1.

Prepare the vehicle for driving

2. Move and position vehicle
3. Checkup vehicle
1. Correct check-up procedures of engine system is
performed.
2. The inflation pressures checked according to
manufacturer’s specification.
3. Braking system and fluid level properly checked.
4. Engine belt tension and other necessary units are
checked in accordance with manual.
5. Lighting system are checked according to established
procedures.
 To know the proper ways in preparing and moving the
vehicle
 To provide scientific solution to answer the needs of vehicle
users and service technician as well as students.
1. Understanding of preventive maintenance of the vehicle.
2. Read and interpret service manuals.
3. Knowledgeable in checking engine oil level.
4. Knowledgeable in checking coolant level.
5. Knowledgeable in checking brake and clutch fluid level.
6. Knowledgeable in checking tire pressure.
1. Walk around the car. Inspect for any damage to lights,
tires, or body. Look for obstacles in front or behind the
car.
2. Get inside the car and adjust the driver’s seat. Be able
to reach all control comfortably and easily.
3. Adjust mirror inside and outside. The inside mirror
should give a clear view of the entire area visible through
rear window. The outside mirror should show much of the
lane alongside the car.
4. Lock all doors. This will help to keep doors from
springing open in a collision.
5. Fasten seat belts. The lap belt should be snug, not tight
across the hips – never across the stomach. The shoulder
harness should be loose enough to allow the driver to
reach controls. Belt should never be twisted.
6. Turn the ignition key “ON” position. This opens the
electrical circuit so that the dashboard gauges can be
checked.
7. Check the gauges and the warning lights. Is the fuel
tank full? Is the brake warning light on? The generator of
the alternator lamp should be on.
8. Check the position controls. Manual transmission
should be neutral or park. The parking should be set.
Lights and other accessories should be off. Check the
amount of “play” in the steering wheel.
9. Before starting the engine, press the accelerator to the
floor then release it all the way. If the car has manual
transmission, depress the car pedal. Turn on the starter,
as soon as the engine is running smoothly.
10. Check all gauges. Is the pressure normal? The water
temperature should be low, UNLESS the engine is hot. If
the water temperature is high, it should begin dropping
immediately. Generator light and brake should be OFF.
11. Stop on service brake pedal. Press down until it feels
solid.
12. Release the parking brake. The service brake pedal
will probably depress a little further.
13. Check traffic in all direction.
14. Put the car in gear. Manual transmission; with clutch
depress shift to low gear or reversed, whichever is
appropriate, for automatic transmission; shift to drive or
to reverse. Depress a little against the brake.
15. Signal your intention if you are leaving the space and
pulling out in the traffic lane.
16. Begin moving slightly.
17. Check the steering. Turn so the wheels are in correct
position straight ahead or turned outward. Both hands
should be on the steering wheel in the upper half on both
sides, with each thumb resting along the rim, not curled
around the wheel. They should be free, both relaxed.
Shifting manual transmission
1. Steering wheel “play” the distance that the steering
wheel can be turned without actually affecting the
position of the front wheel, should be minimal.
2. Strive for the greatest possible economy movement,
maintaining a straight course in traffic. Every change in
direction, no matter how slight, requires more
expenditure of gas and more strain on the working parts
of the car than continuing in a straight line.
3. Attempt to remain in the center of the lane as much as
possible, deviating from this position only when
necessary to avoid obstacle.
4. A skillful driver avoids unnecessary lane change. Choose
the proper lane and stay in it.
5. When it is necessary to change lanes, check both mirrors
for traffic behind you, then glance toward the lane into
which you will move. If the way is clear, signal as if for a
turn than change lanes and cancel the turn signal.
1. Always strive for maximum smoothness in bringing the
car to a complete stop. A jerky stop is very uncomfortable
for passenger places undue strain on the car, and could
result in loss control.
2. The maximum braking effort should be made when you
begin to slow down well in advance of the point where
