
Which quality parameters will be followed when manufacturing
thermal wear and sweat jacket?

value based quality is the degree of excellence at an acceptable

price
Zara jacket or mango jackets are products gives value for money

QUALITY types?
Assurance: The act of giving confidence,
the state of being certain
or the act of making certain.
Quality Assurance: The planned and systematic activities
implemented in a quality system so that quality requirements for a
product or service will be fulfilled.
Control:

An evaluation to indicate needed corrective responses;

the act of guiding a process
in which variability is attributable
to a constant system of chance causes.

Quality Control: The observation techniques and activities used to

fulfill requirements for quality.

DEFINITIONS OF QUALITY
Conformance to specifications
The
degree to which a product or

service
meets the needs of the

customer
Uniformity around a customerdefined target
Exceeding customer expectations
The customer is the most important part of the process.

IMPACT OF HIGHER QUALITY ON VALUE

LESS WAIST
LESS
REWORK

HIGHER
QUALITY

FEW
REJECTION
LESS
BACKLOG
FEW
COMPLAINT
S
FEW
RETURNS

LOWER
COST
HIGH
PRODUCTIVI
TY

HIGHER
VALUE

QUALITY MUST BE CONSIDER AT ALL STAGES IN THE LIFE CYCLE, AS

SHOWN BELOW, OF A PRODUCT.
MARKETING &
MARKET
RESEARCH

DISPOSA
L
TECHNICAL
ASSISTANCE &
MAINTENANCE

REQUIREMENT
S&
SPECIFICATION
DESIGN&
DEVELOPME
NT

INSTALLATIO
N&
OPERATION

PROCUREME
NT

SALES&
DISTRIBUTI
ON
PACKAGING
&
STORAGE

PROCESS
PLANNING &
DEVELOPMENT
PRODUCTIO
N
INSPECTION,
TESTING &
EXAMINATION

Quality inspection in apparel industries

Visual examination or
review of raw materials,
partially finished components of garments
and completely finished garments in relation to some
standards, specifications, or requirements, as well as
measuring garments to check if they meet the
required measurements.

QUALITY INSPECTION IN APPAREL

INDUSTRIES
Do to control quality of garments.
Checking of fabric,
Sewing thread,
Button,
Stitching,
Zipper and other trims,
Garments measurements/size etc
according to required standard or specification is
known as inspection.
Quality inspection is important for every section of
apparel industries.

STEPS IN APPAREL INDUSTRIES TO CONTROL

QUALITY

RAW MATERIAL
INSPECTION

IN PROCESS INSPECTION

FINAL INSPECTION

RAW MATERIALS INSPECTION

It is done for the raw materials which are used in
the apparel production like fabric, sewing thread,
button, other accessories etc.
It is also termed as incoming material inspection.
Normally this is mainly done for fabrics using 4
point system or 10 point system.

ONLINE OR IN-PROCESS INSPECTION

This is done during the manufacturing process so that if
there is any problem in the process that will be rectified
in that stage itself.
This will be carried out by the quality controllers
periodically say every two or three hours.
They will check the measurement and defects and make
the inspection report which will be intimated to the
production in-charge.

FINAL INSPECTION
This inspection is done after the goods are
manufactured and packed in carton boxes and which are
ready for the shipment.
The goods are inspected and will be graded as per
acceptable quality level (AQL) which is prescribed by the
buyer.
The goods can be shipped after the final inspection is
passed.

QUALITY INSPECTION IN APPAREL

INDUSTRIES
IN SAMPLE MAKING SECTION
IN-MARKER MAKING SECTION

INSPECTION IN FABRIC SPREADING SECTION

INSPECTION IN FABRIC CUTTING SECTION

INSPECTION IN FABRIC SEWN SECTION

INSPECTION IN PRESSING & FINISHING SECTION

QUALITY INSPECTION IN SAMPLING

MAINTAINING BUYER SPECIFICATION STANDARD
CHECKING THE SAMPLE AND ITS DIFFERENT ISSUES

MEASUREMENTS CHECKING
FABRIC COLOR, GSM, FASTNESS ETC PROPERTIES
REQUIRED CHECKING
SPI AND OTHER PARAMETER CHECKING
ANY OTHER DETAILING CHECKING

QUALITY CONTROL IN MARKER MAKING

TO CHECK NOTCH OR DRILL MARK
FABRIC WIDTH MUST BE HIGHER THAN MARKER WIDTH
FABRIC LENGTH MUST BE HIGHER THAN MARKER
LENGTH
MATCHING OF GREEN LINE

