AL

EMBROIDE
RIES
OF
INDIA
 Introduction
• A tradition is believed or behavior passed down within a group or
society with symbolic meanings. Embroidery is an art of
decorating cloth with needle work using different types of threads
to create appealing designs. Embroidery of India includes dozens
of regional embroidery styles varying by different region and has
a wide variety due to the use of different materials. Various types
of Indian embroidery contains different aspects of regional
specialty like Kantha embroidery of West Bengal, Kashida from
Kashmir, Phulkari from Punjab, Chikankari from Uttar Pradesh,
Kasuti embroidery from Karnataka, etc.
 EMBROIDERY OF INDIA
• PHULKARI OF PUNJAB
• KASHIDA OF KASHMIR
• KASUTI OF KARNATAKA
• CHIKANKARI OF LUCKNOW
• KANTHA OF BENGAL
• KUTCH WORK OF GUJARAT
• ZARDOZI WORK
• GOTTA WORK OF RAJASTHAN
• PIPLI AND PATCH WORK OF ORISSA
• SUJANI &KASHIDA OF BIHAR
Embroidery of India
• Embroidery in India includes dozens
of embroidery styles that vary
by region and clothing styles.
Designs in Indian embroidery are
formed on the basis of the texture and
the design of the fabric and the stitch.
The dot and the alternate dot, the
circle, the square, the triangle, and
permutations and combinations of
these constitute the design.
Sari from Bengal India, 20th century,
Honolulu Museum of Art
Blue mural embroidery, Udaipur,
Rajasthan, India
Banarasi sari' from Varanasi (Banaras),
silk and gold-wrapped silk yarn with
supplementary weft brocade (zari)
Kutch cushion Embroidered Woman's
embroidery hanging, Kutch shirt from
(western India) Kutch,
Gujarat,
 Phulkari (Punjab)
• Phulkari embroidery began in Punjab in the 15th
century and continues today. The word Phulkari comes from two
Sanskrit words, “phul” which means flower and “kari” which
means work. Taken together, Phulkari means ‘flower work’.
Phulkari and Bagh were the traditional embroidered shawls from
rural Punjab. Sometimes, Phulkaris and Baghs were given to a
bride as a gift at the time of her wedding by her maternal
mother. It is closely related to the life of a Punjabi girl and a
symbol of happiness and prosperity and ‘Suhag” (marital well-
being) of a married woman. The base material of Phulkari is to
execute hand-spun and hand-woven Khaddar or Khadi that is
dyed in red, yellow, blue, green and darker shades.
 Soft untwisted silk thread (floss silk)
known as ‘Pat’, is used for the
embroidery using geometrical
motifs designs. The colours of the
thread are red, green, golden
yellow, orange, blue, white etc. The
basic stitch employed for Phulkari is
darning stitch, which is done from
the reverse side of the fabric and
creates a beautiful effect on the
fabric by changing the direction of
Traditional Embroidery the stitches.
of different states
Phulkari work
 Kashida (Kashmir)
• Kashida is an embroidery style of Kashmir that is practiced by
men folk of the region. The intricate needlework is inspired from
the charming natural surroundings of Kashmir. In the 15th
century the Sultan Zain-Ul-Abidin (1420-70 AD) became a
patron to the art of Kashidakari. Under his royal patronage,
weavers were brought from Turkistan and Persia, to introduce
different styles of weaving techniques that are still currently
used in shawl manufacturing. The motifs used in Kashida,
inspired from nature, including flora and fauna of the region of
Kashmir. Birds like magpie, kingfisher; butterflies;flowers like
lotus, blossoms, creepers, chinar leaves, maple leaves; fruits
and vegetables like ghobi, mangoes, almonds, cherries, grapes
and trees are the most common themes. 
 The base material for Kashida is wool, Cotswold or silk-wool using
the colour is usually white, off-white or cream but now a days
variety of colours are using like blue, yellow, purple, red, green,
maroon, rani pink and black using Wool, silk, and cotton
embroidery threads to execute the work. The main stitches
employed for Kashida are darning stitch, chain stitch,stem stitch,
and satin stitch.
• There are three styles of embroidery followed in Kashmir: Sozni is intricate
embroidery that use stitches like fly stitch, stem stitch and darning stitch.
The aari style, also called Zalakdozi, (hook or aari to fill-in motifs with
chain stitch). In Kashmiri couching, zari thread is laid on the fabric along a
pattern and is held in place with another thread. Kashmiri embroidery is
primarily done on shawls and regional garments like Phiran (woollen
kurtas), Gabba (woolen floor rugs) and Namdaah (woollen rugs) as well as
stoles using chain stitch embroidery. Nowadays, Kashida is also used to
decorate household items like bed covers, cushion covers, lampshades,
bags and other accessories.
