APPAREL TECHNOLOGY

MANAGEMENT

AUTOMATION IN SEWING MACHINES

BY,

PARIDHI SHAH
SHIPRA SINGHAI
SHRUTI UPADHYAY
VIKAS SHRIVASTAV
VIVEK TRIPATHI
 Automatized Machines
(Automatic workstations)
Auto- Auto
Collar, cuff
attach
Auto miscel
weltin dart & loop laneou
Pocket
g stitching attach attach s
AUTO -WELTING
3- levels of technology
Stages of preparation Basic
Basic level
level Technology
Technology

Intermediate
Intermediate level
level technology
technology

Highest
Highest level
level technology
technology
 Basic level of technology: (Manual operation)

This level is the most rudimentary level of the welt pocket making
operation where simple lock stitch machines are used for the process.
It requires dexterity and skilled labor to complete this operation at
this level. Strict control over the machine is necessary to make the
pocket as per defined quality standards.

Intermediate Level of Technology

The intermediate level uses double needle lockstitch machine with

or without centre knife cutter. Two parallel lines are stitched in one
operation thus avoiding distortion. If the machine is equipped with
a centre knife cutter, then slashing is done simultaneously with the
stitching and the operator has to only miter the corners and turn
inside
Highest level of technology

The highest level of technology features automatic, versatile,

flexible and highly productive pocket welting
machines. These machines have different variants for straight
welts and slanted welts and can be customised
with a wide range of optional accessories for use in various
types of pocket welting applications. Cycle sewing in these
machines allows the sewing of different types of welts in
alternating combinations
 ROI FOR WELT POCKET

HIGHER LEVEL OF
  TECHNOLOGY BASIC LEVEL OF TECHNOLOGY
no. of pockets/day 2000 240

Production per day 1000 trousers 120 TROUSERS

Production per annum,312 days 312000 37440
Cost output per annum (assume
cost belt loop attaching
per Jeans Rs. 0.30) 187,200 202176
Total operator’s salary / annum 42000 36000 * 9= 3,24,000
Cost of one M/C, Rs 900,000 30000 * 9 = 2,70,000
Depreciation 12% 12%
Total depreciated value of m/c
after one year 803571 241071
ROI for first year (A-B)/C 18.07% 
ROI 4th year 101.00% 
     
AUTO DART STITCHING
 Automatic short seamer for straight and curved
darts and waistband pleats on slacks and men’s
trousers, on skirts as well as on blouses and
dresses
FEATURES & SPECIFICATIONS:

 Lockstitch sewing head PFAFF 1183

 Start backtacks, condensed stitches at end of seam
 Freely-programmable seams, illustrated on the graphics control
panel
 All the most common seam types can be sewn without converting
the machine
 Darts and waistband pleats can be reproduced exactly,
compensating different thicknesses of fabric, due to a special
device
 Variable arrangement of the bundle clamps makes it possible to
process extremely short parts up to a length of approx. 500 mm
 Table height adjustable from 740-1150 mm
 99 sewing programs can be stored, called up
individually or in freely selectable order
 
 Max. seam length: 250 mm

 Max. seam depth:

70 mm (waistband pleats)
30 mm (darts)
 Max. speed: 4,500 s.p.m.
 DETAILED TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS:

Stitch type: 301 Power requirement: approx. 1200 VA

Max. sewing speed: 4500s.p.m. Connection voltage: E 230 V, 50/60 Hz

Max stitch length: 1.0 - 3.0 mm Working air pressure: min. 6 bar

Stitch length basting seam: 6.0 - 9.0 mm Machine dimensions:

Needle system: 134 KK Length: 1250 mm

Needle size in 1/100 mm: 80 - 100 Width: 850 mm

Dart length: 9 - 250 mm Height: 1040 - 1420 mm

Dart depth: 3 - 30 mm (without thread reel stand)

Waistband pleat length: 9 - 250 mm Weight:

