Fragrance

The Perfume Industry

Came from the Latin word, Perfumare
which means to fill with smoke

Began in ancient Mesopotamia and Egypt

where it was used as incense burned in
temples and was further refined by the
Romans and Persians.
The worlds first recorded chemist is
considered to be a woman named Tapputi,
a perfume maker who was mentioned in a
cuneiform tablet from the 2nd millenium
BC in Mesopotamia. She distilled flowers,
oil, and calamus with other aromatics, then
filtered and put them back in a still several
times.
 The arab chemist, Al-Kindi wrote the
book of chemistry and distillations in
the 9th century, which contained more
than a hundred recipes for fragrant oils,
salves, aromatic waters, and substitutes
or imitations of costly drugs.
 The persian chemist/physician, Ibn Sina
(Avicenna) introduced the process of
extracting oils from flowers by means of
distillation. During his search for
medical potions, he found that the
flowers boiled in an alembic with water
gave up some of their essence to the
distillate.
 The returning Crusaders brought with
them the art of perfumery in western
Europe in 1221. It prospered in
Renaissance Italy in the 16th century. By
the 18th century aromatic plants were
being grown in the different parts of the
world to provide growing perfume
industry with raw materials.
 In 1950s, the US industry discovered
that the sale of perfume odors in an
alcohol-diluted form was profitable
Uses of Fragrance

Impart a pleasant and suitable

odor to a certain product.
Make base odor to achieve a
suitable fragrance.
Exhibit anti-bacterial property.
 Constituents of Fragrances

Vehicles- are modern solvents for

blending perfume materials,
such as highly refined ethyl
alcohol.

Fixatives substance of lower volatility

than perfume oils, which retard and
even up the rate of evaporation of
various constituents.
 Animal Fixatives

Castor castoreum brownish

orange exudates of the perineal
gland of a beaver.
Musk-dried secretion of the
preputial glands of a male musk
deer. Odor due to cyclic ketone
muskone
 Ambergris- a calculus, or secretion
developed by certain whales
Civet- soft fatty secretion of the
perineal glands of a civet cat
Honeycomb and Beeswax- from
honeybees.
 Resinous fixatives- are normal or
pathological exudates from certain plants.
These are hard resin, soft resin, and oily
materials.
Essential oil fixatives usually used for odor
and are also used for fixatives.
Synthetic fixatives comparatively odorless
esters are used to replace some imported
animal fixatives.
 Odorous Substance

Essential oils odoriferous oils of

vegetables origin. Insoluble in
water but soluble in organic
substances.
Isolate pure chemical compounds
whose source is an essential oil or
other natural perfume material.
Synthetic and semi synthetic
chemicals chemically synthesized
from an isolate or other natural
starting material.
 Primary scents (heart)

Consist of one or few main

ingredients for a certain
concept, such as rose.
Multiple ingredients are used
together to create an
abstract primary scent that
does not bear resemblance to
a natural ingredient.
 Modifiers

Ingredients that alter the

primary scent to give a
perfume a certain desired
character.
Fruit esters may be included
in a floral primary to create
a fruity floral fragrance.
 Calone and citrus are
combined to form a fresh
floral scent.
Cherry and cola can be
added together to form a
cherry cola scent.
 Blenders

A large group of ingredients that

smooth out of transitions of a
perfume between different layers or
bases.
Can be used as a major component
of a primary scent.
Common blending ingredients
include linalool and
hydroxycitronellal.
Dual skid continous in-line
blending system
Raw Materials
Natural Fragrance Components

Plant materials
Essential oils
Odoriferous bodies of oily nature obtained
exclusively from vegetable sources.
Flower oils
Essences obtained generally from the flower
of a plant by means of extraction with
volatile or non volatile solvents(ex.
Jasmine)
 Bark
Commonly used barks include
cinnamon and cascarilla
Fruits
Most commonly used fruits yield their
aromatics from the rind; include
citrus such as oranges, lemons and
limes.
 Leaves and twigs
Leaves are valued by the green smell
they bring to perfumes.
Woods
Highly important in providing base to
a perfume.
Resins, Gums, Exudations
Plant derive, highly odorous materials
with heavy viscous consistency (ex.
Myrrh)
 Animal secretions
Have lingering and long lasting
character which makes them
valuable materials for
fixation(ex. Castoreum, civet,
musk, ambergis)
Synthetic Fragrance Components

Isolates
Obtained from essential oils or
other means of physical and
chemical separation methods.
Synthetic and semi synthetic
chemicals
Synthetic chemicals modeled
after naturals.
 Aromatics
Known as benzoids,
considered to be most
important among aroma
chemicals.
 Fragrant Extracts
(Essential Oils)

Concrete
Extracted from raw materials
through solvent extraction using
volatile hydrocarbons.
Pomade
Fragrant mass of solid fat created
from the enfleurage process, in
which raw materials are adsorbed
into animal fats
 Essential oils
Extracted from raw materials
directly through distillation or
expression.
Absolute
Fragrant materials that are purified
from pomade or concrete by soaking
in ethanol.
Tincture
Produced by directly soaking and
infusing raw materials into ethanol.
Techniques In Extracting Aromatics

Maceration or solvent extraction

Most used and economically
important technique
Raw materials are submerged in
solvent that can dissolve a
desired aromatic compound.
Can also extract odorants that
are too volatile for distillation.
 Distillation
Common technique for
obtaining aromatic
compounds in plants, such as
orange blossom and roses.
Raw material is heated and
the fragrant compounds are
re collected through
condensation of distilled
vapor.
 Expression
Raw materials are squeezed or
compressed and oils are collected.
Only fragrant oils from the peels of
fruits in the citrus family are
extracted in this manner

Enfleurage
Absorption of aroma materials into
solid fat or wax and then extraction of
odorous oils with ethyl alcohol.
Commonly used when distillation was
not possible because some fragrant
compound denature through high
heat.
Flow Chart of Alcoholic Perfumery Production

Alcohol Filtering
Maturing
Storage for
Perfume about 4 weeks
Filling
Oil Mixing

Cooling

Distilled Cooled to
Water 0C Packing
 Blending

After the collection of perfume

oils, they are blended together
according to a formula
determined by the nose of a
master perfumer. It may take
many different ingredients and
several years to develop the
special formula of a scent.
 After a scent is being created,
it is mixed with alcohol. The
amount of alcohol in a scent
can vary greatly in different
fragrances.
 Concentration Levels

The type of perfume is determined by the

concentration level of aromatic
compounds it posses:
Eau de parfum:10-30% aromatic
compounds
Eau de toilette: 5-20% aromatic
compounds
Eau de cologne: 2-5% aromatic
compounds
Maturing
Fine perfumes are often aged
or matured for a period of
time before it is blended.
Some take moths, and other
takes years. It is observed
regularly by an expert to
ensure the correct scent that
is to be achieved.
Notes

Each perfume has three important

notes:
Top notes
Scents that are perceived immediately
on application of a perfume
Middle notes
Scent of a perfume that emerges prior
to the dissipation of top notes
Base notes
Scent of a perfume that appears to
close to the departure of the middle
notes.
Compounding

Compounding is the term used

by fragrance industry for bulk
production of perfume
concentrates. Fragrance
manufacture is usually a
straightforward mixing
procedure.
Thank
you