Kashida embroidry
 Kasuti (Karnataka)
• Kasutiis a traditional form of folk embroidery, practiced in the state of
Karnataka, India. The name Kasuti (Kannada) is derived from the words
Kai (means hand) and Suti (means cotton), indicating an activity that is
done by hand on cotton. It has been a main occupation and source of
income for many rural women from that region. Kasuti embroidery involves
four kinds of stitches (menthi, gavanti, negi and murgi). ‘Menthi’ is cross
stitch resembling fenugreek seed. ‘Gavanti’ is double running stitch used
for creating vertical, horizontal or diagonal lines. ‘Negi’ is a simple running
stitch produces a weave-like effect and ‘Murgi’ is a zigzag stitch. The
motifs are inspired by everyday objects, religion, architecture, flora and
fauna, and culture of this region etc. using a combination of horizontal,
vertical and diagonal stitches, and require lots of patience; skill and
intricacy since both the side of the embroidery look alike. The embroidery
threads are drawn from the old silk sari borders and executed by counting
the yarns on the base material that is why the motifs are not traced on the
fabric.
• In ancient times, this
embroidery is done on hand-
woven dark colour cloth
usually black with cotton
threads in different colours like
red, orange, purple, green,
yellow and blue. Traditionally,
the embroidery was done on
Ilkal sari’s border and other
apparel items like women’s
blouse and accessories like
handbags, mobile pouches,
belts etc. Presently Kasuti
embroidery is also done on
home products like cushion
covers, bedcovers, curtains Kasuti embroidery
etc.
 Chikankari of Utter Pradesh
• Chikankari embroidery, known as Shadow work by using herringbone
stitch from the wrong side of the fabric and creates shadow on the right
side and at the same imparts an outline to the motif. It is an integral part of
the life and culture of Lucknow and recognized, worldwide. The name
Chikan has been derived from the Persian word 'Chakin' or 'Chikeen'
meaning a kind of cloth with needle work. Chikan is said to have originated
as a court craft during the reign of Mughal emperor Jahangir, by his wife
Noor Jahan. Traditionally, the Chikankari was exclusively done on white
fabric (known as Tanzeb) using white thread. The motifs are inspired from
nature’s flora motifs including flowers, jasmine, rose, and birds like
peacock, parrots and lace-like patterns.
• There are three types of stitches used in
chikankari: Flat stitches, such as Taipachi (running
stitch), Ghaspatti (fill with petals and leaves),
Pechani (running stitch in regular manner), Bakhia
(herringbone stitch, done on both side of the
fabric) and Thurs (cross stitch done on the right
side of the fabric). Embossed stitch such as Hool
(button hole), Gitti (button hole and satin), Murri
(French knot), Phanda (French knot), Janjira
(chain stitch). Jali work is the most striking feature
of chikankari, creates delicate net effect on the Chikankari work
fabric. Earlier brass, bone, copper or iron needles
were used whereas now days, only steel needles
are used for fine embroidery, was done on white
tanjeb; the muslin from Dacca, using only white
untwisted cotton or sometimes tussar silk for
embroidery. It is used on all imaginable garments.
 Kantha of Bengal
• It is a domestic and folk art of Bengal, done on the old and discarded
garments like layers of dhoti and sari, which stitched together with simple
running stitch in white thread., provides protection from cold. ‘Kantha’
means ‘rags’ in Sanskrit, which reflects the fact Kantha embroidery is
classified into different types such as Arshilata kantha, baiton kantha,
Durjani kantha, Lep kantha, Oaarkanta, Rumal kantha, and Sujni Kantha
depending on the use of the finished products in the art. Basically, this
embroidery involves simple running stitch. Usually, the motifs are Universe
like Padma or lotus, Gods and Goddesses, animals like duck fish peacock;
floral & geometric patterns.
Kantha was mainly used as quilts and also offered to special guests to sit
or sleep on it and include bags for keeping money and book cover. It was
presented to the bride and groom as well as used to wrap valuables and
gifts. Other uses of kantha embroidery, is done on single layer of white or
colourful fabric base of stoles, dupattas, saris and suit materials.
Modern Naksi kantha Kantha
Embroidery from Gujarat (Kutch & Kathiawar)
• It is believed that the kutch embroidery was taught to mochis (the
shoemakers around 300 years ago by a Muslim phakeer of Sindh. The
embroidery is done with multi-coloured embroidery threads,
cotton or silk. The stitch used for the embroidery is used depending on
the style namely chain stitch, herringbone stitch, satin stitch, interlace
stitch, buttonhole stitch and darning stitch. There is also use of mirrors
that are fixed on the fabric with an embroidery stitch. Another technique
used in Gujarat is appliqué where scraps of fabric are cut into a form
and stitched onto the base fabric. Differentstyles of kutch embroidery
are carried out by tribal communities of Gujaratsuch as Mochi Bharat on
satin fabric,Ahir Bharat on Khaddar fabric, Kanbibharat on cotton,
RabariBharat on khaddar or khadi of maroon colour.
• Kathiawar embroidery was introduced by
kathi, the cattle breeders, the wanderers
brought by Karna- the famous warrior of
Mahabharat. This embroidery is colourful
lavishly done on ghagras, choli, choklas,
chandarawas and torans using base
fabric of cotton with colourful threads.