Waistband pleat depth: 3 - 70 mm 135 kg

Working height: 760 - 1140 mm The standard machine is equipped with finger -

Motor speed: 200 - 4500 r.p.m. belt and take-up lever guard.
VIDEOS.. (JACKET)
VIDEOS.. (TROUSER)
ROI FOR DART MAKING
AUTOMATIC COLLAR, CUFF ATTACH (WOVENS)

 The machine is used for making of collar, flap, shoulder tab, cuff,
collarband joining, fly piece making, lapel making, curved
waistband etc. It gives the higher productivity as well as the
consistency in the quality.
 User can sew the various patterns, selecting the figures on the
operation panel. Fast & low-noise operation is secured through the
system in which the main shaft is roted by the AC servo motor.
 The machine can sew at the maximum speed of 3000 spm, which
provides the high productivity in the field. The machine is designed
in such a way that a cycle time of the operation is minimised by
using powerfull stepping motors & pneumatic systems controlled by
the microprocessors.
FEATURES
 SENSORs: Three sensors used for detaction of Jig Start/ Stop, Knife Start/
Stop & Cornering rounding & condensing. Now one more sensor is using for
No Sensor Sticker mode.
 INDEPENDENT KNIFE DRIVING SYSTEM: The machine is with
independent motor to drive the knife to get the sharp cutting while rounding &
cornering.
 PRESSER FOOT LIFTING SYSTEM: To get a higher productivity the cycle
time of the operation is very important thus the machine has a powerfull small
pneumatic control to lift the presser foot immediate after the completion of
operation.
 JIG DRIVING: The Jig is driven by side disk & back puller attached to the
two different powerfull stepping motors syncronised with each other controlled
digitally.
 FEEDING SYSTEM: There is no feed dog in this machine. The machine is
with sandwitch feeding system to get good stitch quality in any kind of fabric.
The Jig is pulled by two powerfull stepping motors.
 JIG TURNING: The machine has a side disc driven by powerfull stepping
motor & pneumatic cylinder to turn the jig in rounding & cornering position.
The above technology takes a short time to complete the action.
 LCD DISPLAY: The machine has LCD Display digitally controlled to Change
the Speed, Stitch Length, Cornering & Rounding Option, Selecting the Pattern,
Knife On/Off, Checking Sensor Position etc.
 SPECIAL PRESSER FOOT: The machine is with two different presser foots,
one with bearing to help moving the jigwith a holding presser on top of the jig.
The second presser foot flows air to flatten the fabric towards knife while
operation, which results smooth cutting even less margin.
SPECIFICATIONS:

Dimension 1200 x 780 x 1770 mm

Weight 145kg
Air consumption 0.75 L/Min or .03 cfm
Air pressure 4~6 kg/cm² with automatic water saparator
system
Power free voltage 100V~240V
Cycle free cycle 50/60Hz
Voltage Control System In-Built SMPS
Motor Servo Motor 550 watts/ 220V
Speed 3000 spm
Shuttle hook Small
AUTOMATIC CUFF,COLLAR
(KNITS)
FEATURES AUTOMATIC CUFF,COLLAR (KNITS)
 Accepts 2 1/4” to 8” wide acrylic, woven or rib knit material
 Accepts 15” to 50” long (7 1/2” to 25” folded) bands
 Controls trim-off of 1/4” to 1/8”
 Stacker automatically indexes by number of pieces programmed
 System automatically stops after number of programmed bundles are completed or
material supply is depleted
 Changeover time approx. 30 seconds, by the operator
 Only one operator is required for each 5 to 7 machines
 Cutting accuracy within 1/8” of programmed length
 Cut length is programmable in 1/10” increments
 Includes thread break detectors
 Electronic DC motor and controls
 Seam ply alignment within 1/8” obtainable

Approximately 1,800 collars per hour, depending on material and size of parts.
COLLAR VIDEO
PATCH POCKET TECHNOLOGY

• Patch pockets are flat pockets sewn to

the exterior of a garment.

