Mesopotamia

History of Design &
Fashion -3
Ancient Middle EastMesopotamia 3500BC 300 BC

Department of Fashion Design
Semester 5
A compilation by Lavdeep Singh, Asst. Professor, Department of Fashion design, NIFT, Kangra.
Fertile Crescent
Often called as the Cradle of

Civilization.
How did two rivers alter the evolution of

human society and development?
The Paradox, the Western tradition/culture
actually began in the East.
A crescent shaped rich food-growing area in

the Middle East, a section of the world where
most of the land is too dry for farming.
A small portion of
Asia & Africa.
Present-day Iraq,
Iran, Israel and parts
of Egypt & the Nile
valley.
University of
Chicago
archaeologist James
Henry Breasted first
used the term Fertile
Crescent.
A compilation by Lavdeep Singh, Asst. Professor,
Department of Fashion design, NIFT, Kangra.
It is here thousands of years ago seeds of civilization were sown.

Mesopotamia the land between two

rivers
The first civilizations in the Middle East.

It was a part of Fertile Crescent.
Greeks called it, the region between Tigris &
Euphrates Rivers.
The word Mesopotamia originated from Greek
words mesos "middle + potamos "river,
which literally means land in the middle of rivers.
Main Mesopotamian civilizations
Sumerians 3500-2000 BC
Akkadians 2350- 2218 BC
Babylonians- 1894- 1595 BC
Assyrians- 1380- 612 BC
Persians550- 330 BC
Sumerians
Towns & Cities first developed in the
southern fertile parts of the region.
Agriculture and herding - produced
sufficient food establish permanent
residences-gradually developed complex
social organizations.
We now know this region as Sumer.
Sumerians, founders of the first cities in southern

Mesopotamia entered the region from the
northeast about 3500 B.C.
They discovered that this region was well suited
for agriculture & also domestication of animals.
Geographical Circumstances -Torrential rains and
flooding led the Sumerians to design the
drainage & irrigation system that controlled
the water level in the rivers and prevented floods
Revolutionized agriculture; it enabled

Sumerians to produce more food than they
actually required i.e. surplus.
New occupations developed-craftsmen,
religious leaders and government officials.
Specialization & Division of labour.
Society could accomplish more.
As the size and complexity of these
elements grew, cities developed giving rise
to the worlds first civilization called Sumer.
Agriculture
Trade
Sedentary
Life
Surplus
Creative
Expression
Weaving, Pottery,
etc.
Once the cloth manufacture, on however

small scale, had been established, the way
was open for the development of costume,
as we know it.
Invention of wheel, adapted from the

potters wheel.
They also invented socketed axe and plough,

which travelled to Black Sea and to Troy.
Cuneiform -Writing to records of their

activities, codify laws & transmit knowledge.
The Mesopotamian writing reflects their

capacity & inclination for abstraction.
The Egyptians hieroglyphs are pictures or pictorial

representations of alphabets, sounds or syllables, while
Mesopotamian cuneiform is more abstract.
Many Mesopotamian sculptures are also very

abstract whereas Egyptian sculptures are very
literal.
Social Structure
Ziggurat, the large temples acted as social cement
that bound, ruled and dominated the community &
around which the city grew.
Ziggurat which means "to build on a raised area"
were massive structures built in the ancient
Mesopotamian cities, having the form of a terraced
step pyramid of successively receding stories or
levels.
Mesopotamian society focused on serving the

temples, gods and the priests.
The Ziggurat, served as the central unit of

Mesopotamian
life and society.
Various excavated clay tablets depict that the temple

plans were drawn on scale on the clay tablets.
To build these temples Sumerians imported raw
material like stones, precious stones, timber, metal
for tools & weapons and gifts for the gods, which
spurred trade.
Trade gave rise to the independent merchant class.
The ever-travelling merchant class was the agent of
diffusion on different cultures.
The Tigris and the Euphrates - natural highways for

trade, migration of people & movement of armies.
Hence Mesopotamians were both soldiers & traders.
Their endless wars sparked technological innovations in
weapons and spurred social, cultural & economic
change.
Due to lack of natural barriers, foreign invaders
periodically invaded and influenced culture, design &
clothing.
Trade Mixed population

As a result, the hold of the temple on the city was
loosened and a secular king replaced the priests.
The king ruled in the name of god and this was the
first step towards the secular power.
The kings were regarded, as representatives of god
delegated to carry out his or her will. Each city-state
had a king who was also the war leader.
Wars
Wars meant winning over other city-states
and capturing their lands and expanding the
state and power.
This warfare eventually developed a
straightforward imperialism.
So over centuries we have series of empires
first dominated by Sumerian cities like Ur &
Lagash, then by cities further north like
Akkad, Babylon and eventually by Assyria
and Persia.
Social hierarchy
Priest
King
Merchant Class/Traders
Soldiers
Peasants/Craftsmen
Slaves
Priests
Headed the temples
Architects of these temples.
Maintained records and accounts of the
temple.
Sumerian believed these temples were
designed by gods themselves and revealed
in dreams to the priest.
This depicts Sumerian men, most probably

priests at the top, traders in the middle and
slaves at the bottom.
Relief work depicting Warriors

