JB Martin Velvet Guide

For Restoration Hardware

Furniture Vendors

May 2016
 JB Martin Velvet Guide

1. What is Velvet, how is it made?

2. Receiving, handling and storing of velvet- Do’s and Don’ts.

3. Flaws and defects in velvet.

4. Manufacturing velvet furniture.

5. Recommendations for care of velvet furniture.

 JB Martin, America’s Foremost Weaver of Fine Woven
Velvet since 1832

- Beautiful
- Rich
- Durable
- Luxurious
- Smooth
- Silky
- Soft
- Striking
- Lush
- Remarkable
- Stunning
 What is Velvet?

Velvet is a soft pile fabric that has been manufactured for almost 4,000 years.
Velvet is a luxury fabric as it requires more yarn and steps to manufacture than
other fabrics.

Velvet can be made from any type of yarn, although traditionally, velvet was
made with silk yarn. In the modern era, cotton, linen, mohair, wool and
synthetics have been used in the manufacture of velvet.

Velvet is a woven fabric, its pile is formed from warp (lengthwise) yarns
woven into the backing. It is woven on a double piece loom which creates
two fabrics simultaneously. Velvet pile is sandwiched in between the
layers. As the cloth comes off the loom, the pile “sandwich” is spilt to
create two pieces of velvet-each with an erect pile.
After cutting, velvet is often sheared to ensure it is all even, and then
dyed. Velvet takes dye extremely well. Velvet is usually brushed while moist so
that the fabric sets with a grain, producing the characteristic feel that consumers
prize.
 A cross section of the velvet sandwich shows the uniqueness of the
fabric. Note how the pile forms a W as it intertwines in the backing fabric.
Receiving, Storage and Handing of Velvet
 Ways to NOT Store Velvet

NO NO
Do NOT stand up box vertically on its end.

Boxes should be kept horizontal to avoid

telescoping and crushing.

Velvet can only be stacked on top of each other

Horizontally only if suspended on pad plugs in
original individual carton.

NO
If box is stored vertically velvet will start to telescope
as shown on left hand side below.

NO NO
 Velvet should NEVER be stored in
plastic.
Velvet should never be bound around the
width of roll. Never apply tape to backside
of velvet. Binding will result is pressure
marks and tape will rip out pile. It is very
hard for pile to fall out, if it does it is a
result of mishandling.

NO

NO
 How to Properly Handle Velvet

Do take extra care when the fabric is in transit and in house.

Any rough handling should be avoided. Do not throw, kick, shake, slide or
handle any velvet cartons aggressively, please treat with care.

Do note the condition of the goods and cartons upon arrival.

Make sure carton and context are in good condition upon receipt. Look to
check that no cartons are open, not wet and overall not damaged. If any
damage has occurred please notify our company.
Do store the velvet in the suspended tubes with pad plugs.

Velvet must always be stored suspended! After cutting velvet should be put back
on pad plugs and retuned back to original box lain horizontally. This is
ESSENTIAL to maintaining the integrity of velvet.

Pad plugs provide suspension needed to prevent “pressure marks” and

telescoping which causes wrinkles and creases.

Do not apply pressure.

Ideally no pressure should ever be applied to the pile side, pressure must always
be MINIMAL and applied ONLY to the back of the velvet.
If original pad plugs are unavailable please store velvet SUSPENDED
on dowels like as in the image below.
 ONLY store the velvet in the suspended tubes with pad plugs.
Velvet can be stored for long periods of time with no damage if left on the pad
plugs. If damage occurs over time then that is due to improper storage.

PAD PLUGS
Boxes to be staked neatly corner to No more then 5 cartons in
corner to avoid box crushing. height in order to avoid
crushing.
Palettes need to be longer than the
actual cartons. Each box corner has to
lay on the palette and NOT overhang
from any side.
Example of properly stacked All our palettes are Heat Treated
boxes and stamped on both sides.
FLAWS & DEFECTS IN VELVET
What are Face Flaws and Defects?
Any visible condition in the fabric which deviates from the original standard
sample on which the decision to purchase was made. In cases of question or
referee, the visible condition (flaw or defect) must also be such that it
produces an objectionable appearance in the final upholstered piece.

What are Back Flaws and Defects?

Any irregularity or variation of back-coating which would adversely affect the
durability or appearance of the fabric face.

What are Warp or Weft Direction Flaws and Defects?

Flaws parallel to the selvages and greater than 6.0 inches in length.

What are Filling, Course Direction or Spot Flaws?

Flaws that when measured parallel to the selvage are less than 6.0 inches in
length.
 JB Martin Pile Fabric Standards

First quality merchandise is categorized with having NO MORE then an average

of 1 flaw in every 7 linear yards. The total defects/ flaws must not exceed 7 in
any 50 yard piece.

No roll shall contain more than two separate pieces within the roll, and the
minimum piece or cut length shall be five flawless yards of the same dye lot. The
cut or seam within a two-piece roll shall be counted as a filling or course direction
flaw.
Non-permanent issues that can be fixed with careful steaming &
brushing:

-Wrinkles
-Soft Creases: Creases that are not severe and happened after goods are in
the box
-Pressure Marks (extremely common if velvet is not handled and stored
property).

Permanent Defects that causing velvet to be unusable:

-Hard Creases: Creases that happened during the processing of the velvets
and will not recover.
-End out: topical weaving defect
-Bunch: bad transfer of weft filling yarn creating a small irregular area
Stop Mark- lateral mark when the loom stops
 How to Identify Flaws and Defects in JB Martin Velvet:

Warp or weft direction flaws shall to be flagged with red swift tacks at the
beginning and end of the flaw. The swift tack will be attach in the salvage.

