Apparel Quality

Management
Presentation on :
Quality Manual of
Arvind Mills Ltd., Denim Division, Mysore
Road, India
PRESENTED TO :
MS. PRIYADARSHINI

PRESENTED BY :
K.DIVYA PRAKAASH(08)
MD. SHAD ANWAR(09)

DEPARTMENT OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, SEMESTER - V

Introduction
It

is the objective of any manufacturer to offer

his customers first quality merchandise. The
purpose of the quality control program is to assist
manufacturers in meeting their high standards. In
addition quality control program can help them in
their operations quality control program, spot and
reject Defective items and more importantly pinpoint
production operations that need special attention
thereby reducing the future production failures. This
type of quality control provides a basis for
management decisions in the plant.
Quality is:
Fit for use
Conformance to requirements
When customer is satisfied and encouraged to buy
When it is defect free
When it has a long life
When it has good wear ability and wash ability
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Quality Control Systems

Quality control systems of the various
department within the industry are
enlisted
Quality
Quality
Quality
Quality
Quality
Quality

Control
Control
Control
Control
Control
Control

in
in
in
in
in
in

Fabric Inspection
the Testing Laboratory
Cutting Room
Sewing Room
Washing
Finishing
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1.FABRIC INSPECTION
Objective:

- To identify and mark fabric faults on the fabric

- Decision to cut the fabric lot or not
Guidelines

for Inspection:

- As soon as the fabric reaches the store, fabric

should be inspected. Fabric should be stored
in a clean moisture free environment
- A swatch of dimension as specified by the
laboratory has to be submitted to the
laboratory as soon as the fabric arrives so that
fabric is checked for performance standards
as per the requirements creased productivity
of the cutting department.
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FOUR POINT SYSTEM

In textile and garment trade extensively accepted system of

inspection is
THE FOUR POINT SYSTEM.
This system is very easy to understand and implement.
Standards obtained / achieved in this system have proved as acceptable
in garment manufacturing.

Hence this system is used for fabric checking :

i.
ii.
iii.

iv.

Usually we have to check 10% of the total fabric received.

In case this inspection passes we can accept the whole lot of
fabric
Whenever the first 10 % of the fabric gets failed, we have to
inspect entire quantity and then take a final decision on accepting
or rejecting a fabric.
However, wherever the requirement of fabric for an order quantity
is less than 1000 meters, in such cases entire quantity of fabric
should be used.

Woven

Fabric Defects:

Drawback
Dropped Pick
End out
Fly
Harness Break down
Knots
Mixed End
Mixed Filling
Slubs
Smash
Soiled Filling or End
Stop Mark
Thin place

2.LABORATORY
No

sooner than the fabric is received at ware

house, one meter length from every fabric
role received will be sent to Laboratory for
finding Dimensional Changes due to Style
wash & and shades evolved during Style
Wash.
Fabric Content and Weight are verified and
then following tests are conducted
Fabric package test
Garment package test

FABRIC PACKAGE TEST

Skew
Tensile Strength
Tearing Strength
Colour Fastness to Perspiration
Colour Fastness to Crocking
Colour Fastness to Water
Fabric Weight
pH ( Power of Hydrogen ) using pH meter
Stretch & Recovery ( Only for Stretch

Fabric )
Construction ( Visual)
Yarn Size

GARMENT PACKAGE TEST

Dimensional Stability to Home Laundering.

Appearance after Laundering
Tensile Strength
Attachment Strength
Seam Properties
Tearing Strength
CF to Accelerated Laundering
CF to crocking
Fabric Weight
Colour Fastness to Perspiration
Colour fastness to Water
Fibre Identification
pH Extract
Stretch & Recovery ( Only for Stretch Fabric )
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3.CUT ROOM QUALITY CHECK

Good

Sewing begins with good cutting. Bad

cutting will result in sewing defects, excessive
repairs and slowed production. The Quality
Control Inspector's responsibilities include
assisting the Cut Room Manager for taking
correct steps and corrective measures if
required.

