FASHION AS A FORM OF ARTISTIC

AND CREATIVE EXPRESSION

By Surabhi Dalela & Roopali Rawat
Foundation
Group B,C & E

Surabhi & Roopali

We will be discussing the

work of designers like :

MISSONI
MANISH ARORA
JOHN GALLIANO
RIE KAWAKUBO
ELLEY KISIMOTO
MICHAEL ARAM
ISSEY MIYAKE
Surabhi & Roopali

MISSONI
It is a family run company & have been in the forefront of
Italian fashion since husband Tai & wife Rosita Missoni
started creating their innovative & unconventional knits in
their home in 1963.
Today they continue to impress with its colorful creations,
elegant eveningwear, knit cardigans, accessories &
swimwear.
All under the creative leadership of their daughter Angela
Missoni who continues to inject renewed energy into the
label designs

Surabhi & Roopali

HISTORY MISSONI
Missoni was born in 1921.

His father, was an Italian sea captain and mother, was a

dalmatian-Italian noblewoman.

Before WWII he was an international athlete, but spent most of

the war as a POW(prisioner of war) in Egypt. After the war he set
up a workshop with his friend Giorgio Oberweger, making wool
track-suits. His "Venjulia" tracksuits were adopted by the Italian
team at the 1948 Olympics in London, and Tai himself qualified for
the final.

He married Rosita daughter of a family of shawl makers in April

1953, and set up a small knitwear workshop in Gallarate, not far
from Rosita's home village.

In 1958 they presented in Milan their first collection, called

Surabhi & Roopali
Milano-Simpathy, which was
the first to bear the Missoni label.4

With their designs being published in Vogue magazine, they

opened their first boutique inside Bloomingdales.

In April 1967, when they were invited to a show in Florence.

Rosita told the models to remove their bras, supposedly
because they were the wrong colour and showed through the
thin lam blouses.The material became transparent under the
lights and caused a sensation. The Missonis were not invited
back the following year, but the business went from strength
to strength

The early 1970s saw Missoni reach the peak of their influence
in the fashion world. Tai Missoni then became more interested
in other projects, everything from designing costumes, to
designing carpets and tapestries.

Rosita handed over the fashion business to her daughter

Angela in 1998. Rosita now is responsible for overseeing the
design of all home projects.
Surabhi & Roopali

STYLE

Missoni knitwear is known for its multitude of

patterns such as stripes, geometrics, and abstract
florals, in a kaleidoscope of colours.

They are also known for the liberal use of many

different fabrics such as wool, cotton, linen, rayon
and silk.

Styles and cuts are simple with most of the

garments having layering as their main feature.

Surabhi & Roopali

BRAND

Aside from the main Missoni line, the company has diversified
into a variety of luxury goods.

M Missoni is a less expensive line introduced in 1998,

manufactured and distributed by Marzotto (now Valentino Fashion
Group ). It has achieved remarkable success in being able to reach
a larger number of consumers and is now being sold at premier
department and specialty stores across the world.

The Missoni Home collection has its roots in furnishing fabrics

produced in 1981 in collaboration with Rosita's family firm.

In November 2005, Missoni and the Rezidor Hotel Group signed an

agreement to create Hotel Missoni, a lifestyle hotel chain, with
plans to have 30 hotels open or in development by 2012.

Surabhi & Roopali

COLLECTIONS

Surabhi & Roopali

Surabhi & Roopali

Use of vibrant colors in geometrical patterns

Surabhi & Roopali

10

Surabhi & Roopali

Geometrical patterns & textures in knits

11

Surabhi & Roopali

12

MENS WEAR COLLECTION

Surabhi & Roopali

13

Missoni Home

Surabhi & Roopali

14

CALEDIOSCOPIO

Surabhi & Roopali

15

JOHN GALLIANO
The epitome of style and fashion,
British fashion designer John
Galliano
.
He is a well-known name in the list
of French haute couture
women's wear designers. His
collection has been the pride of
many fashion extravaganzas
especially the magnificent wedding
dresses.
Fashion designer John Galliano
has the talent of taking people into
the fantasy world of fashion and
then presenting them glimpses of
real artistic styles.
Surabhi & Roopali