Two or more flaws or defects within the same lengthwise yard shall be
considered a warp or wale direction flaw and flagged accordingly with red
markers.

Filling or course direction flaws and spot flaws shall be flagged with a red
marker placed in the selvage.
 Example of Flagged Defect
Plastic red swift
tack flagging
Defect
defect/ flaw in
salvage.
 Pressure Marks: Why it is Essential to Store Velvet Properly

Pressure marks are areas of the fabric where the angle of the pile has been
altered and appears to be either lighter or darker in shade. This can be mistaken
for uneven dyeing. This is

Pressure marks can occur during the handling or storing of the velvet. If the
velvet was rolled on the tube improperly or if the roll of velvet was stored
improperly that pressure marks can occur.

How to minimize pressure marks- as stated keep rolls in the box suspended
with end caps. Do not stack rolls on top of each other that are not kept in their
original boxes. Limit the possibility of excessive pressure on the velvet. Store only
one velvet roll in its original individual box.
Examples of Pressure Marks
Examples of Pressure Marks

Pressure marks shown here

were due to incorrect re-rolling
of fabric.

Do not re-roll velvet on any tube

SMALLER in diameter then the
original tube it came on.
 How to Revive Pressure Marks

Steam can be applied to the velvet in order to accelerate the natural pile
recovery process.

Lightly steaming in the direction of the pile, will help to lift the pile and improve the
existence of pressure marks. Most wrinkles and fold marks will recover by
themselves with time and moisture. By applying steam to the fabric you
accelerate the automatic recovery process.

We recommend any industrial hand held

steamer to help speed up the natural
recovery process. The J-4000 Heavy Duty
Garment Steamer is Jiffy Steamer's most
powerful model especially designed for
heavy duty purposes. Alternatively an iron
can also be used.
How to Revive Pressure Marks in Addition to Steaming:

Do brush gently in the direction of the pile if there is evidence of pressure marks.
Pressure marks are areas of the fabric where the angle of the pile has been altered
and appears to be either lighter or darker in shade. This can be mistaken for uneven
dyeing. Lightly steaming and gentle brushing in the direction of the pile, will help to lift
the pile.

What type of brush should be used to help lift the pile?

We recommend a soft nail brush to help restore the velvet pile to its original direction.
This brush should be brushed lightly in the opposite direction to help lift the pile.
By holding the brush on an angle the brush will glide easily over the velvet.
How to Steam Velvet Video
Manufacturing Velvet Furniture
Spreading and cutting:
When unrolling the fabric you may notice some roll arks or pressure marks that
may have occurred during transportation or storage. Please keep in mind that most
if not all will disappear and recover with time and natural moisture.

Sewing:
It is important, if possible, to ease up on the tension of the tread on the sewing machine.
A round or ball like feeder dog is also recommended to in order to prevent chalk like
stripes coming from the feeder dog.

Upholstering:
Velvet can be pulled and tugged like any other fabric. It is important not to hammer
on the face of the velvet when attaching the tack strips. A rubber mallet is best especially
if covered with some cloth or even cuttings of the velvet.
Packaging:
Velvet furniture should be shipped in protective packaging like bubble wrap,
construct protective coverings for corners or exposed arms or legs, ship in a suspended
carton or heavy wrapping. Do not store other furniture on top of unprotected velvet
furniture.

Aspect:
Velvet is a beautiful yet durable product. When made up on a sofa, it will get its unique
appearance after some time due its ability to recover with the natural humidity in the
atmosphere. Pressure marks, rolling stripes and smaller irregularities, should
disappear in a ventilated and relatively humid environment. Steam or distilled
water applied through a sprayer will enhance this process. In order to get the pile back
in its original direction, please brush it with a soft brush.

Color:
Due to the nature of the piece dyed process, slight shade variation may be present from
lot to lot. Please realize that color matching is very subjective and colors should be
evaluated against an agreed upon standard in an appropriate viewing area where
the intensity and type of light is consistent.
Recommendations for the Care of Velvet Furniture
 Customer Service Recommendations for Velvet Furniture Care

Marking/ bruising of the pile after sitting is normal. Most all marks will recover by
themselves, if not steaming and brushing.

Some slight bruises or marks may never fully disappear. This should be considered
an enhancement and natural antiquing.

Using soap and water or a commercial dry cleaning product, start from the outside
of the stain, while working your way from the outside into the middle of the stain.
Once dry, brush in the direction of the pile with a toothbrush, nailbrush or similar soft
dry brush to restore the loft and direction of the pile. Repeat process if necessary.
For any future questions please contact:
.
Robert Lachow: rlachow@jbmartin.com
JB Martin Company Contact Information
New York City Office
JB Martin
645 5th Avenue
New York City, NY 10022
Phone 212 421 2020

Robert Lachow rlachow@jbmartin.com Vice President

Jean Francois Changeux jfchangeux@jbmartin.com Export and Logistics
Aly Pagano apagano@jbmartin.com Cut and Sew and General

Factory Office
JB Martin
321 South East Avenue
Leesville SC 29070
Phone 803 532 6277
Helen McKiever: hmckiever@jbmartin.com Customer Service, Order Entry and Delivery Info.
Leanne Wood: lwood@jbmartin.com Accounts Receivable
Crystal Sanders: csanders@jbmartin.com Shipping and Documents
Davis Taylor: dtaylor@jbmartin.com Quality Control

Please send orders and inquiries to:

rlachow@jbmartin.com hmckiever@jbmartin.com
apagano@jbmartin.com lwood@jbmartin.com 37