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A BRIEF INTRODUCTION TO
FABRIC
POINTS TO BE COVERD Impulse
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1.INTRODUCTION TO TEXTILE

2. FLOW CHART OF SPINNING LINE

3. WIDING

4. WARPING

5. SIZING

6.DRAWING IN

7. WEAVING

8.DIFFERENT WEAVE DESIGN POSSIBLE ON WEAVING MACHINE

9. WEAVING MACHINE
 INTRODUCTION TO TEXTILE
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Textile refers to a general term applied to any manufacture from fibres, filaments or
yarns characterized by flexibility, fineness and high ratio of Length to thickness

FIBRE-

In term of textile term “fibre” refers to a unit of matter which is capable of being spun into yarn
or made into fabric.

CLASSIFICATION OF TEXTILE FIBRE-

1. Natural Fibres- Cotton ,Wool ,Flex ,Silk

2. Regenerated Fibres-Rayon ,Acetate

3. Synthetic Fibres- Polyester, Nylon, Glass

Classification of Textile Fibers Impulse
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Fibers

Semi- Synthetic/Man
Natural Made
synthetic
Viscose
Cotton Lyocell Polyester
Linen Modal Nylon
Wool Acetate Acrylic
Silk protein Spandex
Jute Glass
Flax
Kapok
Physical and Mechanical properties of Textile Impulse
Fibres- BE THE BENCHMARK
MAJOR TESTING DONE ON FIBRES

1. LENGTH DISTRIBUTION OF FIBRE

2. FINENESS OF FIBERS

3. MOISTURE REGAIN OF FIBRES

4. LONGITUDNAL AND CROSS-SECTON OF FIBRES

Conversion of fibers into Yarn Impulse
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Yarn is the term of continuous stand of textile fiber which is suitable for making
fabric.

CLASSIFICATION OF TEXTILE YARN-

1. Single yarn
2. Plied yarn
3. Fancy yarn
4. Cabled yarn
5. High bulk yarn Single& plied yarn Fancy Yarn

• Spinning is the process which is required to

convert the raw textile fibre into yarn.

• This needs to be done with the help of respective

textile machine processes to get the desired
outcome of the yarn.

Cabled Yarn High bulk Yarn

FLOW CHART OF SPINNING LINE (COMBED YARN) Impulse
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Collection of Fibre Bale
↓
Blow Room (LAP)
↓
Carding Machine(CARRDED SLIVER)
↓
Draw Frame(D/F SLIVER)
↓
Lap former(SMALL LAPS)
↓
Comber(COMBED SLIVER)
↓
Simplex (ROVING)
↓
Ring Frame(YARN)
↓
Auto Coner(YARN PACKAGE)
↓
Yarn Package Shipping
Basics function of Spinning process Machine-
Blowroom –
1.Opening of bale
2.Cleaning to remove dirt and broken seeds
3. Mixing or Blending of Bale
4. Lap or flocks formation:

CARD-(DRAFT-80-110)
1.To individualise the fibres.
2.To clean cotton thoroughly off the lighter dirt & trash.
3.Removing neps
4.To form sliver

DRAWFRAME-(DRAFT-7.5-8)
1.To straighten the curled and hooked fibres
2.To make the fibres parallel to their neighbouring fibres.
3.To reduce weight per unit length of sliver
4.To blend raw material of same hanks perfectly.

UNILAP-(1.4-2.4)
1.Imparting slight draft to the material
fed.
2. Calendar the material to form lap.
COMBING-(DRAFT 10-11)
1. To remove predetermined quantity of short fibres.
2. To remove neps in the fibre material.
3. To form the sliver having maximum possible fibre parallelisation.

