BAHIR DAR UNIVERSITY

Ethiopian Institute of Textile and Fashion Technology

PRODUCING NEW FABRIC STRUCTURE BY COMBINING S AND

Z TWILL AND STUDYING THEIR PROPERTIES
Prepared by ID
Seid Ahmed Ali…..…………………………..…0703821
Mohammed Ahmed Ali…..…………………….0703762
Sofia Hualis Salo….…..…………………………0703850
BSc Thesis in Textile Engineering
Under the supervision of
Mr. Getaneh A.
  March, 2019
BAHIR DAR,
ETHIOPIA
 Content
Chapter one
Introduction of the topic
Justification and problem Statement
Objectives
 Significance ,Scopes and limitation
Chapter two
Literature review
Chapter three
Materials and Methods
Chapter Four
Work plans and budget analysis
References
 Introduction
Woven fabrics are made by interlacing two sets of yarns at right angles to each other.

Woven structures are classified into the following categories:

Simple structures

Compound structures

Type weave

 Fundamental weaves

Derivative of fundamental weave

Compound weave

Jacquard weave
 twill weave and their feature
The order of interlacing which causes diagonal lines of warp and weft floats to be formed in the
fabric is called twill weave
The main feature of twill weave are

A twill weave is characterized by diagonal lines of warp and weft floats on the face of the fabric.

Twill line may be from lower lift to upper right (Z-twill) or from lower right to upper lift(S-twill) corner.

Smaller repeat twill is (3). It means take at least three end and three picks produce twill weave.

Three or more held shaft are required for shedding.

Appearance it will design can be seen from both sides the fabric.

Diagonal lines run at angle vary between (15-75) degree but in a continuous or regular twill is 45 degree
 Cont.…
Classification of twill weave 
Twill weaves can be classified from four points of view:
According to the face yarn (warp or weft):
 Warp face twill weave: 4/2 S, etc.
 Weft face twill weave: 1/3 Z, etc.
 Double face twill weave: 3/3 Z, etc.
According to the nature of the produced twill
line:
 Simple twill weave: 1/2 S, 3/1 Z etc.
 Expanded twill weave: 4/3 S, 3/2 Z
 Multiple twill weave: 2/3/3/1 S, etc
According to the face yarn (warp or weft):
 Warp face twill weave: 4/2 S, etc.
 Weft face twill weave: 1/3 Z, etc.
 Double face twill weave: 3/3 Z, etc.
According to the nature of the produced
twill line:
 Simple twill weave: 1/2 S, 3/1 Z etc.
 Expanded twill weave: 4/3 S, 3/2 Z etc.
 Multiple twill weave: 2/3/3/1 S, etc.
 Statement of the Problem
One of the basic things that all peoples need a cloth and this cloth is a flexible woven
material which consists of at work of natural or artificial fibers. The main purpose of
the cloth is that cover and protect the human body and also needs aesthetic attributes
followed by functional aspect. Twill is one types of weave that gives aesthetic
appearance

There are some problem which encountered in twill weave like

surface structure lie in one diagonal lines

less dimensional stability

less luster and comfort than sateen weave.

 cont.….
To minimize this problem twill derivative weave is needed. But there are some problems also
still exist in this twill weave derivatives like:

Un balanced extensibility in width and length wise direction of the fabric

 More prone to raveling

 Its diagonal line doesn’t make regular twill

The design not reversible and more number of shaft needs

Horizontal zigzag twill Horizontal hearing bone twill

 Objectives

General objectives
 Producing fabric structure by combining S and Z twill and studying their properties
Specific objectives
 To Produce fabric structure by combining S and Z twill in both warp and weft direction
 To increase the aesthetic appearance of the fabric
 To balance extensibility in width and length wise direction of the fabric
 To minimize raveling
 To make regular diagonal twill line and design reversible
 To minimize number of shaft needed
 To study the new fabric design properties
 Significance
Benefits
Have aesthetic appearance
The design appearance can be seen from both sides the fabric
have balanced extensibility in width and length wise direction of the fabric
Diagonal lines run at angle 45 degree hence, a continuous or regular twill
Twill lines are formed on both sides of cloths
Its fabric property will better
Beneficiaries
The fabric will be applicable for all people depending on the fabric properties
after studied.
 Scopes
Scope of the study

This project is only concerned about producing fabric structure by combining 3/2S
and 3/2 Z twill and studying some the basic fabric properties like:
1. Measurement of fabric structural 3. Fabric objective evaluation
parameter testing
Fabric density  Fabric stiffens test
 Fabric GSM  Fabric drape test
 Yarn crimp in fabric 4. Fabric physical property testing
 Air permeability test
2. Fabric strength testing
 Tensile strength testing
 Tear strength testing
 limitations

There are some limitation for the production of the combined s and z twill like:-

The structure of the fabric is only produce in dobby sheading mechanism (i.e.
impossible to produce in tappet sheading)

