Lesson 4: Drafting Basic /

Block Pattern of Sleeping

Garment
The Sloper

• This is a basic fitting pattern that fits your body

closely, with very little ease. As such, it is a fabric
double of that part of your body to which it is
fitted. The sloper is then used to create basic
patterns (blocks) from which infinite pattern
designs can be created.
•
 There are basically two slopers:
•1. bodice (or upper torso) sloper, which fits the
body from shoulder/neck to waist, and also fits
the sleeve from shoulder to wrist.
Basic Bodice & Skirt Slopers
2. skirt (or lower torso) sloper,
which fits the body from waist
to hip.
The Block

•The terms ‘sloper’ and ‘block’ are often used

interchangeably, but there is a difference.
The block is drafted from the sloper to add
wearing ease, and there are different blocks
for different types of garments.
For women, there are:

Bodice block,
made from the bodice sloper. This is used

for fitted dress bodices or blouses, with

Skirt block

made from the skirt sloper but with wearing

ease and a slight A-line flare. This is used

for making skirts or the skirt part of a fitted

 Shirt block

 made from the bodice sloper

 plus hip measurement. This has more

 added ease than a bodice block for a

Dress block

made from the shirt and skirt blocks. This

is used for dresses with a more relaxed fit,

or for those that do not have a waist seam.

Jacket block

made from the shirt block. This is used for

jackets and vests, and has additional ease

to allow the garment to be worn over other

Coat block

made from the jacket block. This is used

for coats that require enough ease to be

worn over more than one layer of

Pants block

made from the skirt sloper plus

circumference measurements for thighs

and calves, and length measurements

• ¼”
Guidelines for Seam Allowances
• Necklines with facings •1"
• Armholes with facings
• Facings
•Side Seams
• Tight curves •Seams with Zippers

• ½”
• Major connecting seams
•2"
• Necklines with collars
• Armholes with sleeves •Most Tailored hems
• Stylelines
• Narrow rolled hems
 Front Blouse Sloper

Measurements Needed in Drafting Front Blouse Sloper

(Sample Measurement)

Parts of the Actual Body Measurement Computed

body measured Measurement Needed Measurement

Shoulder width 15 ½ 7 1/2

Chest width 13 1/2 ½ 6 3/4
Bust Circumference 35 ¼ 8 3/4
Waist Circumference 26 ¼ 6 1/2
Front Figure Length 16 1 16
Bust height 91/2 1 9 1/2
Bust distance 7 ½ 3½
Armhole Circumference 16 ½ 8
Draw
construction line
by tracing the
outer edge of the
L-square and
mark the corner
A.
1. A – B
is 3 inches
downward
on the
construction
line.
2. A – C is 6
inches
downward
on the
construction
line.
3. A –D is
½ of the
armhole
circumfer
ence.
4. A – E is the
bust height
5. A – F is the
front figure
length.
7. Square
out points
B–C–D
– E – F.
8.A – G is 2
1/2 inches of
the shoulder
width.
11. Shape front neckline from point G to B with a
French curve.
12. A – H is 1/2 of the shoulder measurement.
13. H - I is 1 ½ inches down on the swayed line.
14. Connect points I G with a straight line.
15. C – J is ½ of the chest width or ½ shoulder
measurement minus ¾ inch.
16. D – K is ¼ of the bust circumference plus ½ inch for
allowance.
17. Shape front armhole from points I – J – K with
a French curve.
18. F – L is ¼ of the
waist circumference
plus 1 inch for the
front dart and ½ inch
for allowance.
19. Connect points L – K with straight line.
20. E – M is ½ of the bust distance.
21. Square down point M to line FL.
22. Mark the intersection of points M and F as N.
23. N – O is ½ inch towards point F.
24. N – P is ½ inch towards point L.
25. Connect points O and M with a straight line.
 . Connect points P and M with a straight line
26
27. L– Q is ½ inch upward on line L.
28. Connect point Q to point N with a slight curve.
29. Cut front bodice sloper along line B – C –
D – E – F – O - N – P – Q – K – J – I – G – B.
A. Front Blouse Sloper
Fill in the blanks.
Directions: Fill in the missing data to complete the procedure in drafting the front bodice pattern.
A – B is _______________inches downward on the construction line.
A – C is _______________on the construction.
A – D ½ of the ____________.
A – E is the _______________
A – F is the ___________________
A – G is 2 ½ inches of the _____________ sway point G down.
A – H is ___________ of the shoulder width sway point H down
H – I is _________________down on the swayed line
C – J is ½ of the ___________________
D – K is ¼ of the bust circumference plus _________ for the allowance.
THANK YOU