you wish to stop. Make a smoother stop and had a greater
safety margin by applying the brakes harder at first then
easing off as the car slows down.
3. Panic stop occurs when the driver has driven himself into
a dangerous situation. When panic stop is necessary,
apply the maximum braking effort without skidding
until the cars comes to a complete stop “pumping” the
brakes will help in keeping the car for skidding.
4. Do not rely on brakes alone. The use of the accelerator
and brake pedal must be coordinated when steering and
the use of the transmission.
1. For correct position, turn around in the seat so that you
see the back window with both eyes. If possible, rest
your right elbow on the back of the seat.
2. In the steering, place your left hand at the top of the
steering wheel. Without removing your hand, turn the
wheel in the direction you wish to go.
3. The front of the car will swing through a long arc than the
rear. Glance forward often to be sure the front fenders
strike nothing.
4. Keep the speed low. Press the brake pedal slightly and
smoothly. Speed, braking and steering are more difficult
to control while backing up than while going forward.
 There are three basic kinds of control in an automobile, the
accelerator, the brakes, and the wheel.
 All three depend entirely on traction-friction to do their
work.
 Without friction between the tires and the road surface, a
car cannot be controlled.
 A driver generally looses control of his car because he
accelerates too rapidly, applies too hard or runs too
sharply.
 Any of this driving errors can cause the car momentum to
overcome tire traction, thereby producing an uncontrolled
skidding car.
 In order to regain control, the driver must know how to
break the skid, and he must have sufficient time distance in
which to act.
 Not all skids are alike; however, the basic corrective
measure of all kinds involves some combination of these
three steps:
1. Do not apply the brakes.
2. Do not accelerate.
3. Counter steer (turn the wheel into the skid) until the car
has turned its proper position on the road.
 If the car has automatic transmission and it is necessary
to keep the car from rolling after completely stopping, use
your left foot on the brake pedal and right foot on the
accelerator.
 Use the following procedure with a manual transmission:
1. While stopping on hill, DO NOT let out the clutch to the
clutch point in order to keep from rolling backward. Use
the brake to hold the car in place. While the car is
stopped, disengage the clutch.
2. If necessary, “heel and toe” the brakes and accelerator.
Left Turns
1. Choose the correct lane well in advance of point where
you will turn.
2. Signal for turn at least 200 feet before reaching the
intersection or corner. Avoid signaling too early, since
your signal may confuse others.
3. Check all traffic behind and ahead. Notice the speed of
the approaching traffic.
4. Begin braking early; checking mirrors to be sure cars
behind you are slowing down. If the car has a manual
transmission, downshift to second gear.
5. The lowest speed could be reached before actually
beginning the turn. Once you started to turn, accelerate
just enough to allow the engine to pull the car through the
maneuver.
6. Make a final check of the traffic behind you and on the
street into which your are turning.
7. As the rear wheels clear the crosswalk or pass the edge
of the curve, turn the steering wheel to the left, aiming
into the correct lane. Watch for pedestrian in any
crosswalk that will be crossed.
8. As you enter the correct lane, straighten the steering
wheel and accelerate to the cruising speed, shifting as
necessary.
 Step 1-6 are just the same as for left turn, except that you
should be in the lane farthest to the right including the
perking lane or lane reserved for a bus stop. If a bus is
present, loading or unloading passengers, wait until it
leaves.
7. Begin steering to the right as the front of the passenger
compartment door passes the end of the curve or the
crosswalk. Do not swerve out into another lane.
8. Begin straightening the steering wheel about halfway
through the turn.
 Turning around is the most hazardous of driving. It should
be done only with extreme care. In fact, special care should
always be exercised by the driver who attempts any
driving maneuver that is contrary to the normal flow of
traffic or that might confuse others.
 The following turnaround maneuvers are recommended for
rural roads only where there is little or no traffic. On city
streets, it is much safer and takes less time to drive around
the block.