The whole fabric properties may not be tested

 Chapter Two-Literature Review

Introduction
 Twill is a type of textile weave that has a pattern of diagonal parallel ribs. This technique is
done when the weft thread crosses over one or more warp threads and then under two or more
warp threads and so on.
Twill fabric description
The fewer interlacing in twill allow the yarns a greater range of motion and thus can move
more freely. Usually is softer, more pliable, and drape better than plain-weave textiles.
Alternatively, because fewer crossings, the yarns can be set closer together, producing a higher
thread count fabric that is heavier and therefore can be more durable and resistant to wind and
water
 cont.…
Fabric properties
Woven fabrics used as technical textiles are subjected to forces, which are parallel and
perpendicular to fabric plane also. The effects of forces, which are parallel to fabric plane,
and behaviours of fabric against these forces can be evaluated by measuring breaking strengths
and elongation at breaks of fabrics along both warp and weft directions.
Classification of twill weave [5].
A. According to the way of construction
Warp way twill weave: In warp way twill weave warp float run in the warp direction
Weft way twill weave: In weft way twill weave weft float run in the weft direction.
B. According to the direction of twill lines on the face of the fabric 
S-Twill: 
When the twill runs from the lower right to the upper left corner, the twill is known as a left-
hand twill. It is produced by downward displacement of the interlacing points, if the starting
point is bottom left corner or upward displacement of the interlacing points, if the starting
point is bottom right corner.
 cont.…

Z-Twill: 
When the diagonal line runs from the lower left corner to the upper right corner, the twill is
known as a right-hand twill. About85% of all twill-woven fabrics are right-hand twill. The
alignment of twill Iine is parallel to the middle portion of 'Z', so it is called Z - twill.

C. According to the face yarn(warp or weft) 

Warp face twill weave : which have a predominance of warp yarns on the face of the fabric
Weft face twill weave: which have a predominance of weft yarns on the surface of the fabric
Double face twill weave: Even sided twills expose an equal amount of warp and weft yarn on
each side of a fabric
D.According to the nature of the produced twill line 
Simple twill weave: Each warp end is raised over or lowered under only one pick in the
repeat
 cont.…

Expanded twill weave: Each warp end is raised over or lowered under more than one
adjacent pick in the repeat

Multiple twill weave:In each repeat, there are at least two warp twill lines or two weft twill
lines of different width.

Balanced and unbalanced twill  

Derivatives of Twill Weave

 Diaper design
• There are many derivatives of twill are given bellow;
Zigzag/waved/pointed twill weave  Broken twill
Hearing bone twill  Combined twill
Diamond design
 Materials and methods
Materials

Material and Apparatus need to produce the structure


Thread (100% cotton and count 16Nm for both)


Warp thread and


Weft thread


Drawing in and tying in machine


Sulzer weaving machine

Cutter machine
 cont….

The Materials, Apparatus, Equipment’s need to test the property of the

fabric
1. Measurement of fabric 2. Fabric strength testing
structural parameter
 Tensile strength testing
Fabric density Tensile strength tester
Fabric GSM  Fabric
 GSM Cutter  Scissors, ruler
 Weight balance
Tear strength testing
Yarn crimp in fabric  Digital Elmendorf tester
 Crimp tester machine  Scissor/cutter
 Bench mark  Sample template
 Scissors  Pendulem Weights
 Ruler
 cont.…

3. Fabric objective evaluation testing  Digital balance

Fabric stiffens test  Scissors
 Shirley stiffens tester 4. Fabric physical property testing
 Scissors Air permeability test
 Fabric thickness tester  Electronic air permeability tester
 Weighting balance  Scissors
Fabric drape test  Fabric
 Cusick drape tester
 Different diameter temples
 Different diameter paper rings f
 Fabric
 Methods
Prepare the draft, design and pig plan for the structure (both side combined s
and z 3/2 twill)

Given 390cm*500cm  In 1 repeat = 10 ends

Warp thread End /dent =2 ? =3120 ends
Dent/cm =4 =3120/10=312 repeat
Ends /cm =8 There are 5 shafts are needs to
Drawing in width = reed width produce this structure
= 390cm 3120end = 5 shaft
 Total no of ends = drawing in width *ends/dent ? = 1 shaft = 624end
Drawing and tying *dent/cm + salvage  Their for 624held eye is
=390*2*4 =3120 end required in one shaft
 cont.…
Preparation of weft thread
 

Process the stracture in the sulzer loom in KTSC

Fabric property testing

We will Take five samples for each test using random sampling technique
Data and statistical analysis
Expected fabric structure
 Work plans a
Months February March April May June
1 2 3 4 1 2 3 4 1 2 3 4 1 2 3 4 1 2 3 4
Weeks
                                       
Idea generation and topic selection

                                       
Proposal writing and presentation

                                       
Warp and weft preparation
                                       
Combined 3/2 (S+Z) twill weave
in the loom
                                       
Fabric property testing and
analysis
                                       
Progress writing and presentation

                                       
Data and statistical analysis
                                       
Documentation
                                       
Submission and presentation of
final project
 Budget analysis
Name of item Quantity Unit price in birr Total price in birr

Transport 3 630 1890

Warp and weft 3 67 201/day*2=402
preparation

Operating loom 1 67 67
cost

Fabric price      
Total      
 Reference

[1]. http://www.historyofclothing.com/textile-history/history-of-textile
[2]. https://www.oldbullshorts.com/twill-weaveColorfast Level - Medium
[3] By Heather Marie Akou https://fashion-history.lovetoknow.com/fabrics-
fibers/twill-weave
[4]. Mohammad Mobarak Hossain, Eshita Datta, Salvia Rahman. A Review on
Different Factors of Woven Fabrics’ Strength Prediction. Science Research. Vol. 4, No.
3, 2016, pp. 88-97. doi: 10.11648/j.sr.20160403.13
Received: May 8, 2016; Accepted: May 19, 2016; Published: June 13, 2016
[5]. https://textilelearner.blogspot.com/2015/06/comprehensive-study-on-twill-
weave.html
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