Requirements

PO File with Tech Pack, before and wash specs,

Fabric shade band, shrinkage details, Marker /
Pattern details, Trim Cards QA Specifications,
Approved sample, Visual Quality standards, PP
meeting notes etc; are to be there in the section.
Display the items those are specified, on the
display board. Before the spreading of the fabric,
it should be relaxed ( Especially Stretch fabric )
and report to be maintained.
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SPREADING:

01. TABLE MARK:

The Inspector should check for these marks as the table is marked off. Allow 1/4" tolerance for
marking according to the marker splices marked by the tracer.
02. Marker Placement :
Marker should be placed on the spread with front edge on the marker edge:( 1/8" variance and 1/2"
allowance on the end placement.)

03. Edging:
After completion of the spread, check to see that straight edge from the marker line is within 1/4"
variance ( Wide or Narrow )
04.Ends:
After completion of the spread check , see that plies do not extend closer than 1/2" nor more than 1"
away from the marked end of the spread.
05.Splices:
After completion of the spread, check splice hem laps to see that both plies extend past the marked
splice by no less than 1/2" and no more than 11/2".
06.Narrow Goods:
After completion of the spread, check the far edge of the spread to see that all plies extend beyond
the marker line.
07.Leaning:
After completion of spread, check for leaning by standing a rule on the straight edge of the spread.
Check at least at three different places Tolerance is 1/4"
08.Tension:
Tension must be checked during spreading. This is very important especially on knit fabrics. Tension
can be recognised by the biased appearance of goods with a reasonable amount of tolerance.
09.Count:
Count must be checked after completion of spreading and before cutting. count must be made of all
plies at both ends.
10.Remnants:
Check to see that remnants are no longer than the shortest splice.

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CUTTING:

01.
Miscut:
Miscut measures the ability of the cutter to split the line.
Tolerance 1/8"

02.
Matching Plies:
Check top ply with the bottom ply. Tolerance 1/8"

03
.
Rugged Cutting:
This is a judgement defect. It is more important on critical
parts. If the part has to be recut, it is a defect.

04.
Notches:
Check the notch location by placing the pattern over the
top ply. Tolerance 1/8"

05.
Check Pattern:
Compare the pattern to marker paper to ensure that the
marker is correct
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FUSING

Before starting the fusing, it is necessary that

Parameters under which parts are to be fused should
be decided by which the fusing standards are obtained.
The Standard should usually be given by the interlining
supplier or in few cases buyer will suggest the standard
as well as the type of interlining to be used. Suggested
standard should be displayed near the fusing machine
with all the details.

Setting the Machine

Interlining Compatibility

Fusing Shrinkage

Regular Quality Check

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4.QUALITY IN SEWING FLOOR

Responsibility of Quality Assurance
Department in SEWING FLOOR can
be divided in to three stages
They are;
Pre Production Stage
In Line &
End Line

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Pre

Production:

It is nothing but preparing your self for the new style to be

sewn in the line /in the sewing floor.
Know the Style:
It is the responsibility of the roving QA that he studies the style
completely especially with reference to fabric, trims,
construction / required needle work.
Set the line for Production:
After the discussion / pre production meeting with the concerned
people of the line, it is the turn of the IE and Line Technician along
with the Supervisor to work out machine lay out and line plan so
that manufacturing of the garments are made easy to yield
maximum production with QUALITY.
Display :
i. Relevant details such as
ii. Line Plan / Machine Layout
iii. Tec pack / Construction details of the style
iv. Measurement Chart
v. Trim Card
vi. Approved Standard duly signed by QAM etc; are to be displayed at
the end table of the sewing line besides weekly and monthly
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Quality performance of the particular sewing line.