 A U-turn on many streets are illegal.

1. Move the far right of the road. Check traffic.
2. Signal for left turn.
3. Complete the turn in a single motion turning the steering
wheel as far as the left possible. This maneuver can be
made only in a wide road with very little traffic.
To make two-point turnaround using a driveway side road to
the left:
1. Begin as making a normal left turn.
2. Stop on the driveway as soon as you completely left the
main road. Check for traffic coming from your right.
3. Back onto the road, using only the nearest available lane
stop.
4. Go forward.
1. Signal for right turn
2. Continue past the driveway, and then stop. Check traffic
from behind and the right.
3. Back into the driveway. Stop when you have completely
cleared the road.
4. Check traffic in both direction, signal for the left turn. Go
forward, making the left turn into the proper lane.
1. Move to the far right side of the road. Check traffic,
making sure that you have time and space to complete
the turnaround.
2. Signal for left turn.
3. Turn the steering wheel as far to the left as possible.
4. Turn the steering wheel to the right and back up to the
opposite edge of the pavement.
5. Check traffic once again.
6. Go forward to the proper lane. This maneuver should be
made only if there is very little traffic. Wheels should be
leaving the pavement in step 2 or 4.
Angle Parking
1. Approach the parking space at low speed, checking for
the traffic behind you. Use the right turn signal. You
should be about five feet away from the line of the parked
cars.
2. Begin turning to the right when the front edge of the
passenger reaches a point even with the left rear fender
of the car parked to the right of the empty space.
3. Clear frequently to be sure that your left front fender will
clear to the car to the left and that right rear fender will
clear the right of the car.
4. Pull straight into the space and stop with the right front
wheel touching the curb. Set parking brake.
5. When backing out, check traffic first then put
transmission in reverse. Release the parking brake.
Check traffic again and back out slowly.
6. Begin turning to the right when your right rear wheel
passes the end of the car in the next space. Remember to
check your left front fender for clearance.
7. When you have completely cleared the parking space,
turn the steering wheel to the left and go forward into the
proper driving lane.
1. Approach the parking space at low speed. Use the tight
turn signal. Continue past the parking space until your
right car is even with the car ahead of empty space, and
then stop.
2. Check traffic again. Begin backing slowly. As soon as
right wheel is even with the end of the car on the right,
begin turning the steering wheel to the right. Turn the
wheel rapidly as far as it will go.
3. Straighten the wheel when you are moving backward at
roughly 45- degree angle to the parking space.
4. As soon as your right wheel passes the end of the car to
your right, begin turning your steering wheel rapidly to
the left. In effect, aim your left rear fender at the left
headlight of the car behind you. Stop, turn the steering
wheel to the right, and go forward until your car is
centered in the parking space. Set the parking brake.
5. Continue backing until you are almost touching the
bumper of the car behind you. Stop, turn the steering
wheel to the right, and go forward unit your car is
centered in the parking space. Set the parking brake.
6. When you are leaving the parking space, check traffic
first. Release the parking brake. Then back up as far as
possible, turning the steering wheel to the right.
7. Stop without touching the car behind you. Check traffic
again, signal for a little turn, turn the steering wheel as far
as the left as possible and go forward the proper lane.
 Park in the usual manner, except that your front wheels
should be turned sharply toward the curb. When you stop
the car, let it roll against the curb. Set the parking space.
1. If there is a curb, pull into the traffic space in the usual way. After
pulling forward and stopping, turn the wheel sharply away from the
curb. Let the car roll back slightly until the wheel rest against the
curb. Set the parking brake. When you are ready to leave the
parking space, you will have to pull forward slightly before turning
the wheel and backing
2. If there is no curb, pull into the space in the usual way. After pulling
forward and stopping, turn the front wheels sharply toward the
edge of the pavement. Be sure the parking brake is properly set
and that the car is left in low gear (manual) or Park (automatic). If
some reason the car should begin rolling backward, it will off the
street rather than into the path of the oncoming cars.
 The following steps should be taken whenever the car is left
unattended, even for a minute or two. Make this procedure a habit for
it can save your time and money by reducing the possibility of theft.

