Trims

EMBROIDERY MATERIALS
OGFAA

SUBMITTED TO –MS. GIRIJA JHA PREPARED BY –ANMOL JAIN

SANGAM
MFT-2017-2019
Embroidery
• Embroidery is an art form that uses close or overlapping stitches & novelties to create
three dimensional surface designs to embellish textile & apparel products.
• Embroidery has evolved over centuries by dozens of cultures to a modern day
manufacture-able art form to add value to products.
• Joshua Heilmann from Mulhouse worked on the design of a hand embroidery machine
in 1800s. Heilmann’s invention was quickly followed by the “shuttle embroidery” and
the “chain stitch embroidery” methods.
Process of Embroidery
Evolution of Embroidery
Types of Embroidery in India
Aari work involves a hook, plied from the
top but fed by silk thread from below.
This movement creates loops, and
repeats of these lead to a line of chain
stitches.
Prominent in
• Kashmir
• Gujrat
Types of Embroidery in India
Banjara embroidery is a mix of applique
with mirrors and beadwork. Designs are
created according to the weave of the
cloth, and the textured effect is achieved
by varying colors and stitches of the
geometric patterns and designs.
Prominent in
• Andhra Pradesh
• Madhya Pradesh
Types of Embroidery in India
The Banni or Heer Bharat embroidery is
done with silk it is famous for its vibrancy
and richness in color pallets & design
patterns, which include mirror work.

Prominent in
• Gujrat
Types of Embroidery in India
Chamba Rumal embroidery has flourished
in the princely hill states of Kangra
Chamba, and other neighbouring
provinces. Chamba region has highly
skilled craftsmen.
Types of Embroidery in India
Chikan or Chikankari embroidery involves
the use of white thread on white muslin,
fine cotton, or voile, fine almost sheer
fabrics. 40 different stitches are known to
be followed in this type of embroidery

Prominent in
• Uttar Pradesh
Types of Embroidery in India
Gota is a form of appliqué in gold thread,
used for women’s formal attire. Small
pieces of zari ribbon are applied onto the
fabric with the edges sewn down to
create elaborate patterns.
Prominent in
• Rajasthan
Types of Embroidery in India
Kantha Naksha is embroidery on many
layers of cloth (like quilting), with running
stitch. It is also known as dorukha which
mean the designs/motifs are equally
visible on both sides: there is no right or
wrong side so both side are usable.
Prominent in
• Bengal
Types of Embroidery in India
Kasuti is done with single thread and
involves counting of each thread on the
cloth. The patterns are stitched without
knots, so that both sides of the cloth look
alike.
Prominent in
• Karnataka
Types of Embroidery in India
Kathi embroidery was introduced by
'Kathi' the cattle breeders, This technique
combines chain stitch, appliqué work and
mirror-like insertions.
Prominent in
• Gujarat
Types of Embroidery in India
Phulkari has distinctive properties that
the base is a dull hand-spun or khadi
cloth, with bright colored threads that
cover it completely, leaving no gaps, one
thread at a time, leaving a long stitch
below to form the basic pattern.
Prominent in
• Punjab
• Haryana
Types of Embroidery in India
Pipli work originates from the Pipli village
in Odisha and some parts of Gujarat. It is
based on patchwork: brightly coloured
and patterned fabric pieces are sewn
together on a plain background. Designs
include human forms, animals and
vehicles.
Types of Embroidery in India
Zardozi embroidery work involves making
elaborate designs, using gold and silver
threads along with studded pearls and
precious stones. Initially, the embroidery
was done with pure silver wires and real
gold leaves.
Prominent in
• Madhya Pradesh
• Tamil Nadu
• Uttar Pradesh
Types of Embroidery Machines
• Single Head Computerized Embroidery • Multi Head Multi Needle Tubular
Machine Product Embroidery Machine
Types Of Embroidery Machines
• Flatbed Embroidery Machine • Chenille Embroidery Machine
Types Of Embroidery Machines
• Coiling Embroidery Machine • Rhinestone Embroidery Machine
Types Of Embroidery Machines
• Hot Stone Fix Embroidery Machine • Hot Fix Spangle Machine
Types Of Embroidery Machines Attachments
• Sequin Device • Khatli Device
Types Of Embroidery Machines Attachments
• Pearls/Beads Device
Needle System for Embroidery Machines
• DB x K5
Stabilizing Materials
• Cut Away Stabilizers • Heat Away Stabilizers

• Tear Away Stabilizers • Wash Away Stabilizers

Parts of Embroidery machine
Threads for Embroidery
• Rayon Threads
• Polyester Threads
• Nylon Threads
• Cotton Threads
• Cotton Wrapped Polyester
• Metallic Threads
• Laminate/Flat Threads
• Silk Threads
Types of Stitches
• Outline - Used for outlining the elements of the design
• Border - Used to secure edges and to add textural dimension to the design
• Detached - Used to create decorative details or in mass to fill in open areas of the
design
• Filling - Used to create shading or to solidly fill in a design area.
Embroidery Stitches /
Novelties
Types based on material used for manufacturing
• Resin
• Acrylic
• Glass
• Pearl
• Metal
• Stone
Sequins / Beads