In Line Sewing
Before

starting the actual sewing, each operator

has to check the SPI of his machine.
At the time of starting of a new style, it is
necessary that QA discusses with IE and batch
technician about the machine layout, line plan
and sequence of operations.
Every operator before the start of sewing of the
particular part/operation, shall stitch a mock in
the same fabric and this mock shall be reviewed
by QA as well as the line supervisor.
Thus, the Roving QA has to move machine by
machine as the stitching operation continues till
the complete finished FIRST GARMENT of the
style comes out of the line. QA and Supervisor
shall review this FIRST GARMENT that has come
out for CONSTRUCTION and MEASUREMENT.

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End Line:
Stitched

garments from the sewing line are

received at END TABLE and these garments
are subjected for 100% inspection by Quality
Inspector at END Table.
For VISUAL, CONSTRUCTION and KEY
MEASUREMENTS.
Passed garments at this stage are AUDITED
at 2.5 AQL and on passing, moved to
WASHING SECTION.
Quality Failed Garments shall be returned to
sewing section for rectification and return.

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5.Quality Control System

in Washing
From Sewing Section, garments are
sent to Laundry for further
processing. In Denims / Jeans,
wash process is an integral part of
Garments.
In laundry, wash process is
divided in to two parts. They are
Dry Process and Wet Process.

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DRY PROCESS:
Hand Sanding
Laser Printing
Tacking / Tying
Resin Treatment
PP Spray
Whiskering (Moulding)
Damages /
Destruction
Laser Printing
Laser Printing is an electrostatic digital printing
process that rapidly produces high quality text
and graphics by passing laser beam over a
charged drum to define a differently charged
image. The Quality Checks are :
Size of the Print
Intensity of the Print
Print Placement
Back ground shade / intensity

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 Resin

Treatment

Resin Treatment gives value addition to garments. We have

been talking about Resin and its use in Denim Garments
Industry to create unique and vintage looks. This adds
value to Denim Garments and improves its salebility in
the market. During the process points of check are:
- Concentration of Resin Solution
( Both solute and solvent should be taken exactly as per
the given standard )
( Mixing to be made by a stirring machine )
- Quantity that is to be sprayed on a garment
- Size of Inflated Balloon on which the garments are hung
- Garment Rotation Time
- Curing Time

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Whiskering:
On Denims, whiskers / moulds / moustaches /
chevrons are nothing but the worn out lines
/impressions generated by natural wearing on
hips and thigh area. There are many designs
& patterns available for this purpose. The
activity is being carried out manually with the
help of sharp edge emery paper rolled and
pasted on fine wooden stick.
Quality Check Points during this process are

1) Size wise verification of pattern / mould with

respect to garment size
2) Position and placement
3) Intensity of the whiskering carried out

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 Hand

Scraping / Sanding:
Hand Sanding is generally being done in rigid
form of garments to get distress look.
Locations of scrapping can be front, thigh and
back seat or it can be overall / global
application as per standard.
Process check points of Hand Sanding are:

1) Selection of right numbered paper

depending on the
fabric strength and required intensity
2) Intensity
3) Placement

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Tacking

/ Tying:

It is a process which is being done by swift tag

machines with the help plastic or nylon tag pins on rigid
form of garment to get very heavy contrast ( rigid &
washed ) on waist band , bottom hem back pocket and
front pocket corners etc;. After washing completely
nylon tag must be removed before finishing.
Check points during the process are
1)

Tagging placement.

2)

Length of tag pin &

3)

Width of folding where tagged

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PP

Spray:

PP Spray is being done on denim garments to

achieve local abraded area to appear whiter
than background indigo colour shade. Check
points which need to be followed are :
1) Spray Gun Pressure
2) Width / Area of spray
3) Flow & way of spraying

Damages / Destruction:
This is one of the most popular
distressing effects currently used.
Destruction is an art which makes denim
look unique and used. Point of check are :
1) Size of the damage
2) Position and place of destruction

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QUALITY CONTROL DURING WET PROCESS

Development
Sampling
Bulk

DEVELOPMENT
It is advisable that the QA Department involve themselves right
from the Development Stage and during the development, it is
necessary that following factors are worked out and the record is
maintained in a Development Register.