1. Put the transmission in low gear (manual) or in park (automatic).

2. Set the parking brake. Keep your foot on the service brake fluid
until the parking brake is set.
3. Turn off the lights, radio all other switches. Quickly check all
gauges.
4. Turn off the engine. Remove the ignition key.
5. Leave the car and lock the doors.
It is always unwise to leave anything valuable in the car,
even with the door locked. If it is necessary to leave
anything, at least the article completely out of sight in the
trunk or glove compartment, under the seat or covered with
cloth.
 Stone says that defensive driving is nothing more than a set
of attitudes applied to specific driving conditions. The
basic principle is to avoid danger whenever possible. Here
is the gist his advice.
1. Assume all others drivers are incompetent.
2. Minimize risk if you cannot avoid them.
3. Always drive as if your life depended on it.
4. Plan a route to be sure you know where you are going.
5. Yield to Main Street. Always be alert for possible danger
and ready to yield the right way.
6. Be decisive. Once you have begun a maneuver, such as a turn or
crossing and intersection, complete the maneuver as quickly as
you can.
7. Keep your distance. In the open highway or on the city street, keep
enough distance between you and the vehicle ahead. In this way,
you can stop safely if necessary.
8. Choose your lane while you are moving into the traffic. Pick the
lane in which traffic is following most smoothly. Avoid lane hopping
making lane changes in short distance. Select the proper lane well
in advance in the turn you plan to make. Signal your lane changes
and cancel after entering the new lane.
9. In approaching intersections, be alert for the drivers who fail to
signal their attention to turn or who turn from the wrong lane.
10. Where to stop. Stop from the painted stop lane or behind near the
crosswalk line. If neither of these marking exists, stop at the stop
sign. Stopping no part of your vehicle should extend into the
intersection itself. Stop in the proper lane.
11. Crossing the street. Having stopped, stay alert for your first clear opportunity to
cross the street safely. Watch or the opening in the traffic in both directions. You
must be ready to go, with transmission in the proper gear.
12. Stay out of the way. Keeping out of the drive’s way is not only a matter of courtesy.
It prevents unnecessary congestion and collision.
13. Observe the signals. If you do, you are justifying what the traffic signals were
installed for. See your signal before you enter an intersection.
14. Making a left turn. Turning left is hazardous maneuver in heavy traffic. If
possible, avoid left turns in your rout plan. In making left turn, choose an
intersection where there are separate left turn lanes, four way stop signs or
traffic signals.
15. Making right turn. Turning right even in heavy traffic is easy. Still, you can right
turn incorrectly by approaching too fast forgetting giving the proper turn signal
by swinging way from the curb lane before making the turn, then swinging wide
onto the crossing-street before going into the proper lane by stopping half way
through the turn; by making a right turn from the wrong lane, by beginning your
turn too soon and your rear wheel hits the curb.
16. Exceeding the posted speed limit. Speed limits are established for good reason.
Exceeding posted speed limits in an open invitation for an accident. There are
many instances when driving within the posted limit is still excessive speed.
Over speeding means driving too fast or conditions like rain, fog, darkness,
defective headlights, etc.
17. Adjust for road conditions. Adjust to nighttime driving, driving in bad weather or
in any condition when visibility is reduced. Slow in curves and hills despite
posted speed limits.
18. Adjust to traffic conditions. Adjust speed for unusual traffic congestion and or
slow moving vehicles.
19. Adjust for limitation of vehicle. You must know the limitations of your vehicle.
Despite posted limits, if the vehicle is old, the tires thinned out, or it is heavily
loaded, adjust to these limitations.
20. Adjust to your physical condition. If you are tired, under tension or emotional
stress, slow down. If sleepy, stop.
 The provision of the Republic Act No. 4136, include those persons who are qualified
to apply for a driver’s license being:
1. Physically and mentally fit to drive. Those persons who are suffering for
contagious diseases like syphilis, mentally drained, victims of drug addiction,
epileptics, and those having dismemberment of an arm or limbs are precluded
from the issuance of a driver’s license.
2. Qualified to take the written and practical examinations to show the ability to
operate a vehicle.
3. At least 18 years of age.
4. Can read and write.
a. A good driver should know his safe driving speed as to the condition of the road
as well as of the vehicle. If the road is rough he should reduce this speed in order
that a safe travel and comfort may be felt by the passengers. A good driver
should see to it that a vehicle is road worthy enough, having a good steering and