16

History

1960 Juan Carlos Antonio Galliano is born in Gibraltar.

His journey of fashion designing started with his admission in St

Martins School of Art.
In the initial stage of setting career path, he started off as an
assistant tailor at the National Theatre.
He climbed his first ladder to success with the exhibiting of his
maiden collection at the London Fashion Week.
Subsequently, he launched his attire collection in the label named
after him.
In 1988, he was awarded the title 'Designer of the Year'
It was through the partnership of vogue editor that Galliano received
the financial backing and high society stamp.
In one of his collections, high profile models like Kate Moss, Helena
Christensen, Naomi Campbell and Linda Evangelista, had come & had
waived their usual couture appearance fees.
High profile clients attendance at the presentation included Madonna.
Fashion critics noted that his work moved away from traditional forms
of pret-a-porter and becoming much more like haute couture,
attracting a younger, more fashion aware customer.

Surabhi & Roopali

17

Then there were some ups and downs in his

life. He had to witness severe financial crisis with
the withdrawal of financial assistance by Peder
Bertelsen.
In July 1995, he was appointed as the designer
of Givenchy by Bernard Arnault owner of luxury
goods conglomerate, thus becoming the first
British designer to head a French haute
couture house.
Less than two years later, Givenchy moved
Galliano to Christian Dior
Currently, between his own label and Dior,
Galliano produces six couture and ready-to-wear
collections a year and a new mid-season range
under his own name "G Galliano

Surabhi & Roopali

18

Inspirations: He has been quoted as identifying his love of theatre and femininity
as central to his creations and went as far as recreating some of
Dior's period clothing for Madonna in the film Evita.
Style:
He has a bold theatrical style of
designing, which included extensive
usage of vibrant bold & flashy colors
Usage of head hears, masks & face
paint was commonly used in his
shows.
Even the make up & hairdos of the models
in the show is loud & theatrical

Expensive fabrics & flamboyant

styles

Surabhi & Roopali

19

Surabhi & Roopali

20

Surabhi & Roopali

21

Flamboyant, theatrical accessories in

brilliant colors
Surabhi & Roopali

22

Surabhi & Roopali

23

Elaborate head gears

Surabhi & Roopali

24

MANISH ARORA

Surabhi & Roopali

25

HISTORY

Manish Arora is an Indian fashion designer based in New

Delhi.

Born and brought up in Mumbai, Manish was studying to

graduate in Commerce, when he decided to change his
career path, and applied for National Institute of Fashion
Technology in New Delhi and passed out in in 1994, after
winning the Best Student Award

Manish Arora is regarded as "the John Galliano of India"

Surabhi & Roopali

26

CAREER & ACHIEVEMENTS

Today his label is available in 84 stores worldwide, and for the last five years he
has collaborated with Reebok to design a collection of shoes under the brand
Fish Fry for Reebok.

In 1997 Manish Arora launched his label "Manish Arora" and started retailing in
India.
In 2000, Manish represented India at the first ever India Fashion Week held in
New Delhi.

The following year Manish launched his second label, "Fish Fry", and showed
this collection in six leading cities in India
During 2002 he opened his first flagship store, Manish Arora Fish Fry, in New
Delhi and in 2003 opened his second flagship store in Mumbai.

During 2004 he was awarded the Best Women's Prt Designer at the first ever
Indian Fashion Awards' 2004 held in Bombay

Following year Manish participated in the Miami Fashion Week in May 2005
where he was presented with the designer's choice for Best Collection Award.

He received an overwhelming response from the press as well as the buyers.

at the London Fashion Week in September 2005
Surabhi & Roopali

27

Style & Inspiration

He is known for a rich palette of psychedelic colours and

kitsch motifs, in garments that combine traditional Indian
crafts like embroidery, appliqu and beading with Western
silhouettes.

Inspiration is from the diversity if India.

Styles are bold/loud & theatrical at times.

Extensive usage of headgears, masks & bold makeup.

Mix & match of a variety of fabric textures, colors & Indian

motifs like Om, Indian god & Godesses.