Sequin- Plastic, Metal, Glass, Sequin Strand - Plastic Seed Beads- Plastic & Glass Delica Beads – Glass Natural Stone Beads-
Leather Variation in Size Variations in size and faces (most Natural stone
Variation in Size & Shapes common hex faced) Variation in shapes

Faceted Round Beads – Stone Briolette Beads –Stone Bugle Beads Ceramic Beads – Ceramic
Variations in Facets & finishes Tear drop shaped , Vertically Glass ,Plastic & Metal Tubes Variations in sizes
(Crystal cut common finish) drilled & Triangular facets Variation in Shapes & Sizes Tubular & Round
Metal / Rock Material

French Wire – Light weight Bullion Wire – Flat copper Brass Sequin – Brass Metal Chain – Brass Metal Charms – Brass, Other
fine coiled copper wire wire coiled in square or Variation in sizes, holes and Variations in chain styles metals
Variation in Diameter triangular manner shapes Variations Shapes & Sizes
Variation in Diameter

Hot Fix Metal Studs- Brass & Metal Pipes – Brass , Large Sew on Studs – Commercial Filigree Stampings – Iron ,
Commercial cement plaster holes cement plaster , Large holes Sheet metal
Variations in shapes & sizes Variations in shapes & sizes Variation in shapes & sizes Variations in design
Acrylic / Resin Material

Acrylic Stones – Colored Lucite Stones – Twin colored Foil Resin Stones – Multi Faceted Resin Stones – Translucent Stones – Epoxy
acrylic powder liquid acrylic Epoxy resin Acrylic Crystal , multi faceted resin,
metal holder metal holder Variations in shapes & sizes epoxy resin Angular color density effect
Variation in shapes & sizes multi holes Variations in shapes & sizes Variations in shapes & sizes

Resin Rhinestones – Resin Resin Stones –Resin Cabochon Stones – Acrylic Givre Stones – Resin
Powder Shiny surface multi color Color in middle of shiny
brass metal holder Dye able Non faceted surface
Variations in shapes & sizes Variations in shapes & sizes Variations in shapes & sizes Variations in shapes & sizes
Crystal/Pearls Material

Bicone Crystals – Crystal Swarovski – Crystal Mirrors –Glass with reflective Crystal Glass Stones – High Cup Chains – Glass crystal /
faceted Hot fix polish quality glass, faceted Acrylic pearls
Variations in shapes & sizes Variations in shapes & sizes Variations in shapes & sizes multi hole Metal holder
Variations in shapes & sizes Variations in shapes & sizes

Crystal Chatons –Crystal glass Hot Fix Crystals – Glass Crystal Mother Of Pearl Buttons – Sea Glass Pearls – Colored glass
Foil back Hot fix shells Variations in sizes
Variations in shapes & sizes Variations in shapes & sizes curved surface
Variations as per shells
Cost Factor
• Cost of embroidery is related to size of design, number of stitches, materials used,
complexity, details, color changes & handling of garment or components.
• Smaller designs or repeats costs less.
• Cost is determined by adding up the material cost and production cost.
Quality Factors
• The quality evaluation of embroidered parts can be done based on :
• Thread used
• Materials used
• Stitch Count
• Design Accuracy
• Stitch formation
• Placement of design
Defects in Embroidery
• Poor Registration
• Where the stitches and design elements do not line up correctly. The embroidery sewing
process sews different colors at different times. If the fabric shifts while one color is being
sewn, then poor registration will occur when the next color is sewn.
Defects in Embroidery
• Fabric Grin Through
• Where the fabric is seen through the embroidery design either in the middle of the pattern
or on the edge.
Defects in Embroidery
• Missed Trim
• Where threads are left on the embroidery pattern between images or lettering. Thread trims
are digitized when changing colors and when moving from one location to another using
“jump” stitches.
Defects in Embroidery
• Bunching at Corners
• Where the corners of lettering or shapes are not sharp and crisp but are bunched up or
distorted. Usually caused by too much thread in the corners due to poor digitizing
Beads & Jewel Trims in Children Wear
• Beads & jewel trims that are poorly attached to garments or that easily break can become a
“small part” that is easily mouthed and swallowed by young children.

• Sharp or pointy edges that can scratch or pierce a child’s skin can arise through poor quality or
badly attached beading or jewel trims.

• Coatings and materials used for beads or jewels may contain chemicals that are hazardous for
children who are known to frequently mouth such items.

• Beading and jewel trims made from glass, ceramic, natural materials such as wood & shell are not
recommended because they can crack and break easily when bitten by young children.

• Consideration should be given to the positioning of beads and jewels that pass across the face
when a garment is removed
Material Testing
Test Description
Visual The appearance of the sample
Durability
Visual after washing
Color fastness
Chemical Toxic & Harmful chemicals
Light Exposure Color fastness
Metal Aging Reaction to external environment
Restricted Substances Check for lead, phthalates, Azo etc.
Areas Of Production
• China
• South Korea
• India
• Indonesia
Market Products
Market Products
Market Products
Thank You