Sewin

g
Thread

 Though it is often invisible and comprises a very small

portion of the retail selling price of a product, sewing
thread is an integral component of the garment.
Typically, the cost of thread is less than 5% of the retail
selling price. Since the vast majority of seams in a
garment are held together by sewing thread, it is
important to recognize that 50% of the responsibility of
the garments performance is dependent on sewing
thread.
Some sewing problems that result from improper thread
selection include breakage, skipped or irregular stitches
and seam pucker.
The properties of the sewing thread determine how
compatible it will be with the fabric.
The various properties of thread which are discussed
below are interrelated.
Changing one property such as the fiber type can affect
one or more of the other propertiesadversely affecting
garment quality, performance and/or manufacturability.

Sewing Thread Properties

The most important properties of sewing thread that
impact quality, performance and manufacturability are:
thread color, strength, uniformity, fiber type, finish,
size, twist, shrinkage, elasticity, elongation and
structure. The importance and impact each property
has on quality and manufacturability are reviewed in
the following text. The importance of thread inventory
will also be discussed.

Thread Color
Thread color impacts quality. The hue, shade and
luster should all be considered. The highest quality
garments utilize a thread color that matches the
dominant color in the fabric. For the best match,
usually a slightly darker thread color from the
dominant fabric color is selected. To save on cost
basic colors such as black and white can be used in
areas that are not visible.
Although it can be costly to order different colors of
thread for each fabric and maintain an inventory,
correct color selection denotes quality. Apparel
manufacturers of low-cost garments often use
whatever thread they have available.
Dyes should be fast to laundering and light. If the
dyed thread fades over time, the visual appearance
of the garment may be adversely affected. The
thread should not bleed or crock onto the fabric.

Thread Strength
Thread strength is critical to the durability of the stitches
and seams. Repeated breakage due to weak thread
during garment assembly can be devastating to
production schedules and result in weak seams;
however, stronger thread is not always better.
The two most important aspects of strength are tenacity
and loop strength. The appropriate tenacity and loop
strength should be determined when choosing thread.
Tenacity is defined as below:
Tenacity = Maximum tensile force
Linear density (tex)
Tensile force is the force recorded at the moment of thread
rupture.
Linear density = thread weight (grams) /thread length
(1000 meters)
Thread ranges from 18-80 tex or 18 grams/1000 meters
and 80 grams/1000meters. Some of the more common are

 In ordinary garments, the thread tenacity should be

compatible with fabric strengthnever stronger. If the
sewing thread is stronger than the fabric, the fabric will
rip before the thread breaks. Ripped fabric is more
challenging to repair than a ripped seam. However, for
high performance products, such as seatbelts and
parachutes and airbags in a car, you never want the
thread be the weak link.
Loop strength is the load required to break a length of
thread which is looped through another length of the
same thread. This test is a good indicator of stitch
strength.

Thread Uniformity
It is natural to have some amount of variation within
the thread; however, it is crucial that the number of
thick and thin areas be minimized. Thick places can
have an adverse effect on sewing. Thick thread cant
pass freely through the thread handling components
of the sewing machine which may lead to thread
breakage during sewing. Thin areas in the thread can
be weak and cause the thread to break either during
the sewing process or during wear.

Thread Fiber Type

Although sewing thread can be made from any fiber,
most threads are made from polyester, nylon, cotton
or rayon. Silk and linen are also used but the high cost
of these fibers limits them to specialized uses. The
fiber choice is in large part dependent on the end use.
Polyester and nylon provide strength and chemical
resistance. The high strength may be too strong for
some fabrics. Nylon has higher tenacity and abrasion
resistance than polyester, making it well suited for
applications requiring fineness, high strength and
flexibility.
The strength of nylon is adversely affected by
prolonged exposure to both the visible and the ultraviolet components of sunlight. Polyester is only
affected by ultra-violet components. UV inhibitors can
be applied to avoid strength degradation.

 Cotton is not as strong and is more susceptible to

abrasion than polyester or nylon of the same thickness.
Cotton can be mercerized (treated with caustic soda) to
increase the strength. Cotton is also less resistant to
chemicals.
Cotton threads have excellent sewability and are stable
at high dry temperatures and therefore less affected by
hot needles during sewing.
The strength of cotton is adversely affected by
prolonged exposure to both the visible and the ultraviolet components of sunlight.
Rayon is comparatively weak but dyes very well and
has high luster. Cotton and rayon have higher moisture
absorption characteristics than nylon or polyester
which can lead to rot in hot humid climates.

