SPREADING AND

MARKER MAKING FOR

STRIPED AND CHECKED
FABRIC
Fabric Spreading:

Fabric spreading is a method where piles of fabric are spread a specific length and width
wise according to the garment marker measurement.

A proper fabric spreading process in garments may effect on productivity, quality, and cost
of the production.

Fabric spreading is very important task to maintain proper shape of fabric before cutting
of garments.

Pinning tables are often used where full length plies of fabric are laid on top of pins
situated at key matching points with the appropriate stripes on each pin
TYPES OF STRIPES, PLAIDS AND CHECKS

EVEN STRIPES UNEVEN STRIPES EVEN PLAIDS DAIGONAL STRIPES

UNEVEN PLAIDS EVEN CHECKS UNEVEN CHECKS

EVEN STRIPES
• Determine where stripes will match on the
garment. If they are to match on the side seams
etc, the fabric will need to be laid so the stripe
is the same place on the selvedge for all plies.
• Position pieces so corresponding notches are on
the same stripe design.
UNEVEN STRIPES
• Choose a stripe that you want to emphasise and
place the centre front of all pattern pieces on
this.
• Match fabric at hemlines and centre front or
centre back.
• Determine if side seams are to match or not and
position pieces accordingly.
• Check that all pattern pieces are laid in the
same direction.
EVEN PLAIDS
• The vertical lines should be evenly arranged
from the centre front and centre back so that
the right and the left sides will be the same.

• Always match the seam lines not the cut lines.

• Start by laying the hemlines of the major pieces.

• Always match centre front or centre back seams.

• Decide if side seams are to be matched.

• Pieces with shaped side seams such as sleeves

should have the centre of the piece in the centre
of the plaid repeat.
 UNEVEN PLAIDS
• Determine where the repeat is and how this will
sit on the body.
• Balance marks need to be matched.
• Fabric should be laid with the plaid matching in
the same place on the selvedge's for all
multiple plies.
• Pieces that need to be a pair, (such as trouser
left and right fronts) are often marked with a
circle on the marker so that they are still
attached at one point such as the side seam or
crotch.
CHECKS
• The vertical lines should be evenly arranged • Lapel facings (that fold back onto the
from the centre front and centre back so that garment) should be cut from the same
the right and the left sides will be the same. part of the plaid as the bodice.
• Find out if there is a design line that needs to be
• Cuffs, pockets, yokes and other small
placed on the horizontal. pieces can be cut on the bias for effect
• Always match the seamlines not the cutting lines. and possible better economy.*/
• Start by laying the hemlines of the major pieces.
• Always match centre front or centre back seams.

• Pieces with shaped side seams such as sleeves

should have the centre of the piece in the centre
of the plaid repeat.

• Match the notches of the front armhole seam to

the front bodice notches.
• The rest of the armhole curve won't match due
to the curve of the sleeve cap.
MARKER-MAKING :
Marker making is the process of determining a most
efficient layout of pattern pieces for a style, fabric and
distribution of sizes.

Factories those don’t have CAD system perform this

process manually. In manual marker making to make an
efficient marker one need time, skill and concentration.
Now-a-day Marker making is mostly done by CAD
systems which give accuracy, increase control over
variables and reduces time required in making markers.
 NOTCHES
They are triangular or diamond shaped
symbols that appear along the cutting
lines of patterns. A carefully clipped
notch will match to a corresponding
carefully clipped notch to assure you
are pinning and sewing your seams
accurately.

Notches can be single, double or triple

configurations depending on how many
notched seams are on your garment
pattern. They often appear in an area
where there are concave and convex
curves coming together to shape a
seam. When there are a number of
notched seams, the notches are placed
in different places on the pairs of pieces
being formed into seams to help you
avoid matching seams incorrectly.
 AUTOMATIC MARKER MAKING

• Automating any check or stripe cutting begins with the CAD system.

• Pieces can then be marked to either match to specific patterning in the fabric itself or
by linking matched pattern piece to pattern piece to ensure. For eg, the sleeve should
match the front of the garment.

• The chosen repeat line within the checks can be selected on the garment pattern
piece so that as the garment is graded the check movement is always correct. This is
particularly important where the presentation of the check should be same regardless
of size. For eg, on front edge of a coat.