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5 & 6 (4-.

RENAULT 4
1.6LT 16V

RENAULT 4 1.6LT 16V


Part I: the fuel hardware

The first thing you'll need to do is make a custom


brass tee to send some fuel over to the injector. I
went to a local hardware store and bought a tee
with three 1/4" threaded fittings, plus two 5/16"
barbs and one 3/16" barb. I put some teflon tape
on the threads and screwed it together nice and
tight. (Be sure to put the right barbs in the right
place!) Once together it is installed in the fuel
hose which feeds your fuel rail--it's the hose that
is 5/16" in size. Be sure to use clamps which are
in good condition; we don't want any leaks

RENAULT 4 1.6LT 16V


Part I: the fuel hardware

Now we install the injector itself. This is simply a run-of-the-mill cold start
injector out of a junkyard Saab; it differs from normal injectors in that it
doesn't pulse--it's either flowing constantly (on) or not at all (off). This is the
style of injector you must use. Normal "pulsing" injectors will not supply a
constant fuel flow and the resulting sporadic fuel delivery will cause
detonation and destroy your engine. In your metal intercooler pipe, drill a
hole which is barely larger than the injector's nozzle--six inches in front of
the throttle body is ideal. Temporarily put the injector in place, use its flange
to mark where the screw holes go, then remove the injector and drill those
holes.
Once the holes are ready and the pipe has been thoroughly cleaned of metal
shavings, place a half-inch piece of 5/16" fuel hose over the tip of the
injector and install it permanently--the small piece of hose will compress and
conform to the shape of the pipe making an airtight seal. Sheet metal
screws will do the job perfectly; I even went so far as to add a very small
dab of RTV for these screws to ensure a good seal but this is overkill so long
as you don't drill holes which are too big for the screws. Now that the
injector is mounted, plumb in the fuel hose from the 3/16" barb of the brass
tee.

RENAULT 4 1.6LT 16V


Part II: the pneumatic hardware

You need to mount a pressure switch to control the injector. (Go to


NAPA and ask for NAPA part# 7011577. This corresponds to a Hobbs
pressure switch #76052 which is a single circuit 5000 series normally
open 2 terminal switch. It is factory set to 15 psi but adjustable 14-24
psi. NOTE: the switch pictured above is not the NAPA switch--it's what I
had lying around. The NAPA switch is pictured below.) I decided to tee
into the line for the fuel pressure regulator; I felt this was safe since
there will be no bleed-off of pressure. Feel free to mount your switch
wherever you like.
Speaking of pneumatics, you don't install an extra injector unless
you're going to run more than 14 psi of boost. And if you're going over
14 pounds then you'll also need to trick the MAP sensor. My solution
was to install a cutout raiser (though you could just as effectively
install a diode--read about both methods here). I did make one
deviation, though: rather than epoxy a plastic tee onto the valve, I
bought a brass barb which screws onto the valve. This way I'd have no
chance of messing up the machined seat for the brass ball inside the
valve. See the difference below--Gus shows his way on the left while
my method is on the right.

RENAULT 4 1.6LT 16V


Part II: the pneumatic hardware
Fooling the map sensor with diodes or bleeds

Warning! You must have a non-computer controlled wastegate to take advantage


of this modification. Any boost over stock levels will also not be seen by the
computer and extra fuel will have to be added.
Using a diode is an electrical way of fooling the computer from seeing over a 14
psi of boost. The computer "sees" boost by providing the map sensor with a 5 volt
signal and based on the amount of pressure (or vacuum) the sensor is reading
returns a voltage between 1. to 5. volts. 2.5v is the center point more or less, any
voltage below that is vacuum and any voltage above that is boost.
Now depending on your computer you will need either a 4.3v or a 4.7v zener
diode in the 1/2 watt to 1 watt range. Zener diodes work by "dumping" any extra
voltage over their rating to ground; thus preventing the computer from seeing
over the diodes rated voltage!
If you have a stock computer, you must use the 4.3v diode. If you use the 4.7v the
boost reading the computer still sees is higher than the programmed boost
"target" and you will still get overboost shutdown. You must have a MP computer
to use the 4.7v diode, they have a higher "target" boost voltage and won't shut
down at the 4.7v map sensor reading.
Why not just use the 4.3v diode for everything you say? Well remember we are
blinding the computer to what it sees over this target voltage and it won't be
supplying extra fuel. The difference between 4.3 and 4.7 might be slight, but it's a
little extra fuel and you should take advantage of it if you can.

RENAULT 4 1.6LT 16V


Part II: the pneumatic hardware
Fooling the map sensor with diodes or bleeds

Now to hook the diode up you will need:


A. digital volt meter
B. wire strippers or razor knife (be careful)
C. soldering gun/iron and solder
D. electrical tape
There are three wires coming out of your map sensor; sensor ground, 5v in and
sensor voltage out (between 1 and 5 volts remember?) With the key on, engine
off probe the wires for voltage and mark what you find. The one with NO voltage is
ground, and the one with less than 5v is sensor output- we will be using these two
wires for our modification.
Install the diode as shown in the above diagram, be careful take your time and
make sure you don't use to much heat as this will damage the diode and it will not
function properly. (A small electronics soldering heatsink isn't a bad idea) its
important to note which way the stripe on the diode goes! If you get it backwards,
your car will not run correctly!
Tape everything carefully up and you should be good to go!