Thread Finish
A variety of finishes can be used to improve the
sewability of sewing thread, for examplelubricants
reduce friction and improve the lubricity of the
thread. Glacing (also referred to as glazing in some
texts) increases strength and abrasion resistance. As
mentioned earlier, mercerizing can increase the
strength of cotton.
Thread Size
Heavy fabrics require coarser threads and lighter
weight fabrics require finer threads. Assuming the
thread fibers are the same, the heavier the thread,
the stronger the thread. Heavier threads are subject
to abrasion because more surface area is exposed.
Heavier threads may also cause displacement
puckering (structural jamming). As the needle
penetrates the fabric, the threads displace the yarns
near the stitch hole. If the thread is too thick, the
displacement can cause puckering. The higher the

Thread Twist
Most threads have a Z twist or twist in the left-hand
direction as opposed to an S twist which twist in a
right-hand direction. Z twist is the most common twist
direction used in sewing.
Ply security refers to the way the yarns are plied or
twisted together. Ply security affects the stability of
the thread. The amount of twist is crucial.
Too much twist will cause the thread to be twist lively,
resulting in kinking and snarling. Twist lively thread
causes the needle thread loop to twist away from the
loop-taking device during sewing causing skipped or
mal-formed stitches. Too little twist will adversely
affect the strength of the thread.

Thread Shrinkage
Shrinkage is the amount by which a thread
contracts under the action of washing or heating. It
is expressed as a percentage of its original length.
Sewing thread shrinkage should be compatible with
fabric shrinkage. If the sewing thread has a higher
shrinkage than the fabric, seams may pucker when
exposed to water and heat.

Thread Elasticity and Elongation

Elasticity is the amount the thread will recover to its
original length after being extended by a set amount.
Elasticity is especially important in stretchy knit
fabrics because the thread needs to have a high
elasticity as well as a degree of stability.
Two events may occur with a thread that has poor
recovery. Poor thread recovery will result in loose
stitches and cause seams to grin or have poor
coverage..
An unstable thread may elongate and recover too
much, causing seam pucker that is similar in
appearance to shrinkage pucker.
Elongation is a test method which measures the
amount by which a thread can be extended until it
reaches its breaking point. Both properties are
important when assessing seam stretch.

Thread Structure:
Spun, Core Spun and Filament
Spun threads are composed of staple fibers. A variety
of fibers can be used; however, the most common fiber
is polyester. Two to six single spun threads are plied
together. Spun threads are strong, have good elasticity
and abrasion resistance.
Core spun threads consist of a strong polyester or
nylon filament surrounded by a spun fiber, usually
cotton or polyester. Several single core spun threads
are usually twisted together. Core spun threads tend to
have less seam distortion and puckering than spun
threads. Seam distortion and puckering can occur when
the needle penetrates the fabricespecially in tightly
constructed fabrics. As mentioned under Thread Size,
thicker threads displace the fabric more than finer
threads. Because of the strong synthetic filament core,
core spun yarns can be finer and stronger than spun

A cotton wrapped core provides strength and comfort.

In addition, core spun threads which utilize cotton are
ideal for garment dyeing 100% cotton apparel.
After sewing a garment constructed with a core spun
thread that utilizes cotton, the garment can be dyed in
one dye bath because both the thread and the fabric
are dyed with the same dye.
In general, core spun threads have better sewability
than spun threads.
Core spun threads are typically stronger than spun
threads of the same size.
In addition, the twist can be backed out of spun yarns
during sewing, making them weaker.

Filament threads can be either monofilament or

multifilament.
A monofilament thread consists of a clear single
nylon filament similar to fishing line. Monofilaments
are relatively inexpensive. Due to their partial
translucent color, these threads are inconspicuous in
garments of any color.
Manufacturers that use monofilaments as opposed to
dyed threads spend less time changing thread and
rethreading new cones. The use of monofilament
threads minimizes time spent inventorying threads,
and reduces the amount of inventory space needed.
Monofilament thread is very strongtoo strong for
many fabrics. It has a high resistance to abrasion.
Monofilaments are stiff and very slippery, making
them difficult to handle.
When a monofilament breaks it quickly unravels and
the end can irritate the wearers skin. For these

 Multifilament threads consist of a number of

filament yarns twisted together.
Multifilaments may also be bonded together to form a
cohesive bundle. This type of thread is often utilized in
upholstery and shoe products where high strength is
required. .
Multifilaments can be texturized to make them look and
feel more like spun yarns.
Texturizing gives them more coverage, stretch and
makes them more comfortable to the wearer.
The increased stretch makes texturized multifilaments
especially suitable for sewing knit fabrics.
Texturized multifilaments are also less apt to unravel
than untexturized threads.
Both texturized and untexturized threads are more
prone to snagging during sewing and wear than spun or
core spun threads.

