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Interlining

Process of reinforce the specific parts of a

garment by inserting a layer of fabric in


between two layer of base fabric

Cause of using interlining:


To support, reinforce and control areas of
garments and to retain actual shape of the
garment component.
To make the particular component beautiful,
strong and attractive.
To get better hand feel and better
performance

Types of Interlining:
a. Sewn Interlining or non fusible Interlining
b. Fusible Interlining
a.

Sewn Interlining or non fusible Interlining:


Sewn Interlining or non fusible Interlining which
could be fixed with a garment component by
sewing

Advantages of sewn interlining:

1. Flame retardant garments can be made in this


process.

2. Simple and easy technique.

3. No need of using special machine

Sewn Interlining
Disadvantages of sewn interlining:
1. Quality is poor and appearance is not

same to all the garments as it made by


sewing.
2. Not suitable for large scale production.
3. Not readily available in the market.
4. It requires comparatively more time.
5. It is a highly labor intensive process.

Fusible Interlining:

attached with the garment component by fusing


resin applying heat and pressure for certain time
resin gives the desired bond

Advantages of Fusible Interlining:


1. Comparatively better appearance, shape retention and
better performance.
2. Easy to produce same quality product.
3. Fusible interlining is readily available in the market.
4. Comparatively cheap.
5. As fusing time is less, labor cost is low and production is
high.
6. Overall performance is better than non-fusible
7. As technique is easy, no need of skilled operator to
operate the machine.

Fusible Interlining
Disadvantage of Fusible Interlining:
High temperature and pressure is required.
So, special care is needed.
Initial investment is relatively higher.

Required Temp., Pressure and Time


Temperature

: (120-180)0 ,
( depending on resin material)

Pressure
Time

: (1 3 ) Kgs/Cm2

(10-18) Seconds

Required properties of Fusible Interlining

Temperature must not be too high that may damage the


outer fabric or its color
Temperature must not be too low that may lead weak
bonding between base fabric and outer fabric
Bonding strength should suitably resist washing or dry
cleaning
Adjustment of temp, time pressure and type of resin
should be such that strike through or strike back must not
be happened.
It must provide desired hand feel
should not be hazardous for health
color should be white in common cases and it should be
transparent
should have low dye retention properties

Types of Fusible Interlining:


1. Polyethylene coated Interlining
Here polyethylene is used as resin coating
It is used in collar, cuff and waist band.
The fabric is attached with this type of interlining is water
washable.
2. Polyamide coated Interlining
Here polyamide is used as resin coating
Polyamide is widely used for dry cleanable garments.
It may be water washable but washing temperature should not
exceed 60C.
3. PVC coated Interlining
Here polyvinyl chloride (PVC) is used as resin coating.
It is both dry cleanable and water washable. Polyamide is
widely used for dry cleanable garments.
This resin is generally applied on the base fabric as a
plasticized paste.

Types of Fusible Interlining:


4. Polyester coated Interlining
Here polyester is used as resin coating.
It is both dry cleanable and water washable.
This type of resin can be applied in all kinds of fabric.
It is called ideal interlining.
It is an expensive interlining
5. Polypropylene coated Interlining
Here polypropylene is used as resin coating.
Fabric attached with this type of resin is only washable in water.
Comparatively high fusing temperature is required.
6. PVA coated Interlining
Here polyvinyl acetate (PVA) is used as resin.
It is not dry cleanable and has limited wash ability.
It requires low temperature and pressure.
This type of resin is normally in the form of continuous coating for
fusing leather.
Very limited use in textile industry.

Conditions of Fusing
Luster: fusing should pose the desired
luster in the finished garments
2. Strength: strength of the bond of the
laminate should be sufficient so that
fabric of that is attached with interlining
would not be separated.
Bond strength should be equal or greater
to the life time of the garments
3. Correct Fusing: Fusing must take place
without causing strike through or strike
back
1.

