3D PRINTER

3D+LASER CUTTER
C3DT/C PRINTER

• 200mmx200mmx260mm Build volume

• Heated bed

• Auto Bed Leveling using inductive sensor and Aluminum bed

• Linear Rails (MGN12 250mm) on both X and Y axis

• Dedicated Parts cooling

• Runing KFB2.0/Marlin 1.1.9

• BuilkTak Flexplate System

• Bowden Extrusion with BondTech BMG

• 8080 Inc 1010/1020 frame

• Auto tensioning on X and Y Axis

• Double Rod Lead Screw Z axis using 12mm rods for extra stability.

• V6 All metal hotend with cooling adapter for Noctua cooling fan (ultra quiet)

• SD card reader as well as accessible USB port for direct computer access or OctoPrint
POWER UNIT

• The C3Dt/c printer is built, around the universal 12 Volt Power switching unit. It's important to get the universal one, as it has all the tapped holes in the exact same positions. This implementation relies on those. It also relies on the Power Unit's
cooling fan to force air in the controller unit. Granted, this feature is somewhat experimental as the air coming from the unit is not exactly cold. I still hope this offers better than passive cooling of the controller.

• You can clamp wires into the power switch using the tightening screws. If you insert wires directly, DO NOT tin them prior. Not tinning them creates better contact, less chance of them coming loose and thus less chance of arcing (with possible
smokey consequences). You can also opt for adding wiring disconnects and fork connectors for proper connections to both Power switch and Power/rocket inlet.

• The Electronics case is mounted on top of the Cover (the two holes with square caveties under them). Insert 2 square m3 nuts ( https://amzn.to/2HWYm0P ) into the socket and line them up with the holes. They should fit snug but it could help to add
some hot glue after inserting for keeping them in place.

• Before finishing up, it's probably a good idea to check if the live wire, really is live. Plugged in and turned on, test with a volt meter (if you're wiring live 110V, you really need to own, and know how to use, one). If you mistakenly swap the Live with
Neutral, thing will operate as expected but when you turn off your printer (via switch) power is still present.

• Before enclosing the Power unit, run the 12V output wires between the unit and the case. They will end up powering the KFB2.0 (out of sight).

• If you plan on adding additional 12 Volt features, it could be handy to add 2 spare +/- wires from remaining slots on the Power unit.

• Parts:

• 12V 30A DC Universal Regulated Switching Power Supply 1x

• Power Socket Switch 1x

• Wiring Quick Disconnects 7x (optional)

• Fork spade wire connectors 3x (optional)

• square m3 nuts 6x

• M3 16mm Hex Socket Head x5

PRINTED PARTS

• This C3Dt/c consists of about 25 printed components. Yes, I get the irony, a 3D printer is
needed to create this 3D printer. Been there, dealt with that by creating a 3D printer design
that contains no 3D printed parts whatsoever, added, here on Instructables.com: LAMINATED
3D PRINTER (FROM LASER CUT PARTS ONLY)
• All printed pieces are available (as a set only) on eBay https://www.ebay.com/usr/core3d.tech
• Parts of this printer can be printed using PLA (especially pieces like the casing) but I
personally prefer PETG. For the pieces close to the extruder and hot end, I PLA will not
suffice, due to the high operational temperature.You will need to use PETG or ABS for parts
like the Extruder holder/clamp and cooling fan bracket.
Z AXIS

• The Z axis for this implementation is made up from the Linear Screw Double • SCS12UU Linear Motion Ball Bearing
Rail Instructable. Follow the link to that one for more detailed instructions.
• Linear Motion Rod 12 mm x 400mm Shaft
• The length used for the Z axis is 520mm which allows for a print height of
about 290mm (not bad for a cantilever). The minimum length is 495mm but • Lead Screw 8mm
going beyond, allows you to do something extra on top.
• M5 10mm Hex Socket Head x16
• I strongly recommend, you use the available screw holes in the Nema
• M3 8mm Hex Socket Head x4
Connector and End Connector to screw these components to the rail using t-
nuts. The connector can slide up and down depending on pressure applied to • M3 16mm Hex Socket Head x5
them (a failing end-stop may push things out of wack).
• M3 25mm Hex Socket Head x2
• The Z Axis design comes with a Z end stop case but since this printer uses
Auto bed leveling with a proximity sensor it is not needed. • M3 T-nut 5x

• Before connecting the slider to the Bearing pillows, make sure you drop in 2 • Printed Parts (included with this step):
10mm (3m) screws through the back of the slider. These will allow you to add
t-nuts for extra strength holding the X-Axis. • Slider12mm.stl