ROVING FRAME/SIMPLEX-(DRAFT 10-15)

1.To draft the sliver to reduce weight per unit length.
2.To insert small amount of twist to strengthen the roving to prevent breakage during next
processing.
3. To wind twisted strand on the bobbin

RINGFRAME-(DRAFT 35-50)
1.To reduce the mass of the material by drafting until the required fineness is obtained.
2.To twist the drafted yarn by twisting to obtain maximum strength.
3.To wind the twisted yarn onto the bobbin by winding process for suitable storage, transportation
and further processing.
SPINNING OF MAN MADE FIBERS-
Basically there are 3 methods for man made spinning-

1. Melt spinning
2. Dry spinning
3. Wet spinning

1. MELT
SPINNING
The melted polymer is extruded from a spinneret
having holes forming a long strand of filament.
which is drawn and solidified by cooling (air is
commonly used), and then wound onto spools, or
processed further, such as by texturizing,
weaving, or braiding, to make a more complex
application

Melting temp- 280-290 C

Processing speed- >1000m/min
DRY SPINNING-

Polymer dissolved in a volatile solvent is introduced into

a heated drying chambers, where the solvent is
evaporate and fillament is obtained.

This process may be used for the production of Acetate,

Tri-acetate, Acrylic.

Temprature-400 C
Production speed- 200-400yds/min

WET SPINNING
Polymer powder is dissolved in a suitable solvent
and the polymer solution is extruded through
spinneret into a solvent-non solvent mixture
(coagulant bath)

Then washed and then stretched under wet and

dry condition to achieve desired fiber denier.

Temprature-40-70 C
Production speed- 3-20m/min
MAJOR TESTING DONE ON YARN Impulse
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1.Determination of Yarn Count

2.Determination of Yarn Evenness

3.Tensile Strength Testing

4.Twist Testing
 Impulse
Compact Yarn / Vortex Yarn BE THE BENCHMARK

 In COMPACT spinning, fibers are arranged in a

completely parallel and close position before imparting
the twist. This is the most important criterion for perfect
compact yarn. Compact spinning results in lower
hairiness and higher tensile strength, which decreases
yarn breakage dur­ing warping, weaving & knitting by
approx. 30%.

 In VORTEX spinning, each fiber is spun toward the

center of the yarn. Therefore, each fiber is secured in
the internal yarn layer which prevents the fiber from
sliding. This produces “a stable yarn with low hairiness“.
WARPING
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Warping is transferring many yarns from a creel of the single end BE THE BENCHMARK
package forming a parallel sheet of the yarn wound on to a beam.

OBJECTIVE OF WARPING
• It is used to expand the required quantity of warp yarn.
• It is used to expand the weave-ability of warp yarn during fabric manufacturing.
• It is used to make suitable warp yarn sheet for the next process named sizing.
• It is used to wind definite length of warp yarn in the warp beam.
DIRECT WARPING
SECTIONAL WARPING
Sectional Warping
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This warping method is mostly used for warping of multi plies yarn, BE THE BENCHMARK
multicolor warp, continuous filament yarns.

Since the warp ends are wrapped over the drum in number of
sections, so that warping with less no. of warp packages is possible
in this method.

DIRECT WARPING
In this method of warping, single colour (mono colour) in warping is used generally.

It is mainly used to prepare the warp of single ply yarn.

Multi-plies warp can also be used in this warping. 

The warp yarn from these beams is transferred on the weaver’s beam during sizing.
 SIZING
Sizing is process of application of sizing paste on to the beam which imparts
strength and increases the abrasion resistant so that the breakage in the yarn
threads will decrease during the further process.

Selection of sizing agents are based on type of fabric, environmental friendliness,

ease of removal, cost considerations, effluent treatment etc.
Objective of sizing
1.To protect the yarn from abrasion

2.To improve the breaking strength of the yarn

3.To increase smoothness of yarn

4.To increase yarn elasticity

5.To decrease hairiness

6.To decrease the generation of static electricity

 DRAWING IN

The drawing-in process comes just after the preparation of weaver’s beam. The weaver’s beam is
obtained warping /sizing

The drawing-in process mainly consists of two processes. The first process is called drafting and
second process is called denting.

DRAFTING
process of passing the end through the eye
of heald wire or harness according to the
draft (sequence of drafting the ends) is
called drafting”.