CHECK PATTERN SIZE AND DIMENSION

MATCHING OF CHECK AND STRIPE TAKING INTO
CONSIDERATION
CONSIDERING GARMENTS PRODUCTION PLAN
PATTERN DIRECTION CONSIDERATION

QUALITY CONTROL IN FABRIC SPREADING

FABRIC SPREADING ACCORDING TO CORRECT
ALIGNMENT WITH MARKER LENGTH AND WIDTH
MAINTAIN REQUIREMENTS OF SPREADING
LAY CONTAINS CORRECT NUMBER OF FABRIC PLY

CORRECT PLY DIRECTION

TO CONTROL THE FABRIC SPLICING
TENSION CONTROL

QUALITY CONTROL IN FABRIC CUTTING

The dimension of the pattern and the cut piece should be same and accurate

CUT EDGE SHOULD BE SMOOTH AND CLEAN

NOTCH SHOULD BE CUT FINELY
DRILL HOLE SHOULD MADE AT PROPER PLACE

NO YARN FRAYING SHOULD OCCUR AT CUT EDGE

AVOID BLADE DEFLECTION
MAINTAIN CUTTING ANGLE
MORE SKILLED OPERATOR USING

QUALITY CONTROL IN SEWING SECTION

INPUT MATERIAL
CHECKING

CUT PANEL AND ACCESSORIES

CHECKING

THREAD COUNT
MACHINE IS IN WELL CONDITION
CHECK
SPECIAL WORK LIKE EMBROIDERY, PRINTING PANEL
CHECK
NEEDLE SIZE
STITCHING FAULT SHOULD BE
CHECKING
CHECKED
GARMENTS MEASUREMENT
SEAM FAULT CHECK
CHECK
MISMATCHING MATCHING OF
TRIMMING
WRONG PLACEMENT OF
INTERLINING

SIZE MISTAKE CHECK

SHADE VARIATION WITHIN THE
CLOTH

CREASED OR WRINKLE APPEARANCE CONTROL

QUALITY CONTROL IN FINISHING SECTION

Proper inspection of the garments including measurement, spot, dirt,
impurities Water spot

SHADING VARIATION
CHECK
WRONG FOLD

SMOOTH AND UNFOLD IN

POCKET
IN SECURED OR BROKEN CHAIN OR
BUTTON

WANTED WRINKLE OR FOLD IN

LINING
PROPERLY DRIED IN AFTER
COLLAR CLOSING
PRESSING
SIDE
SLEEVE PLACKET
GET UP CHECKING
SEAM
ATTACH
EVERY PARTS OF A
CUFF
BACK YOKE
ATTACH
BODY
BOTTOM HEM
PROPER SHAPE IN
GARMENTS

FABRIC INSPECTION
Done through Fabric Inspection machine.

Very important for every industries .

In fabric inspection their checks several things i.e. in fabric
are there any defect available or not. In fabric, fabric
defects viz. off shade or shade variation, hole in fabric,
barre effect etc. can be visual after entering into the store
room. For those defects it will be problem able for making
garments making.
In fabric inspection, also test fabric strength, color,
quantity

To check fabric there are different system i.e. 4 point

system, 10 point system etc.

FABRIC INSPECTION

FABRIC INSPECTION

FABRIC INSPECTION

SEWING THREAD INSPECTION

During stitching fabric frequently brakeage of sewing thread is one
of the great problems for garments manufacturing.
So that it is necessary to check

THREAD CONSTRUCTION,
SEWABILITY,
COLOR,
IMPERFECTION,
FINISH, PACKAGE
THREAD NUMBER,
THREAD PLY,
THREAD TENACITY,
THREAD ELONGATION,
WINDING,
YARDAGE OF SEWING THREAD.

TRIMS AND ACCESSORIES INSPECTION

The final quality of any garment is also affected by trims and
accessories applied in it.
So that it is necessary to check
BUTTON,
ZIPPERS
INTERLINING,
LABEL &
TAGS
also need to check so that quality can be maintain according to
required quality.
FOR BUTTON,
BUTTON STRENGTH,
BUTTON COLOR,
QUANTITY ETC ARE CHECKED.

IN PROCESS INSPECTION
Inspecting different parts of garments before sewing are called
in process inspection.
It starts from marker making, than fabric spreading, fabric
cutting, fabric sewing, pressing or finishing checking is done in
process.