• As for the orientation of the wiring, coming from the Stepper see the image • NemaConnector12mm.stl
enclosed. For the C2Dt/c Z Axis they point toward the power unit.
• EndConnector12mm.stl
• Parts:

• 8020 Inc 1010 495mm to 520mm

• Nema 17 Stepper Motor

• Flexible Coupling shaft

Y AXIS

• The Y axis will hold the bed and is based of the Generic Linear Actuator with Built-in Tension Spring • M3 8mm Hex Socket Head 11x (5 at a minimum)

• VERY IMPORTANT: Before assembling the entire Y Axis, note that it is attached to the frame with a corner plate. Part 3287 (Triple Slide-in Economy T-Nut) needs to be • M3 T-nut 11x (5 at a minimum)
inserted into the rail prior to putting on the nema and idler ends.
• End Stop (Makerbot style) 1x
• The 1010 extrusion should be at least 292mm. Any longer won't make a difference as the Linear rail on top is only 250mm. It dictates the motion range of the slider.
• Tension Spring 1x
• This Axis will be implemented WITH the built-in End stop (As part of the Nema Connector).
• GT2 Timing Belt
• The difference with the Generic Linear Rail is the Linear Adapter (LinearAdapterY-Axis.STL) which is customized to hold the Bed Frame.
• Printed Parts (included with this step):
• The Little bracket at the end of the Axis, The LinearRailBreak (at the end of the Linear Rail) is there to prevent the linear rail block to roll of the rails. If that happens the
bearing balls can fall out (pain in the .... to get back in).
• IdlerBracket1010_GT2_20.stl

• As for the orientation of the wiring coming from the Stepper see the image enclosed. For the C2Dt/c Y Axis they point toward the Z Axis.
• BeltGrip.stl

• Parts:
• NemaBracket1010_Endstop.stl

• 8020 Inc 1010 292mm

• LinearRailBreak.stl

• 8020 Inc Part 3287 1x

• LinearAdapterYAxis.stl

• Nema 17 Stepper 1x

• GT2 Timing Belt Pulley 20 Teeth Bore 5mm 1x

• Idler (20 theeth) 3mm bore 1x

• Linear Rail MGN12 250mm 1x

• M3 25mm Hex Socket Head 3x

• M3 16mm Hex Socket Head 2x

X AXIS

• Step 5: X Axis

• The X axis will hold the extruder Assembly and is based of the Generic Linear Actuator with Built-in Tension Spring

• The 1010 extrusion should be at least 363mm. Any longer won't make a difference as the Linear rail on top is only 250mm. It dictates the motion range of the slider.

• This Axis will be implemented WITHOUT the built-in End stop but instead will have a adjustable end stop case.

• The difference with the Generic Linear Rail is the Linear Adapter, which will be replaced by the Extruder Clamp (Linear Adapter Extruder Assembly.STL and LinearAdapter Extruder Clamp.stl).

• As for the orientation of the wiring coming from the Stepper see the image enclosed. For the C2Dt/c Y Axis they point toward the End-stop case.

• Parts:

• 8020 Inc 1010 363mm

• Nema 17 Stepper 1x

• GT2 Timing Belt Pulley 20 Teeth Bore 5mm 1x

• Idler (20 teeth) 3mm bore 1x

• Linear Rail MGN12 250mm 1x

• M3 25mm Hex Socket Head 3x

• M3 16mm Hex Socket Head 3x

• M3 8mm Hex Socket Head 11x (5 at a minimum)

• M3 T-nut 11x (5 at a minimum)

• Tension Spring 1x

• GT2 Timing Belt ~830mm

ASSEMBLY FRAME

• Now that the Power switch is wired and enclosed, all axis have been assembled, the frame can be put • 8020 inc 3287 2x
together.
• 8020 In Part 4151 1x
• The frame was designed to "wrap" itself around the 12V power switching unit. It's height of 50mm is
extremely close to the height of 1020 extrusion. • 8020 Inc Part 3382 15x

• There are a few 3D Printed parts that connect the Power Switch unit to the frame. These are not • M4 6mm Hex Socket Head 7x
necessarily for support or strength but simply to keep the Power Unit and Electronics in place.
• M3 6mm hex socket head 1x
• PowerUnit to 1020.stl: 3 M4 6mm
• Printed Parts (included with this step):
• Power to Y Axis.stl: 3 M4 6mm
• Power To Y Axis.stl
• Power to Y Axis Short: 1 M3 6mm, 1 M4 6mm
• Power To Y Axis Short.stl
• The Core support for the Cantilever printer comes from the Corner plates connecting the 1020 (160mm)
to both the Z Axis and Y Axis. The 10 Bolts may look like overkill but since this is a cantilever, there's only • PowerUnit to 1020.stl
so many points of support available. The 1020 Rail has two center holes tapped on one.