• Over the years, method of attaching a

patch pocket has evolved.
BASIC LEVEL OF TECHNOLOGY
Tacsew DDL8500T High Speed Single Needle
Lockstitch Industrial Sewing Machine

 Rotary Hook
 High Speed up to 5000
stitches per minute
 Self-Oiling with Oil
Reservoir.
 Complete with table stand
and motor assembled
DDL-8700:

a) Application: Medium weight

b) Max. sewing speed: 5000 rpm

c)Max stitch length:5mm

d)Pressure foot : By knee-13mm

d) Needle: DB×1 (#14) #9 ～ #18,134

(Nm90)
INTERMEDIATE LEVEL OF TECHNOLOGY
TL-98Q 1-needle, Lockstitch Portable Sewing Machine with
Automatic Thread Trimmer
 Sewing speed: max 1500 rpm
 Stitch length: max length 6mm
 Lift of the Presser Foot: By Lever Max.9mm, by Knee Lifter Max.
12mm
 Needle: HAx1 (130/705H) #7-#18 (HLx5#9-#16)
 Contd….
 Sewing speed: max 1500 rpm
 Stitch length: max length 6mm
 Lift of the Presser Foot: By Lever Max.9mm, by
Knee Lifter Max. 12mm
 Needle: HAx1 (130/705H) #7-#18 (HLx5#9-#16)
 Dimensions : 452 (W) x 350 (H) x 219 (D) (mm)
 Weight (Machine only) : 11.5kg
 Rated Voltage/Power Consumption: 120V/1.4A,100W
 Auxiliary Table (Dimensions): 590 x 277 (mm)
 Hook: Horizontal-axis Full-rotary
SINGLE NEEDLE LOCKSTITCH MACHINE WITH UBT

•High flexibility due to the adjustable needle bar stroke (30 to

36 mm).
• One machine for all material thicknesses
• Up to 13 mm presser foot clearance (with 36 mm needle bar
stroke)
• Eccentric for tilting the feed dog
• Concealed cable guide integrated in the sewing head
• Knife/catcher change for the thread trimming device without
readjustment
HIGHEST LEVEL OF TECHNOLOGY

BROTHER BAS-760 Electronic Pocket Setter Sewing System

 Cycle Time: 10.5 seconds

 Production Qty. per 8-Hour Cycle: 2131 pockets

 Stitch Type: lockstitch
 Stitch Length: 0.1 to 6.0

 Stitch Width: 3.5mm

 UAN 2631D UAN 2641D UAN 2651D
MODEL 2600 D SERIES POCKET SETTERS
• Maximum finished pocket dimensions: 6" x 6"
• Flap setting capability is optional
• User friendly computer control for program flexibility.
• Precise pocket placement with laser alignment system.
• Automatic diagnostic sensors give warnings on the control panel
of irregularities occurring in the work cycle.
• Flat stacking system for easy transition to the next position.
ROI CALCULATION (FOR BASIC AND HIGHEST LEVEL
OF TECHNOLOGY)

 Depreciated Value = Net Book Value/

[1+Depreciation Rate/100] no. of years
 ROI for any year = {[(CM Price from total
machine till that year)] – [(total expenses like
operator salary till that year)]} / Depreciated
value of total machine, expressed as a percentage.
Parameters Basic Level of Technology Highest Level of Technology
SAM value for attaching patch pocket on 35 sec 10 sec
shirt
Production per day (shift of 8 hrs.) 816 pockets 2880 pockets
Production (No. of patch pocket per annum 816 x 300= 244800 2880 x 300=864000
per m/c)
Production Target 2880 pockets /day 2880 pockets /day
Number of machines required to meet 4 1
target production of 2880 pockets
Salary per operator per annum Skilled labor Rs. 35,00per Skilled labor Rs. 4500per month
month( 42,000pa) (54000pa)
Total salary ( A ) 42000 x 4 =168000 54000 x 1 =54,000
Cost of Machine 40,455 x 4 machines= Rs 26,55,000
Rs 161820
Annual Depreciation Rate 12% 12%
CM Price per patch pocket Rs 0.6 Rs 0.6
Yearly CM Price per machine Rs 244800 x 0.6 =146880 Rs 864000 x 0.6 = 518400
Yearly CM Price ( B ) 146880x 4= 587520 518400
Year 1 Depreciated value ( C ) (40,455 x 4) /1.12 =144482 26,55,000/1.12= 2370535
ROI= (B – A) /C 290% 19.5%

ROI Approx 5 month 5 years and 2 months

TECHNOLOGY FOR BELT LOOP ATTACHMENT
IN TROUSERS

 Belt loop attachment in jeans is one of the final operations to be done.