Have also used animal prints like peacock, tiger, butterflies

etc.
Surabhi & Roopali

28

Surabhi & Roopali

29

Surabhi & Roopali

30

Masks & makeup

Surabhi & Roopali

31

Butterfly & peacock

being his favourite motif

Surabhi & Roopali

32

MOTIFS INSPIRED FORM ANIMALS

Surabhi & Roopali

33

Surabhi & Roopali

34

Surabhi & Roopali

35

Surabhi & Roopali

36

CIRCUS COLLECTION

Surabhi & Roopali

37

Surabhi & Roopali

38

Also has his own brand of eyewear

Surabhi & Roopali

39

Campaigns for Reebok Fish Fry

Surabhi & Roopali

40

SHOES & WATCHES

Surabhi & Roopali

41

Michael Aram

Michael Aram is an American born artist who

works primarily in metal.
After studying fine art and living as an artist in
New York in the late 1980's, Aram came to India
where he discovered rich metalworking traditions.

Inspired to work with craftsmen whose skills he felt were greatly

untapped, Aram turned his creative energies towards craft based
design, setting up a home and workshop in New Delhi.

Aram makes each piece of art by hand, using age-old techniques,

Whether in his narrative and figurative "signature" collection, or in
his more contemporary 'studio' line, each piece is entirely
handmade with no two examples ever exactly the same.

Surabhi & Roopali

42

His designs cater to a home contemporary as well as

classical interiors.

His work reflects humanity through the directness of the

handmade process, as each piece is made using age old
traditional techniques. The artisan nature of the work
imbues it with a soulful quality and an energy, which
reflects the hand of the maker.

Bridging the gap between the artist and artisan is a

hallmark of Michael Aram's work. Appropriately, in Hindi,
"aram" means "gently, with peace, with love and care".
Aram succeeds in making high quality work, which is as
much a personal statement, as its appeal is universal.

Surabhi & Roopali

43

STYLE & INSPIRATIONS

His range is mosty inspired by nature& organic shapes.

Arams Coral Reef Collection is no exception. He takes its inspiration from

the mystical and serene symbolism associated with aquatic imagery. Items
from the collectionincluding trays, bowls, candleholders and servers
evoke the beauty of the ocean while reflecting its fragile nature.
As a partner in SeaWebs Too Precious to Wear campaign, Aram has
donated some of these pieces to SeaWeb for display to raise awareness of
the threats to corals.

He is enviornmental friendly & mostly used the scraps of the metals & metal
alloys to do his work.

His Signature Collection, including boneware serving pieces have been

described as highly artistic, narrative and nature inspired.
The Indian ethnicity of each design brings pause and regard to the
discerning eye.

Michael Aram has truly evolved from a fine arts artist to a soulful artisan.

Surabhi & Roopali

44

RANGE

The objects range from tableware to

furniture, both are sold in galleries and
specialty stores worldwide.

Range consists of collections which are theme based (again

related with nature), serving & Tabletops, cocktail
accessories, gifts, decorative, candles, knobs & pull &
furniture & lighting

Aram's is comfortable working on private commissions, one

of a kind piece for gallery shows, or pieces that are
affordable to a wider audience.

Surabhi & Roopali

45

Coral Collections

Surabhi & Roopali

46

Design elements inspired from nature

Surabhi & Roopali

47

Surabhi & Roopali

48

Surabhi & Roopali

49

Surabhi & Roopali

50

One of his studios

Surabhi & Roopali

51

RIE KAWAKUBO

Rei KawakubO born 11th October 1942 in Tokyo) is a

Japanese fashion designer

She is untrained as a fashion designer, but studied fine arts

and literature at Keio University she conveyed her ideas
verbally to the tailors & patternmakers. After graduation,
Kawakubo worked in a textile company and began working as
a freelance stylist in 1967.

In 1973, she established her own company, Comme des

Garons Co. Ltd in Tokyo and opened up her first boutique
in Tokyo in 1975.

Starting out with women's clothes, Kawakubo added a men's

line in 1978. Three years later, she started presenting her
fashion lines in Paris each season, opening up a boutique in
Paris in 1982.
Surabhi & Roopali

52

Rie is also greatly involved in graphic design,

advertising and shop interiors believing that all these
things are a part of one vision and are inextricably linked.
Her Aoyama, Tokyo store is known for its sloping glass
facade decorated with blue dots.