• parts:

• 8020 Inc 1020 160mm (One end both holes tapped)

• 8020 Inc Part 3390 15x

• 8020 In Part 4127 1x

ASSEMBLY X -AXIS

• The X axis fits (clicks) into the slider of the Z Axis. It can be an extremely tight fit but that's of course
for a reason. This will be the heaviest moving part on the printer and you don't want any wiggle room.
• I strongly recommend adding the two m3 hex socket screws (10mm) though the back and adding two t-
nut in front to further secure the X Axis.
• I've left room between the pillow bearing blocks to access these hex sockets screws for tightening.
• Word of caution, once the X axis is inserted into the Y Axis it can be challenging to move/remove. Based
on my implementation the distance between the X Axis Nema Connector and the Y Axis slider is 4.5mm.
The distance from the NemaConnector and the linear Rail is 69.5mm. Do not deviate too much as you
want to reach all 4 corners of your print bed as best you can.
ASSEMBLY- EXTRUDER+HOT END

• The C3Dt/c uses a bowden type extruder which means the stepper pushing the filament through the hot- • Noctua 40mm fan 1x
end is attached to the frame and not directly to the hot-end. This is done to keep the moving mass of the
hot-end to a minimum (especially relevant when printing with a cantilever printer). • Proximity Sensor Switch LJ12A3-4-Z-BX 1x

• For the extruder the C3Dt/c printer uses an BondTech BMG https://amzn.to/3aJgWo2 with bowden • M3 M3 6mm hex socket head 2x
adapter https://amzn.to/2RvBZmn
• M3 10mm hex socket head 5x
• The hotend assembly is a e3D all metal V6 with added parts cooling and a proximity sensor. I strongly
recommend this part is printed with either PETG or ABS for higher temperature tolerance. • M3 16mm hex socket head 4x

• I've added an image of the hot-end with it's loose parts. There's lot of pieces there but I think the image • M3 Square Nut 2x
speaks for itself.
• Printed Parts (included with this step)
• When you attach the proximity sensor make sure you mount it close to but slightly higher than the bottom
tip of the hot-end (at least by one millimeter). Don't mount it too high as that might push the hot-end into • ExtruderBracket.stl
the aluminum bed.
• FanAdapterWithPartsCooling.stl
• Parts:

• BondTech BMG 1x

• Bondtech Bowden Adapter 1x

• Nema 17 Stepper Motor 1x

• V6 All-Metal HotEnd 1.75mm Universal w/ Bowden Full Kit 12V clone (or better yet, get the real deal from
e3d genuine) 1x
• Parts:

• mini turbo fan 1x

• #2 3/8 inch screws 6x

• m3 hex nuts 4x

• M3 16mm Hex Socket Head x4

• M3 14mm Hex Socket Head x2

• M3 10mm Hex Socket Head x1

• M3 30mm Hex Socket Head x1

• Printed Parts (included with this step)

• e3dClamp (to accomodate miniFanAdapter)

• miniFanExhaust.stl

• MiniFanAdapter.stl

• Wire Stabilizer Clamp.stl

• Wire Stabilizer Support.stl

• 30mm_to_40mm_fanAdapter.stl
COST

• 35000-40000
LASER CUTTER

• Overview:

• The laser used is a 5 Watt diode laser. This makes it possible to cut or engrave cardboard, fabric and wood. The used materials may not be too hard (metal), too transparent
(plastic) or too thick (> 3 to 5 mm).

• I opted for a separate 12 Volt laser. Without the controller and power supply. The 3D printer already contains a 12 Volt power supply and the laser is controlled by the
mainboard of the printer. The omission of these parts made it possible to choose the slightly more expensive 5500mW laser, instead of the 2500mW laser.

• Converting the 3D printer to a laser cutter is relatively easy. It can be done by anyone who has assembled a 3D printer. First, the nozzle is replaced by a laser, using a self-made
3D printed holder. Then the laser is connected to the power supply and the mainboard. The laser circuit is optically sepparated from the 3D printer circuit. This makes the
modification mainboard independend, so the laser can be mounted on almost any 3D printer.

• Supplies:

• Anet A8 3D printer (or other: 12 Volt, dual fan)

• Alfawise 5500 mw laser (or other:TTL required)

• EL-817 optocoupler

• 330 and 470 Ohm resistor

LASER