Different styles of kathiawar embroidery
are Heerbharat, Abhla Bharat, and Moti
Bharat.The motifs used in Gujarati
embroidery are mostly taken from flora
and fauna follows as flowers, creepers,
trees, peacocks, parrots and elephants.
Besides flowers and animals, human Embroidery of Gujrat
figures in different poses like dancing
women and men are also seen in some
styles of Gujarat embroidery.
 Zardozi of India
• Zardosi embroidery has been in existence in India from the time of the
Rigveda. The word 'Zardozi' is made up of two Persian terms, zar+dozi,
Zar means gold and Dozi means embroideryand it was also known as
Bharatkam of India.
It involves making elaborate designs, using gold and silver threads.
Further adding to the magnificence of the work are the studded pearls and
precious stones. The embroidery is done on different fabrics like velvet,
satin and silk with a variety of zari threads and materials like badla (the
untwisted wire), salma (stiff finely twisted circular wire) gijai (twisted
metallic wire), dabka (zig-zag coiled wire), sitara (small circular disc),
pearls and coloured beads. The different stitches used in Zardozi are chain
stitch, stem stitch and satin stitch.
• There are two embroidery styles namely Karchobi and Kamdani under
Zardozi. In Karchobi, the fabric is clamped on wooden frame and elaborately
embroidered to create decorative home furnishings and ornate apparel.
Kamdani is lighter embroidery done on apparel like dupattas and scarves
without clamping the fabric on any frame.The embroidery continues
traditionally done on one of the most favored ornamentation for decoration of
apparel such as lehenga choli, purses, sari etc. Presently, Zardozi is also
explored on different types of base material like jute to develop trendy
products like bags, bedcovers, cushion covers, curtains, palanquin covers,
trappings for elephants, and decorative fashion accessories.
Conclusion: Various traditional embroideries of different states of India are
described as an aesthetic feeling ofcolourful decoration on various  
types of fabric using colourful threads, designs and motifs behind
each of many artistic creations influenced from nature and the
surroundings of different states.
Sari from India
(probably Benares),
late 19th or early
20th century, silk
with metallic thread
(Zari) Close Shot of
the Zardozi
(Zardouzi)
Embroidery
Cushion
 Gota (Jaipur, Rajasthan)
• It is a form of appliqué in gold thread, used for women’s
formal attire. Small pieces of zari ribbon are applied onto the
fabric with the edges sewn down to create elaborate patterns.
Lengths of wider golden ribbons are stitched on the edges of
the fabric to create an effect of gold zari work. Khandela in
Shekhawati is famous for its manufacture. The Muslim
community uses Kinari or edging, a fringed border
decoration. Gota-kinari practiced mainly in Jaipur, utilising
fine shapes of bird, animals, human figures which are cut and
sewn on to the material.it is very famous in rajasthan as well
as in many other parts of the world.
Kota sari with gota patti
 Pipli (Odisha)
• Appliqu or Pipli work originates from the Piplivillage in Odisha
 and some parts of Gujarat. It is called Chandua based on
patchwork: brightly coloured and patterned fabric pieces are
sewn together on a plain background mostly velvet along with
Mirror and lace work. Designs include Hindu gods, human forms,
animals, flowers and vehicles. Originally chandua work was
done to built the chariots for Puri Rath Yatra and was also used
for parasols, canopies and pillows for the Rath Yatra. Nowadays
different home décor items can be found, such as lamp shades,
garden umbrellas and bed covers and utility products like Hand
bags, Wallets, Files.
 Patchwork
• Patchwork or "pieced
work" is a form of 
needlework that
involves sewing
together pieces of 
fabric into a larger
design. The larger
design is usually based
on repeating patterns
built up with different
fabric shapes (which
can be different colors). Traditional
These shapes are Korean
carefully measured and patchwork 
 Uses
• Patchwork is most often used to make quilts,
but it can also be used to make bags, wall-
hangings, warm jackets, cushion covers, 
skirts, waistcoats and other items of clothing
. Some textile artists work with patchwork,
often combining it with embroidery and
other forms of stitchery.
• When used to make a quilt, this larger
patchwork or pieced design becomes the
"top" of a three-layered quilt, the middle A
layer being the batting and the bottom layer
the backing. To keep the batting from patchwork
shifting, a patchwork or pieced quilt is often  representin
quilted by hand or machine using a running
stitch in order to outline the individual g Little
shapes that make up the pieced top, or the
Kashidakari
• Kashidakari, more popularly known as Kashmiri
embroidery, evolved under the patronage of Persian and
Mughal rulers. While not much is known about the
origins of this craft, legend has it that a Persian sufi
saint brought the skill to Kashmir. What started as a
skilled craft, soon became a source of domestic
employment as farming in the harsh winters was not
possible. Inspired by the scenic locales of Kashmir,
Kashidakari draws heavily from the flora of the state.
However, human and animal figures are not a part of
this style of embroidery. A unique feature of Kashidakari
is the Kashmiri tea pot. Known for its simple chain
stitches, this embroidery done mostly on silk and wool is
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