brake system condition.
b. A prudent driver must be able to handle the vehicle safely in order not to
endanger the life, limb, and property of any person.
c. A good driver never steps on the brake too often except when needed, but
smoothly and progressively. Therefore he must be able to anticipate stops by
reading the road intelligently.
d. A safe running speed is done with the vehicle only when the distance ahead is
clear and free of hidden obstruction.
e. A good driver will be able to anticipate hazard and possible course of action to
be taken just in case an accident happens.
f. After having ascertained the road visibility, overtake with care and be able to get
back after passing.
g. Yield to someone who is trying to overtake and reduce speed if necessary, there
may have impending traffic ahead or road hazard like pedestrian, animals and
children in the vicinity
 Many service procedures require lifting the vehicle. There are two basic methods
of lifting the vehicle from the floor: floor jack and safety stands, and hoists. Each
requires the technician to follow certain safety rules to prevent injury and vehicle
damage.
 Before using the floor jack, make sure it has a sufficient rating to lift and sustain the
weight of the vehicle.
 Next, inspect of it for proper lubrication and hydraulic fluid leaks. If the jack does
not pass any one of these inspections, tag it and notify your instructor immediately.
 To lift the entire vehicle, begin by placing the vehicles transmission into PARK:
place it in first gear if the vehicle has a manual transmission. Set the parking brake
and place wheel blocks around the rear wheels.
 Position the floor jack under the front of the vehicle at a location strong enough to
support the weight. The jack should center between the front tires and positioned
so that the lift will be straight up and down.
If you are lifting only one wheel of the vehicle, be careful not
to lift it so high that it can slip off the jack saddle.
 Operate the jack until the jack saddle contacts the lift point.
 Check for good contact. If things look good, lift the front of
the vehicle a couple of inches off the floor.
 Recheck the position of the jack. Continue to check the jack
position throughout the lifting procedure.
 If the vehicle or jack begins to lean, lower the jack and
reset it. Lift the vehicle to the required height. Do not lift
higher than is necessary.
Never place blocks of wood, and so on, between the vehicle
frame and floor jack to obtain additional lift.
 If additional lift is required, the blocks should be placed
under the floor jack.
 Do not get under a vehicle that is supported only by a floor
jack. Place safety stands under the vehicle in locations that
will support the weight. Use two safety stands to support.
 Lifting equipment is used in automotive workshops top lift
components, such as engines, gearboxes, etc., when
removing or refitting them to a vehicle.
 They are also used to lift complete bodies.
 They can be “A” frames or suspended girders, with block
and tackle or chain hoists or “C” floor cranes.
 Each type operates in a different way. Learn to use the one
in your workshop, its capabilities and safety aspects.
Regulations provide that all such equipment be marked
with its safe working load (SWD).
Do not exceed the safe working load.
 Check limit switches on power operated hosts.
 Ensure the lifting tackle is attached securely to the component.
 If the job requires more than one pair of hands, ask a fellow worker to
assist. Do not attempt it by yourself.
 The SWL decreases as the jib of a “C” floor crane is extended. The
cranes stability also decreases. Always use the shortest jib position
capable of doing the job.
 Do not move under a suspended component or allow anyone else to
do so.
 Lower the component to the floor or suitable stand as soon as
practicable. - Move the crane or hoist slowly, smoothly and under
control at all times.
 To remove an engine or component from a vehicle, plan
and follow a methodical sequence. Refer to manufacturers
manuals and ensure all parts are disconnected, to carry out
the removal easily and quickly.
 Special fixtures are designed by manufacturers and tool
companies to lift engines, gearboxes and other heavy
components.
 They save time and make job simpler and safer. When
available, they should be used in preference to slings,
chains, etc.
 Attach the fixture to the component as detailed in the
manufacturer’s instructions.
 Links should not be worn, stretched or fractured.
 Pivots should not be excessively worn and should move
freely.
 Fasteners should not be stretched and threads are in good
condition.
 Use only approved shackles. - Do not use any bolt or pin
instead of the proper shackle pin.
 Nuts must be fully on, no nut threads showing, holding the
fixture tightly against the component.
 Bolts, cap screws, etc., must be screwed in, over a distance
of at least one and a half times their diameter and hold the
fixture tightly against the component.
 Adjust to the desired height.
- Equal heights side height.
- The vehicle should be level when on the stands.