Conditions of Fusing
4. Compression by temperature: Fusing range is 150C to 175C.
Outer fabric may shrink in that temperature. During fusing, care
must be taken to avoid any kind of shrinkage. Otherwise produced
component may be short than the desired size
5. Color of the fabric: During fusing, the color of the fused parts must
not be changed. If the color of the fused parts be changed, within
garments shade variation may found
6. Similarity in external shape: Pile fabric may bend in fusing due to
high temperature. If that happens, fused and unfused fabrics can be
seen different in external shape. Care must be taken to get similarity
in the external appearance.
7. Special Characteristics: The fusing process must not damage of
special properties of fabric that has been developed by finishing.

Quality Control in fusing

Temperature: Fusing fabric manufactures usually


advice the suitable temperature for perfect fusing.
Fusing temperature depends on the types of fusing.
Too low or too much temperature gives poor bonding
and strike through/strike back respectively. Certain
temperature is set for the certain interlining.
Temperature may be tested by two ways, portable
pyrometre and thermopaper.
Pressure: The pressure should be uniform and
sufficient during fusing to get uniform bonding strength.
Fusing time: The equipment must give enough time to
allow the temperature and pressure to induce melting of
the resin and penetration of the outer fabric in order to
produce a satisfactory bond. Fusing time may set prior
fusing. Stop watch may also be used to determine the
fusing time.

Quality Control in fusing

Pilling strenght: Melted resin of the base fabric


attached with the outer fabric. The bonding
strength between the outer fabric and interlining
is checked and compared with the standard one.
A sample of 5x15 cm is taken from fused
interling and measured its bonding strength by
tensile testing machine.
Dry cleaning or washing: Changing in
appearance or changing in bond strenght by
washing or by dry cleaning must be checked.

Methods of fusing:
1. Hand

Iron
2. Flat bed fusing machine
3. Continuous fusing Machine
4. High frequency fusing machine
1. Hand Iron: In this method, fusing of
interlining is done by hand iron to small
components like cuff, collar etc. In this
method, temperature, pressure and
pressing time can not be controlled
perfectly.

Flat bed fusing press


Features:
This type of machine contains two components.
these as (a) Head and (b) Buck.
The head is spring loaded and movable and
buck remains fixed.
Buck is covered with soft mat which is prepared
with fabric, blanket or silicon rubber.
Both surface of buck and head is covered with
PTFE.
Head is heated with current or steam.
Sometimes heating arrangement is joined with
buck

Flat Bed Fusing Machine

Flat bed fusing press


Working principle:

At first the part of the garment to be fused is spread


over flately on the buck and the resin coated
interlining is placed on ensuring correct alignment.
The head is gradually lowered on the buck by switch
and the required pressure is applied and heating is
done uniformly on the surface of the buck.
Head is separated from the buck after applying heat
and pressure till pre dermined time.
Then the suction chamber sucks air from the buck.
After sucking the air, the interlining becomes cold and
fused with the fabrics permanently.

Flat bed fusing press

Advantages:

Temperature, pressure and fusing time is


adjustable.
Easier process and most commonly used.
Low cost.
Tends to reduce fabric shrinkage.

Disadvantage:
Not suitable for large scale production.
Needs checking of fusing condition after certain period

Continuous fusing press machine


Features:
The machine consists of a fusing chamber
with continuous belt or feed sheet.
The heating chamber is controlled by a
switch.
Two pressure rollers are in the fusing
chamber and roller pressure are produced
by spring or pneumatic power and have
condition to increase or decrease of
required heat.

Continuous fusing press machine

Working principle:
In this machine, interlining aligned with base fabric is
placed on the feed sheet of the machine and passes to
the fusing chamber.
In fusing chamber, the required heat and pressures are
applied.
After heating, required pressure are applied by two
pressure rollers.
The fusing time is cotrolled by controlling the speed of
feed sheet.
Then the fabric is taken out from the fusing chamber

Continuous fusing press machine


Advantages:
Mostly used in country.
Higher production.
Good quality fusing.
Very suitable for pile fabric using.
No possibility of fabric shrinkage.
Disadvantages:
High cost.
Large space required.
Different bond strength of fused parts

Continuous Fusing Machine