Sewing Thread Inventory (Record)

Careful selection of sewing thread is crucial. It is
also important to correctly inventory thread.
Sewing thread is put on color coded cones. The
color of the cone indicates thread specifications
such as size and fiber type. In some situations,
thread gets put on the wrong cone color.
For example, if the necessary number of cones is
not available, cones might be broken down to make
more cones.
Often the incorrect cone color is used to wind
thread onnegating the meaning of the color code.
This practice can result in incorrect thread
inventory and ultimately incorrect thread usage.
This can have a detrimental effect on
manufacturing and ultimately on garment quality.

Conclusion
A high quality sewing thread that is uniform in its
characteristics and dimensions can be used on a
variety of machines and with a variety of fabrics. It is
important to note that certain machines can
accommodate a wider variety of thread sizes.

For example, on the lockstitch and chain stitch

machines, the needle and bobbin thread size do not
necessarily need to be the same. Finer thread is less
expensive than thicker thread; therefore using finer
thread can save money.

Thread failure can often lead to product failure. Thread

is not only vital to the performance of the garment,
but it also affects the ease with which the fabric is
sewn.
Sewing thread must be carefully selected to ensure
garment quality and the ease with which the product
can be manufactured.

 When selecting sewing thread, all properties need to

be considered. The way in which the various
properties are inter-related should also be considered
when selecting thread.
To ensure quality, the physical properties of the
thread, the fabric and the desired end use properties
of the product all need to be taken into account.
It is important to remember that one of the best
resources for a sewn product manufacturer is the
thread manufacturer. Thread manufacturers have
competent technical personnel and laboratories that
help with thread selection as well as troubleshooting
problems that might arise during sewing.

(E) SEWING
THREADS
If seams are to have satisfactory appearance and performance, a prime
contributory factor is the sewing thread used.
Correct selection of sewing thread requires consideration of its performance
properties during sewing as well as its performance in the completed garment
under conditions of wear and cleaning.
It also requires consideration of its appearance in the sewn seam.
As with other textile materials, sewing threads are composed of a fiber type, a
construction and a finish, each of which may influence both the appearance and
the performance of the thread.

Fibre type, construction and finish

The simplest division of sewing threads is, in terms of materials, into
those made from natural fibres,
those made from man-made fibres and
those made from a mixture, and,
in terms of construction into
those spun from staple or short fibre lengths,
those made from continuous filaments and those which are a combination of
the two.

(1) Fiber
types
A variety of natural and man-made fibres is used in the production of sewing
threads although some have only limited uses.
Linen was once used much more than it is now for making strong, rather stiff
threads for heavy seaming and also for button sewing but it has been largely
superseded by synthetic threads.
Silk is available both as the continuous filament that is extruded by the
silkworm and as broken filaments spun into a yarn. It has good appearance
and performance but its high cost restricts its use mainly to couture and
bespoke tailoring. Its only common use in higher volume manufacturing is as the
thread used in short lengths for pick stitching the edges of men's jackets and, in
more expensive garments, for machine buttonholes.

Cotton is spun into yarns with an average length of around 35-40 mm and
diameter 0.02 mm.
Cotton threads in general provide good sewing performance but their strength
and abrasion resistance are inferior to synthetic threads of equal thickness.
Cotton threads are more stable at higher, dry temperatures than synthetic
threads and are therefore less affected by hot needles during sewing unless
special lubricant precautions are taken with the synthetic threads.
In mercerized cotton threads the thread is treated under tension in a solution of
caustic soda which causes the fibers to swell and become rounder in crosssection. The result is a thread with increased luster and higher tenacity (strength
related to thickness).
They sew well on poorly adjusted machines.
Synthetic or mixture threads which do not rot and which give greater strength for
their size and lower shrinkage.
Recent developments in the dyeing of whole garments rather than colour
matching the materials separately has recreated a small demand for cotton
threads for sewing cotton fabrics.

