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Dr Jimmy Lam
Institute of Textiles & Clothing
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Learning Objectives
1. Introduction
2. Fabric Geometry Models
1. Pierce’s Model
2. Modified Pierce’s Model
3. Kemp’s racetrack Model
4. Hearle’s Lenticular Model
3. Mathematical descriptions of each model
4. Limitations on fabric geometry
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Introduction
The objectives of fabric geometry (math models for
fabric) is to:
1. Prediction of the maximum sett (density) of
fabric and fabric dimensions;
2. Find out relationship between geometrical
parameters (picks and ends);
3. Prediction of mechanical properties by combining
fabric and yarn properties;
4. Understanding fabric performance (handle and
surface effect).
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Geometry Theories
Approach
1. In conventional approaches, the general character of
fabrics was idealized into simple geometrical forms
(circle, ellipse, rectangle)
2. They treated the micro-mechanics of fabrics on the
basis of the unit-cell approach, ie fabrics are
considered as a repeating network of identical unit
cells in the form of crimp weaves and constant yarn
cross-section in the woven structure.
3. By combining this kind of geometry with or without
physical parameters (material), mathematical
deductions could be obtained.
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Four Fabric Models
(geometry models)
• By using circle, ellipse, rack-track
approaches, four fabric geometrical
models are formed
1. Pierce model
2. Modified model (ellipse)
3. Kemp’s race track model (rectangle &
circle)
4. Hearle’s lenticular model
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Mathematical Notation for
each model
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Pierce’s Model
(Classical Model)
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Pierce’s Model (1)
• In this model, a two-dimensional unit cell of fabric
was built by superimposing linear and circular yarn
segments to produce the desired shaped.
• The yarns were assumed to be circular in cross-
section and highly incompressible, but perfectly
flexible so that each set of yarns had a uniform
curvature imposed by the circular cross-sectional
shape of interlacing yarns.
• Geometrical parameters such as thread spacing (p),
weave crimp, weave angle and fabric thickness (h)
can be found.
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Pierce’s Model (2)
Results
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Pierce’s Elliptic Model
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Pierce’s Elliptic Model
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Kemp Model
(Race-track section)
• To overcome the jammed structure, Kemp
proposed a racetrack section to modified
cross-section shape.
• The model consisted of a rectangle enclosed
by two semi-circular ends and had the
advantage that it allowed the relatively simple
relations of circular-thread geometry, already
worked out by Pierce, to be applied to a
flatted threads.
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Kemp Model
(Race-track section)
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Hearle’s Model
• Using energy method for calculations in
fabric mechanics, a lenticular geometry
was proposed by Hearle as shown in Fig
3.5
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Hearle’s Model
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Limitations
Fabric Geometry Models
1. Firstly, fabrics are complicated materials
that do not conform even approximately to
any of the ideal features suggested by these
four fabric models.
2. Secondly, the measurement of geometrical
parameters is not easy in practice.
3. Thirdly, the relationship between fabric
mechanic (tensile, elongation, bending) to
fabric geometry is not fully explored.
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Conclusion
• What is fabric geometry?
• Why are objectives to study fabric
geometry?
• Suggest Pierce’s model and its
limitations
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References
• Structure and mechanics of woven
fabrics by Jinlan HU
• Chapter 3 Structural properties of
fabric pp61-89
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