Warriors
The Akkadians
Akkadians resembled the Sumerian culture
but they differed in language and ethnicity.
They also developed agriculture based cities.
The Babylonians
Babylonians created a flourishing
organized society.
Under the rule of Hammurabi, the
king of Babylon, a code of law was
developed and written down.
They sold clothing and perfumes at
their stores.
The Assyrians
The Assyrians began conquering surrounding
areas and united Mesopotamia into one
enormous empire that encompassed the Taurus
mountains of modern day Turkey and portions of
Egypt.
To protect their territory they battled constantly
and they ruled brutally.
Assyrians built cities with large buildings and
statues.
The Persians
The Persian Empire united
approximately twenty different
societies, became known for its
efficiency and its kindness to its
citizens.
Under Persians rule products such as
clothing, money, and furniture were
made in vast quantity.
Mesopotamian textiles
A thriving textile or fabric industry existed in the
early civilizations of Mesopotamia
Textiles were used for domestic & trade purposes
and were also given as gifts to kings and queens.
Wool was the most common fabric used to make
clothing and shoes.
Looms were used for weaving.
Flax is occasionally mentioned in the ancient records, but

although fragments of linen have been found in
excavations.
Clothes, tapestries and curtains were made of wool.
Women often played an important role in producing
Mesopotamian textiles. They spun and weaved while men
did the dyeing and finishing.
Assyrians introduced soft cotton and silk later.
The surviving evidence

doesnt show color of
Mesopotamian fabric.
Appliques, embroidery,
and beads were used to
beautify garments.
Later a type of shell known as Maoris produced a

highly-prized dye called Tyrian purple.
Wrap skirts/Loin cloth- to wrap the rectangular

piece of fabric around the waist, thus making a
sarong.
Later another square of cloth was draped over the
shoulder and secured with a pin.
Assyrians, Egyptians, Greeks & Romans adapted
clothing of this nature.
Draped clothing mark of civilization.
Shift from skins

to fabric was not
simple or
sudden.
Statuettes & Bas
relief of ancient
Sumerians show
figures wearing
skirts of tufted
tissues.
Tufts became borders acting a

fringes.
Fringes were a common
element in Mesopotamian
clothing whether Sumerian,
Assyrian & Babylonian.
No gender differentiation in
clothing.
Early Sumerian Costumes (C.

3500-2500 B.C.)
Kaunakes/Skirts
were the major item
of clothing, worn by
both men & women.
In the earliest period
these skirts were
probably made of
sheepskin with the
fleece still attached.
A Greek word
kaunakes, has been
applied to this fleece
or fleece like fabric.
Skirts length varied with the social status.

Servants & soldiers wore shorter lengths and royalties & deities
wore longer lengths.
These skirts were wrapped around the body and when the fabric
ends were long enough, an end of fabric length was passed up,
under a belt, and over one shoulder.
Belts were wide and padded and worn at the waist to hold skirts
in place
Cloaks were probably made from animal skins, leather or felt

and covered upper part of the body.
Later on these
tufts shrunk to
fringes at the
border or the
edge of the
shawl or cloak
Hair and Headdresses

People shaved their heads probably
to avoid worms and heat.
Mesopotamian men are depicted
both clean-shaven and bearded.
Both men and women pulled their long hair at the

back of the neck in a bun called Chignon
(sheenyon) held in place by a fillet (filay).
Jewelry
From archeological
evidence it appears
that some royal
women wore
elaborate gold
jewelry.
A beautiful gold
crown has been
found from the
excavation at the city
of Ur from about
2800 B.C.
Later Sumerian and Babylonian

Costumes
Skirts continued to be worn
with shawls draped in various
ways.
Tunics were worn.
Assurbanipal II, A Babylonian
king in long Tunic with close
fitting sleeves and shawl with
fringes.
Sleeves reflect
the influence
of visitors
from higher
altitudes.
So does the
boots.
A Babylonian
Man
A Babylonian
Man
Military Costumes
Depictions of armies and military from basrelief and paintings show the soldiers wore
skirts of woven fabrics with fringed decoration
at the lower edge.
Shawls were worn with skirts.
Helmets made out of leather or metal often
with horn-shaped decoration were worn.
Footwear consisted of sandals.
Art work depicting costumes of the warriors. They

are shown wearing a helmet, shawl and a short
skirt with fringes.
Civilian costumes
The poor wore skirts, loincloths and
tunics. The nobility wore draped
garments. Fabrics are fringed and/or
have woven or embroidered edging.
The kaunakes persisted for a time for
women, but gradually became
associated with religious figures
(goddesses, priestesses, etc.,)
Art work depicting musicians. They are shown

wearing a a short skirt with fringes and are bare
feet. A compilation by Lavdeep Singh, Asst. Professor, Department of Fashion design, NIFT, Kangra.
Hair and Headdress