DENTING
denting is the process of passing the ends
through the dents of reed according to the
denting order of the fabric to be woven & it
is directly related to fabric density & width.
Weaving
Weaving is the action of producing fabric by the
interlacing of warp and weft thread. The warp
threads are placed along the length of the fabric and
the weft threads are placed along the width of the
fabric.
WEAVING LOOM MECHANISM
Primary Motions-

These are fundamental or essential mechanisms of loom. Without these

mechanisms, it is practically impossible to produce a fabric & for this reason
that these mechanisms are called ‘primary’ motions

1. Shedding mechanism 2. Picking mechanism 3. Beat-up

mechanism

beats or pushes the newly inserted

separates the warp threads into Passing weft thread from one length of weft thread (pick) into the
two layers or divisions to form a selvedge of the fabric to the other already woven fabric at a point
tunnel known as ‘shedding’ through the shed. known as “fell of the cloth”
 SECONDARY MOTIONS OF WEAVING LOOM MECHANISM
This mechanism is responsible to have an uninterrupted
manufacturing of fabrics during weaving on the loom.

TAKE-UP MOTION LET-OFF MOTION

• To wind the woven fabric on the cloth
roller with continuous progress of
weaving.
• To maintain uniform picks per inch
• To ensure uniform pick spacing through
out the fabric.
• To maintain the necessary tension upon the
warp.
• To unwind and deliver the required amount of
warp sheet from the warp beam .
• To influence the no. of picks per unit space in a
fabric being subsidiary to take up motion.
AUXILLIARY MOTIONS OF WEAVING LOOM MECHANISM

In order to produce a high-quality fabric, increase productivity of loom and to prevent

damages it is necessary to use some stop motions which is provided on the loom. They
are called as auxiliary motions.

Warp stop motion

Warp stop motion stop the loom when a drop wire fall as the result of warp end slack or break.

Weft stop motion

Weft stop motion enables to stop the loom when a weft thread breaks or gets exhausted.

Warp protector
Warp protector mechanism will stop the loom to prevent excessive damage to the warp threads, if
the weft carrier becomes trapped between the top and bottom of the shed lines and the reed. 

Temple
Temples helps to grip the cloth and hold it at the same width as the warp in the reed, before it is
taken up. It may be made of wood or metal.

Weft replenishment / Weft mixing motion

Weft replenishment ensures a continuous supply of weft yarn to the loom whenever supply
package exhausted. 
TYPES OF WEAVE

PLAIN WEAVE Matt Weave Twill Weave Herringbone

4/1 satin 1/4 sateen Dobby Jacquard

 Classification of weaving Machines
A Weaving Machine is a device used to weave cloth and tapestry. The basic
purpose is to hold the warp threads under tension to facilitate the interweaving of
the weft threads. The precise shape of the loom and its mechanics may vary, but
the basic function is the same.
Shuttle Looms

The shuttle loom is the oldest type of weaving loom which uses a shuttle which contains a
bobbin of filling yarn that appears through a hole situated in the side. The shuttle is batted
across the loom and during this process, it leaves a trail of the filling at the rate of about 100
to 150 rpm

Shuttle less looms

In shuttle less loom the weft is driven with the help of either of one mechanism that is
projectile, rapier, water jet or air jet. These looms have more production rate as compared to
the shuttle looms. Filling rate start from 250 – 1500 RMP
Shuttle less looms
• Rapier Loom ( Rmp – 250-600)
• Air jet Loom (Rmp – 500- 1000)
• Water jet Loom ( Rmp 500-1200)

Rapier for weft insertion

Jet Nozzle for weft insertion

ON LOOM PROCESS
CLASSIFICATION OF LOOMS ON THE BASIS OF THEIR WEFT INSERTION METHOD &
ADVANTAGE-DISADVANTAGE
Fabric Defects

 Missing End Miss Picks Starting Mark

Reed Marks

Streaks Thick Yarn ThinYarn Broken Pick

MAJOR TESTING DONE ON FABRIC

1. Fibre content Test

2. Fabric weight (GSM)

3. Dimensional Stability

4. Color Fastness

5. Tensile strength

6. Tearing strength
 
7. Abrasion Resistance

8. Seam Slippage

9. ph Test
 How to Measure Fabric Defect
4 Point system for fabric inspection is widely used in apparel industry for fabric quality inspection.

Criteria for giving penalty points

In 4 point system fabric quality is evaluated by unit points/100 sq. yds.  

Points / 100 sq. yd. = (Total points in roll * 36 * 100)/ (Fabric length in yards * Fabric width in inches)

Normally fabric roll containing 40 points per 100 square yard are acceptable.
Thank You