Rie published her own bi-annual magazine, 'Six

(standing for 'sixth sense'), in the early 1990s. It featured
very little text and consisted mainly for photographs and
images that she deemed inspiring. In 1996 Rei was
guest editor of the high art publication Visionaire.

Rie is known to be quite reclusive and media shy, preferring her

innovative creations to speak for themselves. Her designs have
inspired many other late designers like the Belgian Martin Margiela
and Ann Demeulemeester, as well as Austrian designer Helmut Lang..

Kawakubo created the 2008 autumn "guest designer" collection at

H&M, designing men's, women's & some children's clothing & a unisex
perfume.

Surabhi & Roopali

53

Her Label

Her label Comme des Garons,

French for "like boys", is a Japanese
fashion label.

Comme des Garons has a dozen boutiques and

approximately 200 vendors around the world, with flagship
stores in Aoyama, Tokyo's high fashion district, as well as
Place Vendme in Paris.

Comme des Garcons specializes in anti-fashion, austere,

sometimes deconstructed garments, sometimes lacking a
sleeve or other component.
Surabhi & Roopali

54

Style

During the 1980s, her garments were primarily in black, dark grey or white.

The materials were often draped around the body and featured frayed, unfinished edges
along with holes and a general asymmetrical shape .

She created an uproar at her debut Paris fashion show where journalists labeled her
clothes 'Hiroshima chic' for her use of dark colors particularly black which was not popular
at that time. It also refused to obey accepted notions of silhouette and bodyline, with
lumps protruding to create dramatic and innovative designs.

Since the late 1980s her colour palette has grown brighter.

kawakubo's clothes are architectonic or sculptural,concentrating on structure .

upside-down pockets, de-emphasized shoulders and extra-long sleeves...holes in sweaters

& in the bodices of evening dresses. jackets are dismantled and turned inside-out or put
together in new ways.

The inside of a cardigan becomes the outside with the bumpy texture of knitted roses
close to the body.

Surabhi & Roopali

55

Achievement

kawakubo won the mainichi fashion grand prize in 1983

and was honored by the fashion institute of technology
in 1987 as one of the leading women in 20th-century design.
while kawakubo is best known for her fashion design,or
'clothes-making' as she would probably prefer to call it,
her artistic vision encompasses many other areas of design,
from graphics to packaging,
to costume and exhibition design, to furniture,and to the
architecture of her retail spaces.

Her academic background is perhaps behind her rather

cerebral approach to design and she has worked with dance
groups and wide range of photographers.

Surabhi & Roopali

56

Surabhi & Roopali

57

Surabhi & Roopali

58

Surabhi & Roopali

59

Surabhi & Roopali

60

Surabhi & Roopali

61

Surabhi & Roopali

62

Surabhi & Roopali

63

ISSEY MIYAKE

Issey Miyake born in Hiroshima, Japan in April 1938 is

a Japanese fashion designer. He is known for his
technology-driven clothing designs, exhibitions
and fragrances.

As a seven year-old, he witnessed and survived the nuclear bomb

dropped on Hiroshima on August 6, 1945.

He studied graphic design at the Tama Art University in Tokyo,

graduating in 1964. He then worked in Paris and New York. Returning to
Tokyo in 1970, he found the Miyake Design Studio.

He had a long friendship with Austrian-born pottery artist Dame Lucie

Rie. She taught him her substantial collection of ceramic and porcelain
buttons, which he integrated into his designs and presented them in
new collections.