Synthetic sewing threads are made mainly from polyester and polyamide (nylon)
with a small amount of aramid (e.g. Du Pont's Nomex) and
polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE).
Synthetic threads are not significantly affected by rot, mildew or bacteria.
They have high tenacities, especially in continuous filament form, and also
have high resistance to abrasion.
Polyester and polyamide possess good resistance to chemicals in general with
polyamide being most resistant to alkaline conditions and polyester to acid.
Both are degraded in strength by prolonged exposure to sunlight.
Polyamide is affected by both the visible and the ultraviolet components of
sunlight, as also is cotton, but polyester is only sensitive to near ultraviolet light.
In tropical sunlight, polyamide may degrade faster than polyester though it has
the higher initial tenacity.
All these fibers have been described in terms of being used on their own in a
sewing thread but one of the most commonly used threads nowadays consists of
a mixture of polyester and cotton in the form of a continuous filament polyester
core with cotton fibers spun on the outside. T

(2) Thread
constructions

Where the fibers occur naturally in short lengths or have been cut or broken into
short lengths, they must be twisted together, initially into a single yarn, and then
that twist must be balanced by applying a reverse twist as two or three such
yarns are combined to form the thread construction. The twist in the single yarn
consolidates the strength and flexibility provided by the fibers themselves.
Twist is defined as the number of turns inserted per cm of yarn or thread
produced. If the twist is too low the yarns may fray and break; if too high, the
resulting liveliness in the thread may cause snarling, loop knots or spillage from
the package of thread.
The frictional forces acting on a thread during its passage through a sewing
machine also tend to insert some twist, predominantly in one direction.
In a lockstitch machine, during normal straight sewing,
the needle and hook tend to insert some Z twist to the
sewing thread. A thread with a correctly balanced finishing
twist reaches equilibrium as it resists further tightening up of
the twist. A thread with an S twist becomes untwisted by the
action of the machine and then frays and breaks. The
majority of threads intended for use in machine sewing are
constructed with a finishing Z twist.

(3) Thread
finishes

The final aspect of thread construction to be studied is that of surface finish, the
most important type of finish being lubrication.
The requirement of a lubricating finish applied to a sewing thread is that it
should produce a regular level of friction and that, for synthetic threads in
particular; it should provide protection from needle heat.
An uncontrolled lubrication applied to threads, unacceptable damage would be
inflict on them during the sewing process which would result in thread breaks
during sewing and seam breakdown in wear.
Thread is store in such a way that the lubricant on the thread is not dried out.
Thread sizing
All types of textile yarns can be produced in different thicknesses and the
relationship between the length and weight of a specific yarn is known as its yarn
count or grist or size. There are many traditional count systems which are either
fixed weight systems which show the number of unit lengths that give a fixed
weight, or fixed length systems that show the weight of a given length.

Thread packages
Spools are the smallest packages and are flanged bobbins, once made in wood
but now always made in plastic. Although used to a small extent on slower
industrial machines, especially in footwear and leather goods manufacture, they
are largely used for domestic sewing. Thread is usually 100 or 500 m and is
parallel wound onto the bobbin. Spools are not suitable for delivering thread to
high speed industrial machines, nor for textured threads.
Cops are small, cylindrical, flangeless tubes onto which thread is cross-wound
for stability. Their small diameter making them less well suited to the faster
thread offtake of machines. They usually contain lengths of 1,000-2,500 m of
thread and runs in any one colour. They are suitable for cotton, spun polyester,
spun nylon or corespun threads but not for glace finish or fine filament threads
where spillage from the package would be a problem.
Cones contain 5,000 m or more of soft or mercerized cotton, spun polyester or
corespun thread, cross-wound for stability and good off-winding performance.
They give trouble-free thread delivery and continuous high speeds due to their
long length capacity, makes them ideal for use on class 400, 500, 600 and
combination stitch machines where stops for rethreading need to be minimised.
Cones are the ideal package for conventional sewing threads in situations where
thread consumption is high and production runs are long with limited shade
changes. They are also well suited to automatic machines.

Vicones are parallel tubes or low-angled cones with an additional base in the form
of a raised flange which may incorporate a small lip. They contain polished or
continuous filament thread and are designed to contain any spillage which may
occur in offwinding these smooth threads with no snagging or trapping when the
slack thread is taken up.
Large packages for use on overedge and cover stitch machines can hold in excess
of 20,000 m of spun or corespun thread wound on large cones or tubes.
Containers are constructed to handle lively monofilament threads which would be
difficult to control on standard packages. An exceptionally large spool of thread is
held within the container which can incorporate an extra lubricant applicator at the
thread draw-off point.
Cocoons are self-supporting, i.e. centreless, thread packages, specially designed
for insertion in the shuttle of multi-needle quilting machines and some types of
embroidery machines.
Pre-wound bobbins are precision-wound thread packages which can replace
metal bobbins on a variety of lockstitch machines. Conventional bobbins in these
machines are inconvenient and inefficient as time is lost in starting up an empty
bobbin on its winder after removing a full one, thread tensions and lengths are
variable and faulty build-up of thread on the bobbin may cause jamming in the
bobbin case.