Men are depicted only with beards.
Hats are turban like and close fitted
at the crown, with a small brim or
padded roll at the edge.
Women continued to make chignon
held in place with a fillet.
Turban on the Left

Beard on the Right
King Hammurabi of Babylon with a turban like hat

and beard.
A woman wearing closefitting dog-collar type of

necklace made from
several rings of metals is
shown in sculptures form
that period.
The other common piece of
jewelry is earrings.
She is also wearing a shawl
with decorated border.
Footwear: Bare feet were
common. The well to do
wore sandals.
Later Babylonian and Assyrian

Costumes
Assyrians continued wearing wool
garments, King Sennacherib (C. 700
B.C.) introduced cotton to Assyria.
Both men and women wore tunics
with fringed shawls, a closely fitting
garment more suitable for cooler
climates.
Length varied with social class:

Royalty wore floor-length tunics beneath
long fringed shawls.
Priests determined the specific garments
worn by the king on any given day.
Laboring class wore knee length Tunics
with a belt and little decoration.
Soldiers wore a short tunic, a corselet
(armor) of mail and a wide belt.
Tunic is a
generic term
for a Tshaped
garment with
openings at
the top for
the head and
arms.
Veils
Reference to the wearing of veils
is found in Assyrian law codes.
Veils were one of the first legally
enforced garments.
It was considered to be the
distinguishing mark of a free,
married woman.
Slaves and prostitutes were not
permitted to wear veils, and a
concubine could wear a veil only
when she accompanied the
principal wife.
Hair and Headdress

Mens beard arranged in small curls,
achieved with the help of curling irons.
The kings beard was longer than
common men.
Assyrian women kept their hair, curly
& shoulder-length.
Footwear: Both closed shoes and sandals

are depicted.
High boots are shown on horsemen,
probably as protective footwear for the
A compilation
by Lavdeep Singh, Asst. Professor, Department of Fashion design, NIFT, Kangra.
Assyrian
military.
Assyrians later started wearing elaborate

sandals with toe ring.
Mesopotamian body decorations

Jewelry consisted of necklaces,
earrings, bracelets and armlets.
Jewelry made of gold and silver with
decorative gemstones such as blue lapis
lazuli, red carnelian, white alabaster and
sparkling crystals were worn by the
royalties.
Decorative motifs used for jewelry often
resembled those seen on patterned fabrics.
Body care
Mesopotamians treated their bodies
with great care.
They used perfumes after bathing for
their bridegroom.
Some women used to wear make up
as well.
Assyrian
Babyloni
anAsst. Professor, Department of Fashion design, NIFT, Kangra.
A compilation by Lavdeep Singh,
Sumerian
Persians
Persians overran the Babylonians in 6 th
century BC.
They soon abandoned warmer clothes and
adapted fringed clothes & fringed tunics.
Retained their characteristic head gear, the
soft felt cap Phyrigian and closed boots.
Introduced trousers, typical Persian garment.
Persians
References
Survey of Historic Costumes by
Phyllis G Tortora & Keith Eubank
Costume and Fashion A Concise
History by James Laver.
Fashion Bible by Tim Gunns.

Mesopotamia

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History of Design &

Ancient Middle EastMesopotamia 3500BC 300 BC

Often called as the Cradle of

How did two rivers alter the evolution of

A crescent shaped rich food-growing area in

It is here thousands of years ago seeds of civilization were sown.

Mesopotamia the land between two

The first civilizations in the Middle East.

Main Mesopotamian civilizations

Sumerians, founders of the first cities in southern

Revolutionized agriculture; it enabled

Once the cloth manufacture, on however

Invention of wheel, adapted from the

They also invented socketed axe and plough,

Cuneiform -Writing to records of their

The Mesopotamian writing reflects their

The Egyptians hieroglyphs are pictures or pictorial

Many Mesopotamian sculptures are also very

Mesopotamian society focused on serving the

The Ziggurat, served as the central unit of

Various excavated clay tablets depict that the temple

The Tigris and the Euphrates - natural highways for

Trade Mixed population

This depicts Sumerian men, most probably

Relief work depicting Warriors

Flax is occasionally mentioned in the ancient records, but

The surviving evidence

Later a type of shell known as Maoris produced a

Wrap skirts/Loin cloth- to wrap the rectangular

Shift from skins

Tufts became borders acting a

Early Sumerian Costumes (C.

Skirts length varied with the social status.

Cloaks were probably made from animal skins, leather or felt

Hair and Headdresses

Both men and women pulled their long hair at the

Later Sumerian and Babylonian

Art work depicting costumes of the warriors. They

Art work depicting musicians. They are shown

Hair and Headdress

Turban on the Left

King Hammurabi of Babylon with a turban like hat

A woman wearing closefitting dog-collar type of

Later Babylonian and Assyrian

Length varied with social class:

Hair and Headdress

Footwear: Both closed shoes and sandals

Assyrians later started wearing elaborate

Mesopotamian body decorations

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