Weight of the garment / load.

Water level / quantity of water required
Hardness of water used for the bath
pH value of water
Temperature of the bath
Timing / Duration under which bath is given to develop the sample
Type of bath ( Recipe / Chemicals used )
Quantity / Weight of chemicals use

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SAMPLING

During Proto sample making the standard

to be achieved is as that of the final
finished garment in Bulk Production.
Therefore from the Original
Development Register, the recipe shall
be worked out to meet the Final
Standard in Bulk. Hence, in process
activity for Proto shall be tracked back
to the Development.

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BULK

WASH:

The garments received for Bulk Wash are to be

checked / audited 100% for before wash stains,
damages, fabric defects and construction faults.
If found defective, garments are to be sent back
for rectification. It is also mandatory that washing
section shall receive the garments fabric lot /
shade wise only.
In Pilot Washing,
In FinalinWashing,
1)No. of garments
the bath
1)Shade
2)Unwanted streak marks
3)Measurements
4)Damages

2)Water level ( Quantity of water used for

the bath )
3)Hardness of water used for the bath
4)pH value of the water used for the bath
5)Temperature of the bath ( Under which
the bath shall run )
6)Timing ( Duration for which the bath
should run. and adjust the time regulator
accordingly )
7)Type of bath ( Recipe / Chemicals used
8)Quantity of Chemicals used for bath
( Quantity to be weighed and then mixed
with the solvent / water before pouring in to
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the bath drum )

6.FINISHING
DEPARTMENT
PO

file with Tech Pack etc; Wash

Standard, Approved Shade
Garments, Shrinkage
Details, Trim Cards, Fabric Test
Report, Garment Test Report, QA
Specifications,
Measurement spec, Approved
Sample, Visual Quality Standards,
PP Meeting notes,
Packing & Folding instructions are to
be there in the section.
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 Garment

received in Finishing Section for finishing has

to be recorded in an appropriate ledger mentioning PO
No., Buyer's name, size wise order quantity, size wise
receipts, wash type etc.
Any special instructions if available are to be displayed.
Display board should have approved Garment, Trim
Cards, Folding / Packing method, Fabric defect
standards ( marked with accepted / not accepted ),
wash standards, shade bands, Defect % as observed in
finishing section. Ironing standard to be available in
the section.
Standard requirement to be explained to all Ironing
operators like method of Ironing, Temperature control,
steam usage etc;

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CHECKING AREA
Inspection and Checking area to be provided with a minimum of
1200 Lux light level.
Whenever the lighting level decreases bulbs should be replaced.
The table tops should be white laminated. All relevant details as
specified are to be kept at the checking area.

VISUAL CHECK
All the garments are to be checked for Visual Defects related to
stitching, Fabric, Trims etc; Rejected garments during inspection
are to be rectified.

MEASUREMENT CHECK
All the Garments to undergo measurement checks at critical
points at a separate specified area.
Record of a minimum of 32 garments' measurements in every
style are to be recorded on daily basis or as specified by the
respective buyer.
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Garments passed through measurement check are to pass

through ironing section for garment pressing and folding.

GARMENT PRESSING & FOLDING:

In Ironing Section, Pressing Standard should be displayed on each of
the Pressing Table and Ironing operator should be explained and well
educated about the requirement of the Buyer with respect to Pressing
and Folding. Neatly pressed and folded garments then shall be sent to
Packing Section.

Garment Packing:
Folded Garments from Ironing section shall be passed through MD
Machine to ascertain that the garments are free from Metal
Contamination.
On receipt of the garments Packing Section shall segregate the
garments as under.

Color wise & Shade wise

Each Shade shall be further segregated in to different sizes.

Then Tagging of the garments shall take place. After Tagging,

garments shall be stored /kept separately as per Color, Shade and Size.
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THANK
YOU!!

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