 Raise the vehicle slightly above the required height.

 Position the stands under the axle or reinforced body member.
Ensure the stands:
- Cannot damage any parts, e.g. floor, body members, hoses, tubes or
cables.
- Are stable and will not shift when taking the weight of the vehicle;
- Saddle contacts a horizontal surface or tapered edge that could tilt
the stand as the vehicle is lowered.

 Gently lower the vehicle on to the stands, checking that the vehicle is
seating correctly on the saddles.

 Before removing the jack, make sure the Vehicle is supported

properly by the Stands and is safe for working underneath.
 Safety or axle stands are stable, robust supports that hold
the vehicle at a height above the floor to enable free access
for working underneath or removing the wheels, axles, etc.
 They can be of a set height for specific jobs or adjustable
for a variety of uses. Some are large and heavy for trucks
and Heavy equipment; the more common stands are light
weight, but capable of supporting one to two tons.
 That the saddle is:
- Not cracked or spread;
- Clean, free from grease, oil, etc.,
- In good condition.
 That the stand is stable is stable on the floor And the base or legs are not distorted
or Spread.
 That the adjuster (thread, rack or pin):
- Operates properly;
- Locks in position;
- Is capable of supporting the weight (SWL).
Use the correct pin or a steel pin of the correct diameter and shear
strength if the stands are of the type that has a series of holes and a pin
to adjust the height. Do not use any old bolt or pin that may appear to
be suitable for the job.

 If safely stands are not available, use heavy wooden blocks, properly
stacked.
 Lower the jack slowly, until the weight of the vehicle is taken on the
safety stands, checking continually that the stand saddles are
correctly located.
Do not use bricks or masonry blocks to support vehicles. They are
subject to sudden cracking and spelling, allowing the vehicle to drop
 Never work under a vehicle supported solely by a jack. Always use
safety stands.
- Jacks are designed for lifting purposes, not for supporting loads.

 Avoid jacking a vehicle in an area where part of the jack protrudes

into a passage or driveway, creating a hazard.
If unavoidable, remove the jack immediately or indicate its presence to
the workshop.
 Never remove a jack from another person’s set-up, without first
checking with him that it is safe to do so.
 When raising or lowering a trolley jack, it must be free to roll under
the vehicle.
- The saddle of the jack is mounted on one end of the hydraulically
operated lever.
- The other end of the lever is pivoted on the jack body just forward of
the rear castors. When lowered, the saddle is above the wheels. As
the jack is raised the saddle is moved in an arc around the lever’s
pivot and when fully raised, it is above the pivot just forward of the
castors. When lifting a vehicle with a jack, the saddle remains
stationary in relation to the vehicle. The jack must move in, under the
vehicle, or, when being lowered, it must move out, away from the
vehicle.
- If the grounds surface is soft or rough, preventing the jack from
moving, the vehicle must able to move. If neither the vehicle nor the
jack can move, the saddle will be forced off its jacking point, letting
the vehicle drop, damaging it and possibly injuring you and your
workmate.
 Ensure the control value is in the raise position.
 Raise the jack until its saddle just contacts the vehicle.
 Check and if necessary, correctly locate the saddle under the jacking
point.
 Raise the vehicle above the required height by operating the jack. At
the same time, continually check that the saddle is correctly
positioned and does not slip.
 Position the safety stands and set them to the required height.
- Ensure they will not damage splash pans, floor, fuels lines, brake lines
or electrical cables, etc.
Position the safety stands without putting your body under
the vehicle
 Position the jack under the jacking point on a reinforced
member.
 Raise the jack until the saddle just contacts the vehicle.
 Check and if necessary, correctly locate the jack saddle.
 Continue jacking and position the safety stands.
 Never go under a jacked vehicle, unless it is fully
supported by appropriate safety stands or blocks, etc.
To avoid damage to the sill panel or reinforced member, use a piece of
wood that fits squarely on the saddle and correctly under the vehicle.
Before using a trolley jack, check at:
 It’s safe working load is greater than the load to be lifted;
 It does not leak fluid; It does not creep, e.g. gradually lower itself;
 It is stable, e.g. does not wobble in the raised and lowered position;
 The control valve operate correctly freely;
 The wheels and castors rotate freely;
 The jack is clean and the saddle free from grease and oil.