Therefore, it is of special significance, because making mistakes at this
level is certainly not acceptable when already a lot of investment in
terms of time and money has been put into the garment.

 The level of micro work of proper alignment and attaching can be

simplified by a semi-automatic machine. 

 Apart from cost effectiveness, quality is an added advantage which we

will not take into account for tangible profit analysis.
MACHINE FOR AUTOMATIC LOOP MAKING
TECHNOLOGICAL LEVELS
 Basic Level of Technology

The basic level of technology uses electronic lockstitch belt loop bartackers. The
operator first positions the pre-cut loop in the clamp and then picks up and positions
the waistband of the trouser below the clamp and then presses the pedal to start the
machine. The operator then repositions and tacks the other end of the same loop. The
operation cycle is repeated for the next loop.

 Advanced Level of Technology

In the advanced level of technology, a roll of pre-formed loops is loaded onto the
machine. The loop is automatically fed to the machine clamp with both ends trimmed
and folded. The operator only positions the trouser waistband below the clamp and the
machine sews both the ends of the loop in one operation cycle.  
 COMPARISON OF PROCESS
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FEATURES
 Automatic system
 Computer-controlled X-Y linear feeding system .
 An electric sliding mechanism is installed in the front hook
 Most machines are equipped with a direct-drive system that Improves
performance.
 Machines have sensors on clamp.
 Attachment procedure with the efficiency of nearly 1.2-2 sec/belt loop.
 The machine quickly and reliably disposes splices without any
delays in cycle time.
ROI FOR BELT LOOP MAKING MACHINES

Basic level of technology Highest level of

technology
Working days=26x12=312
Production per day 1500 belt loops 9000 belt loops
Production per day (shift of 300 jeans 1800 jeans
8 hrs)@ 5 loops per pair of
jeans
Production per annum,312 93,600 5,61,600
days
Cost output per annum 42120 2,52,720
(assume
cost belt loop attaching
per Jeans Rs. 0.45) [A]
CONTD…

Basic level of technology Highest level of

technology
Total operator’s salary / 36000@ 3,000 pm 42000@ 3,500 pm
annum (B)
Cost of one M/C, Rs 68,000 14,00,000
Depreciation 15% 15%
Total depreciated value of 59,130 12,17,391
machinery (C) after one
year
ROI for first year (A-B)/C 10.35% 17.31%
ROI 4th year 57.17% 105%
MISCELLANEOUS AUTOMATION
 Automatic Long Sleeve Close and Turn
Workstation

 DC electronic motor & microprocessor

controls
 Automatic start & stop
 Electronic active edge guiding system
 Automatic back latch
 Automatic sleeve turner
 Automatic thread cutter
 Automatic piece counter
 Automatic stacker
CONTD..
Features :

DESCRIPTION
An electronically controlled sleeve closing and turning station with automatic back latch. This unit
includes electronic active edge guiding system, providing the capability to sew either straight or
contoured seams.

OPERATION
The operator folds the sleeve, aligning the hemmed or cuffed end and presents it to the presser foot.
A photo cell senses the beginning edge, drops the presser foot and begins the sew cycle with an
automatic back latch. The electronic active edge guiding system controls the sleeve during the sew
cycle, while the operator prepares the next sleeve. When the seam is completed, the thread chain is
cut, the sleeve is turned and stacked automatically.

MACHINE CLASS
Most industrial over lock machines
PRODUCTION
Approximately 660 pieces long sleeve fleece per hour
Approximately 540 pieces long sleeve jersey per hour.
Production depends on material and size of parts.
AUTOMATIC BUTTON ATTACHING
AUTO PIPING MACHINE
THANK YOU