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RENAULT 4
1.6LT 16V
Now we install the injector itself. This is simply a run-of-the-mill cold start
injector out of a junkyard Saab; it differs from normal injectors in that it
doesn't pulse--it's either flowing constantly (on) or not at all (off). This is the
style of injector you must use. Normal "pulsing" injectors will not supply a
constant fuel flow and the resulting sporadic fuel delivery will cause
detonation and destroy your engine. In your metal intercooler pipe, drill a
hole which is barely larger than the injector's nozzle--six inches in front of
the throttle body is ideal. Temporarily put the injector in place, use its flange
to mark where the screw holes go, then remove the injector and drill those
holes.
Once the holes are ready and the pipe has been thoroughly cleaned of metal
shavings, place a half-inch piece of 5/16" fuel hose over the tip of the
injector and install it permanently--the small piece of hose will compress and
conform to the shape of the pipe making an airtight seal. Sheet metal
screws will do the job perfectly; I even went so far as to add a very small
dab of RTV for these screws to ensure a good seal but this is overkill so long
as you don't drill holes which are too big for the screws. Now that the
injector is mounted, plumb in the fuel hose from the 3/16" barb of the brass
tee.
Get a GRAINGER valve, (stock # 5Z763-3) and modify as follows: First take the
stock valve (top) and unscrew it. (bottom)
Then get a "tee", and clip off the center barb
Drill out the hole in the Grainger valve to just the same size as the tee, for a snug
fit.
Grind the metal rough around the hole and clean it with alcohol.
Clean your own skin oil off of the tee with alcohol. Mix up 2-part epoxy, and glue
the tee in.
Let dry overnight.
Assemble the valve with the check ball on the OTHER side of the spring, not the
way it came
Now take the modified valve and put together a short piece of vacuum line and a
restrictor.
WARNING!! The restrictor orifice must be .029" to .050" A small orifice, like your
stock one, will cause the "check engine' light to come on.
DONE!
Tape everything carefully up and you should be good to go!
Part
II:installation,
the pneumatic
hardware
After
screw the
knurled knob almost all the way
Fooling
map
diodes15orpsi.
bleeds
in, and the
the car
willsensor
still cutwith
out around
Loosen- DIALING
the lock- IN the
ring, andunit
unscrew the knurled brass knob a half-turn. Reinstalled
tighten the lock-ring. After you do this a couple of times, you'll
notice that the cut out point gets higher. You can stop at 16,
or 18, or whatever you want. BUT, the higher you go, the
more fuel you have to add.
Now all that's left is making it all work. Gradually raise your
boost level one pound at a time; make sure your fuel gauge
says all is well. If you hit overboost cutout, adjust your raiser
very slightly (half a turn at a time) and try again. After a bit of
experimentation you should get dialed in to your target boost
setup. Once you do, be sure to read your spark plugs to
confirm everything is okay. If it is, you're all set!
THIS INFORMATION IS GIVEN "AS IS" AND WITHOUT ANY
WARRANTIES WHETHER EXPRESSED OR IMPLIED. NO
WARRANTY OF FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE IS
OFFERED. BY USING THIS INFORMATION YOU RELEASE THE
AUTHOR FROM ANY LIABILITY WHATSOEVER.