Report any faulty to your supervisor

Do not use a jack unless it is in good condition and of good
quality.
 The vehicle being lifted should be preferably on a level
hard surface. If the surface slopes: - Make sure the ignition
is switched “off”.
- Apply the hand brake.
- Select “Park” in an automatic gearbox or select first or
reverse gear in a manual gearbox.
- Check the front and rear of the wheels that remain on the
ground.
 Position the jack so that the saddle, hen raised, will contact
the jacking point:
- Manufacturer’s manuals show the location of the jacking
points.
- If in doubt, ask your supervisor.
- To avoid damage to the plash pan or floor, use a substantial
piece of wood that fits squarely on the jack saddle and
spreads the vehicle weight across the pan or floor and
between two or more reinforced members
 The trolley or garage jack is the most common type used in
automotive workshops.
 It is mechanically or hydraulically operated and mounted
on wheels and castors for ease in positioning.
 A range of sizes is available; small ones used by the
handyman for lifting passenger cars to large ones capable
of lifting passenger cars to large ones capable of lifting
heavy trucks and earth moving equipment.
 The safe working load is marked on the jack bod or on a
specification plate attached to the jack. The most common
size in use is for two to five tons lifting capacity.
Do not exceed the safe working load. Only the
recommended hydraulic fluid to top up or fill a hydraulic
jack. Do not use brake fluid.
When in good condition, trolley jacks are stable;
 Easy to position and operate;
 Capable of lifting heavy loads;
 Able to lift two wheels of a vehicle;
 Able to be moved while supporting loads.
 Before jacking a vehicle, know its jacking points.
 Some vehicles with independent rear suspension
cannot be jacked under the differential.
- Its mountings will be damaged.
Most modern petrol-fueled vehicles are equipped with an
evaporative emission system. Raising the fuel tank above the
carbon canister by jacking or any method can cause fuel to
flood into the canister and render it unserviceable. If the
vehicle requires jacking so that the tank is higher than the
canister, isolate the canister from the fuel tank as described
by the manufacturer’s manual.
 Check that the ignition is switched “off”
 Select first or reverse gear in a manual gearbox.
- For automatic gearboxes select “Park”.
 Apply the handbrake.
 Chock the front and rear of the wheel diagonally opposite the one to
be raised. - On sloping ground chock all wheels that remain on the
ground.
 Use a jack base or plank under the jack if the ground is soft or
uneven.
 Do not work under a vehicle supported solely by a jack.
 Hand or bottle jacks are compact and simple to operate.
 Various size are available; the large ones capable of lifting
many tons; the smaller ones for use on cars will only lift one
or two tons.
 They are mechanically or hydraulically operated and have
many useful applications.
 Supporting an assembly, e.g. engine.
 Straightening or aligning parts.
 Applying force to remove parts.
 Supplying force for a press.
 When using a hand jack to lift the wheel of a vehicle, ensure
that the jack saddle is securely located under the jacking
point or the axle, so that it cannot slip.