In 1994 and 1999, Miyake turned over the design of the men's and
women's collections respectively, to his associate, so that he could
return to research full-time.
Surabhi & Roopali

64

BRANDS & COLLECTIONS

Mr. Miyake "oversees the overall direction of all lines created by his company", even
though the individual collections have been designed by his staff since his 'retirement'
from the fashion world in 1997.
Issey Miyake - main collection line, subdivided into men (since 1978/85) and women
(since 1971) collections.
Issey Miyake Fte - colorful women's line that "draws on the technological
innovations of Pleats Please" (Fte means 'celebration' in French) (since 2004)
Pleats Please Issey Miyake - polyester jersey garments for men that are first "cut
and sewn and then pleated (normally, fabric is first pleated and then cut and sewn
[.."to permanently retain washboard rows of horizontal, vertical or diagonal knife-edge
pleats." (since 1989/93)
HaaT - women's line, designed by Miyake's former textile designer, Makiko Minagawa.
HaaT means 'village market' in Sanskrit, the word sound similar to 'heart' in English.
(since 2000).
A-POC - custom-collection for men and women. Tubes of fabric are machine-processed
and can be cut into various shapes by the consumer. A-POC is an acronym of 'a piece
of cloth',(since 1997)
me Issey Miyake - line of "exclusive one-sized shirts that stretch to fit the wearer"
that are sold in plastic tube, named Cauliflower for the non-Asian market (since 2001)
Issey Miyake Watches - men's and women's watches
Issey Miyake Parfums - line of fragrances for men and women, see below

Surabhi & Roopali

65

PLEATS PLEASE

Surabhi & Roopali

66

Pleats Please

In the late '80s, he began to experiment with new methods

of pleating that would allow both flexibility of movement for
the wearer as well as ease of care and production.

This eventually resulted in a new technique called garment

pleating in 1993's. The garments are cut and sewn first,
then sandwiched between layers of paper and fed into a
heat press, where they are pleated. The fabric's 'memory'
holds the pleats and when the garments are liberated from
their paper cocoon, they are ready-to wear.

Surabhi & Roopali

67

Surabhi & Roopali

68

Surabhi & Roopali

69

Surabhi & Roopali

70

Surabhi & Roopali

71

A PIECE OF CLOTH (APOC)

Surabhi & Roopali

72

A-POC (A Piece Of Cloth)

what is 'a-poc' ?
'a-poc' is based upon miyake's first design concept, it is a new
and unique suggestion for everyday life. It is made using an
industrial knitting or weaving machine programed by a computer .

This process creates continuous tubes of fabric within which lie

both shape and pattern. The customer cuts sleeves and skirts
exactly to the length they wants.

'a-poc' is made in a sequence in which thread literally goes into a

machine and re-emerges as a piece of clothing, an accessory, or
even a chair. This interactive new method not only reduces
leftover fabric but also permits the wearers to participate in the
final step of the design of their clothing: they determine the final
shape of the product. Mass production and custom-made clothing.

Surabhi & Roopali

73

Surabhi & Roopali

74

Surabhi & Roopali

75

Perfumes & Watches

Surabhi & Roopali

76

ELEY KISHIMOTO

Eley Kishimoto, is a global British fashion and design

company with headquarters in London.

Founded in the early 1990's by Mark Eley and Wakako Kishimoto,

the company is primarily known for its print design.

The principle commercial activity of the company is womenswear

fashion and accessories & is famous for its print design .

Eley Kishimoto established its reputation within the fashion

industry through work with design houses such as Louis Vuitton,
Marc Jacobs, Alexander McQueen.

The company has also created numerous products to display their

print designs, such as wallpaper, furniture and furnishing fabrics,
glassware and crockery.
Surabhi & Roopali

77

In the mid 1990's the duo created their

first women swear collection and exhibit a
catwalk collection each season at London
Fashion week.

The company has also created numerous

products to display their print designs,
such as wallpaper, furniture and furnishing
fabrics, glassware and crockery. The
company also operates in areas usually
ignored by fashion designers including the
automotive industry, architecture,
phone/computer technology and
packaging, and artist and gallery
collaborations.

In 2008 Mark Eley and Wakako Kishimoto

were appointed as creative directors of
French based fashion house Cacharel.
Surabhi & Roopali

78

STYLE
Warm & Bright Colors

Geometrical & Illusionistic patterns

eg:- checkered or diamond shaped print
Having a graded look
Extensive usage of Stockings of
different type.

Animal prints on stockings & garments

style & cut of the garments are simple

Surabhi & Roopali

79

Surabhi & Roopali

80

Surabhi & Roopali

81

Surabhi & Roopali

82

Surabhi & Roopali

83

Surabhi & Roopali

84

Surabhi & Roopali

85