RENAULT 4 1.6LT 16V


Part II: the pneumatic hardware
Fooling the map sensor with diodes or bleeds

Get a GRAINGER valve, (stock # 5Z763-3) and modify as follows: First take the
stock valve (top) and unscrew it. (bottom)
Then get a "tee", and clip off the center barb
Drill out the hole in the Grainger valve to just the same size as the tee, for a snug
fit.
Grind the metal rough around the hole and clean it with alcohol.
Clean your own skin oil off of the tee with alcohol. Mix up 2-part epoxy, and glue
the tee in.
Let dry overnight.
Assemble the valve with the check ball on the OTHER side of the spring, not the
way it came
Now take the modified valve and put together a short piece of vacuum line and a
restrictor.
WARNING!! The restrictor orifice must be .029" to .050" A small orifice, like your
stock one, will cause the "check engine' light to come on.
DONE!
Tape everything carefully up and you should be good to go!

RENAULT 4 1.6LT 16V

Part II: the pneumatic hardware


Fooling the map sensor with diodes or bleeds - INSTALLING the cut out
raiser

If you have the old style logic-module-in-the-kick panel setup, then


you can put this device in the car, or underhood.
In the car: splice into the vacuum line that goes to the MAP sensor logic module. Pull back the passenger's side footwall carpeting, or
remove the kick-panel. Splice in the cut out raiser with the white nylon
connector facing the MAP sensor.
Under the hood: Splice into the vacuum line close to where the
vacuum line for the MAP goes through the firewall. Splice into the line
near the firewall with the white nipple facing the firewall, and the
brass nipple towards the barometric solenoid.

RENAULT 4 1.6LT 16V

Part II: the pneumatic hardware


Fooling the map sensor with diodes or bleeds - INSTALLING the cut out
raiser

If you have the newer style barometric solenoid/MAP sensor


together under the hood, think of the baro/MAP combo as one
device. Cut the vacuum line close to the baro/MAP sensor,
and splice in the cutout raiser device with the brass nipple
towards the intake manifold, and the white nylon nipple
towards the MAP sensor/barometric solenoid combination.

RENAULT 4 1.6LT 16V

Part
II:installation,
the pneumatic
hardware
After
screw the
knurled knob almost all the way
Fooling
map
diodes15orpsi.
bleeds
in, and the
the car
willsensor
still cutwith
out around
Loosen- DIALING
the lock- IN the
ring, andunit
unscrew the knurled brass knob a half-turn. Reinstalled
tighten the lock-ring. After you do this a couple of times, you'll
notice that the cut out point gets higher. You can stop at 16,
or 18, or whatever you want. BUT, the higher you go, the
more fuel you have to add.

Set it as low as you can get away with, because your


computer will give you NO MORE fuel past 14.7 psi. The
computer will believe that you're never going over 14.7 psi!
If you have a rich-lean gauge, back off when you get less than
9 lights on the gauge. ($30 plus "handling" from Summit 1800-230-3030; Intellitronix air-fuel ratio gauge ) If you have no
gauge, run a wire from your O2 sensor wire (the one that
reads .1V-.9V at warm idle, bouncing up and down) through
the firewall, into the car.
Hook the O2 wire to the red probe of a digital voltmeter; hook
the black probe of the digital voltmeter to a clean ground.
When you floor it, you want to see .87V to .97V. Less than .
87V means you're not safely rich. Back off, and add fuel. you
can add fuel by raising the fuel pressure, adding an extra
injector, or switching to slightly larger injectors. If you don't
add any fuel, don't run high boost! I can usually run 15 psi on
the stock setup.
1 pound per square inch = 0.0689475729 bar
15 pound per square inch = 1.034212 bar
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/izl-m7008

RENAULT 4 1.6LT 16V


Part III: wiring it all in

Now all you need to do is wire everything together. The


injector has two wires and polarity does not matter--feed 12v
to one and ground to the other and you'll get fuel. I attached
one wire to a constant 12v source; this line contains a 1-amp
inline fuse for safety.
I then connected the other injector wire to one of the
terminals of the pressure switch. The switch's second terminal
is connected to ground. When the threshold pressure is
reached the switch closes and sends ground to the injector,
turning it on. Once pressure falls below the threshold, the
switch opens and the injector shuts off.
For neatness sake, I used as much of the injector's wiring as I
could. When you remove a cold start injector from a junkyard
car try to cut off as much of the harness as you can--you'll
appreciate it later.

RENAULT 4 1.6LT 16V


Part IV: dialing it all in!

Now all that's left is making it all work. Gradually raise your
boost level one pound at a time; make sure your fuel gauge
says all is well. If you hit overboost cutout, adjust your raiser
very slightly (half a turn at a time) and try again. After a bit of
experimentation you should get dialed in to your target boost
setup. Once you do, be sure to read your spark plugs to
confirm everything is okay. If it is, you're all set!
THIS INFORMATION IS GIVEN "AS IS" AND WITHOUT ANY
WARRANTIES WHETHER EXPRESSED OR IMPLIED. NO
WARRANTY OF FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE IS
OFFERED. BY USING THIS INFORMATION YOU RELEASE THE
AUTHOR FROM ANY LIABILITY WHATSOEVER.

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