NOTE: Hand jacks normally have small saddle; the top

surface of which is serrated and grooved to prevent
slippage.
Jacks are available in a range of types and sizes. Some have
limited application and are only used to change a wheel.
Others have a variety of uses:
 Lifting two wheels at once.
 Supporting assemblies.
 Straightening parts.
 Applying force to remove parts.
Jacks are designed to lift a maximum weight safely. (Safe
working load: SWL).
The SWL is marked on the casing of most multi-purpose
jacks. When using a jack: Select one designed for the job.
 Ensure that it can lift a greater weight or exert a greater
force than that required.
Do not exceed the safe working load when using a jack.
 Passenger cars are equipped with a jack as part of their tool kit.
 Most of these jacks have a limited use; they lift one wheel at a time.to
keep the vehicle stable, they rely in the way they are attached to the
car and the three wheels that remain on the ground.
 They suit a particular model of car and attach to brackets or
mounting points built with the vehicle bumpers or body and must be
used at the positions specified by the manufacturer.
 Their use is limited to changing a wheel.
 How to operate them is described in the manufacturer manual or
service book.
 Remove all tools, lights, hoses and cables from
under the hoist and around the hoist area.
 Ensure the area is clear of other persons.
 Disengage the safety device or leg.
 Keep your feet clear of the hoist.
 Lower the hoist slowly and check that it is fully
down.
- Never leave a hoist unattended while it is being raised or
lowered.
 Ensure that the swing arms, jack saddles, etc. are clear of
the vehicle.
 Place the front wheels in the straight ahead position.
 Check that brakes operate effectively and have a full pedal.
 Ensure that the vehicle doors are closed to prevent striking
post when reversing.
 Move the car off the hoist slowly and under control.
 Jerks or jumps when raised;
 Slowly lowers itself after being raised;
 Slowly rises, either when in use or when not in use;
 Lowers very slowly;
 Blows oil out of the exhaust line;
 Leaks oil at any packing gland.
Notify your supervisor of any of these problems: they make
the equipment hazardous to use.
 Use the hoist until the pads just contact the jacking points.
 Check that the pads are located correctly against jacking
points. If it correct, lower the hoist and reposition the pads
or the vehicle.
 Use the hoist to the desired height.
 Engage the safety device.
Some front engine, front wheel drive schools are front heavy
and when on a re-post or similar hoist can tilt forward on a
parts such as wheels, suspension units and fuel tanks are
removed from the rear of the vehicle.
 Centralize the vehicle.
 Apply the park brake. Place in gear for manual
transmission, Select Park for automatic transmission or
alternatively, chock the wheels.
 Raise the hoist to the desired height.
 Engage the safely device.
 Locate the vehicle centrally over the hoist rails.
 Position the support blocks under the vehicle jacking
points.
 Slowly raise the hoist by operating the control lever.
 Lower safely leg or place a suitable prop, such as a length
of heavy section timber parallel to hoist’s rams.
DO NOT go under any hoist until the safely device or leg is
engage. Never raise or lower a vehicle while someone is
under it or in it
 Many types of hoists are used in workshops to raise
vehicles above the floor level so that servicing,
maintenance and inspection is made easier.
 Unless maintained and operated correctly they are s source
of hazards.
 Read the operating instructions and learn the safety
precautions applicable to the hoist in your workshop.
 Never use a hoist unless you have been instructed in its
correct operation.
 Position the vehicles centrally on or over the hoist - Drive slowly
 Prevent the vehicle from rolling. - Apply the park brake. - Chock the
wheels if necessary.
 Ensure that no one is standing in front of the vehicle while it is being
driven on to the hoist.
 Vehicles which are so loaded that the axle load on one end, is greater
than axle load at the opposite end, should not be lifted.
 Check the overhead clearance to avoid contact with light fixtures or
other fittings.
 Lower radio aerials.
 Close vehicle doors
There are State Government Regulations which require the
maximum safe working load (SWD) to be marked on all
vehicle hoists. DO NOT EXCEED THE SAFE WORKING
LOAD.
Using swing arm hoists that lift the vehicle under its jacking
points.
 Clean the lifting pads; make sure they are dry and free from
oil and grease.
 Position the vehicle.
 Position the hoist saddles or pads directly under vehicle
jacking points. (Refer to vehicle manufacturer’s manual).