MARKER MAKING
FABRIC SPREADING
FABRIC CUTTING
SORTING/ BUNDLING
FABRIC SEWING
SEAM DEFECTS
ASSEMBLY DEFECTS
PRESSING/ FINISHING DEFECTS

PATTERN GRADING DEFECTS

1. Grade Not Conforming to Specification
measurements
Finished product not measuring to specified dimension
component parts not fitting in relationship to notches,
openings and seams such as armholes sleeve heads
neck bands,
neck openings and side seams inseams,
waist measurements and etc.
2. Distorted Grading:
Unbalanced patterns which would cause twisted
seams,
puckering,
pleating and
a general uneconomical yardage waste.

MARKER

MARKER INSPECTION
It is necessary to check all the parts of garments pattern are in
marker.
In marker labelling or coding of pattern should be checked
Pattern direction should be checked.
Pattern grain line is very important thing which must be
considered during marker making.
During marker making every pattern pieces dimension should be
accurate.
During marker making fabric length and width should be
considered.

MARKER INSPECTION
Notches & drill marks
Knife clearance
Checks and stripes (mittering)
Marker width

MARKING DEFECTS
Shaded Parts:-All component pans not included in same
section.
Pieces not Symmetrical:-Will not sew together without puckering
or pleating.
Not Marked by Directional Lines:-Bias will not lit together,
causing twisting, puckering. pleating and a general mismatching
of component parts.
Skimpy marking:-Marker did not use outside perimeter of
pattern.
Notches and Punch Marks:-Left out., not clearly marked or
misplaced.

Marker Too Wide:-Parts will not catch in lay, causing skimpy

garments or requiring results.

MARKER DEFECTS
Pattern moved after partially marked to fit into space.
Marker Too Narrow:-Results In wasted material
Mismatched Plaids-Marker did not block component parts to
match.
Misdirected Napping:-Patterns not marked in same direction and
napped fabrics.

SPREADING

SPREADING INSPECTION
Factors which must be checked
Fabric Nature
Ply alignment
Ply tension/slackness
Bowing
Splicing
Grain-line
Shade variation
Selvedge alignment & tightness
Fabric width
Checks
Static electricity

SPREADING DEFECTS
1. Uneven Spreading:-Front edge of lay is not even, resulting in
front or back edge of marker not catching all ply.
2. Narrow Material:-Bolts or rolls of material too narrow to cover
marker width.
3. Missed Sectional Breaks:-Sectional marker breaks too long
or too short. Parts in lay will be short or material wasted.
4. Improper Tension:-Cloth spread too tight or too loose,
causing parts not to fit in sewing or distorting dimensions of
garments.
5. Mismatching Plaids:-Material spread too loose or too tight
causing plaid lines to run diagonally or bow.
6. Misdirected Napping:-Air pockets not removed. Napped
material reversed in spreading.
7. Improper Matching of Face of Material:-Not spread face
down, face up or face to face as required.

FRAYED EDGE

FUZZY, RAGGED OR SERRATED EDGES

CUTTING INSPECTION
Marker Making

Fabric Spreading

Placing Marker Paper on to the Lay

Fabric Cutting

Numbering

100% checking & Parts Replacing if needed.

Shorting & Bundling

Sewing/Assembling

CUTTING INSPECTION
Ply to ply fusion
Single edge fusion

Pattern precision
Notches & drillers
Cutting Equipment precision

CUTTING DEFECTS
1. Misplaced Piece Rate Tickets or Bundle Members:-Attached to, or marked
on, wrong bundles, causing mixed sizes or land shades.
2. Drill Marks:-Drill marks misplaced, not perpendicular, omitted or wrong side
drill used.
3. Opening Slits:-Cut under above to the side or at incorrect angle. Not cut
through entire bundle or omitted.

4. Improper Cutting:-Not following marker lines, resulting in distorted parts.

Letting knife lean causing top and bottom ply to be of different sizes.
5. Notches:-Misplaced, too deep, too shallow or omitted.
6. Oil Spots:-Equipment improperly oiled or cleaned.
7. Improper Knife Sharpening:-Causing ragged, frayed or fused edges on
bundles.

SORTING/ BUNDLING
It is necessary to check numbering, sorting, and
bundling is done accurately.

DEFECTS
1. Not Stacked in Numerical Order: Bundle
numbers not in order on rack skid or box.
2. Matching Linings: Wrong size or wrong
material.

SEWING INSPECTION

Stitching Defects
Needle damage
Skipped stitch
Thread breaks
Seam pucker
Wrong stitch density
Uneven stitch
Staggered stitch
Improperly formed stitch

Skip stitches
Improper threading.
Poor clamping or insufficient
pressure (flagging).
The needle needs replacing.
Wrong size needle.
Wrong type of needle for the
material.
Lubrication.
Wrong thread for the
application.
Poor quality thread.
Needle size and thread weight
are mismatched.
Worn thread guides, paths or
eyelets