Apparel Manufacturing Engineering-II

Topics: Interlining & Lining

Prepared by
Md. Ramij Howlader
Assistant Professor, TE
BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology
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Interlining:
 Interlining is a trim that is used between two layers of
fabrics in certain garment parts.
 It is attached by sewing or fusing action.
 Generally interlinings are soft, thick, and flexible.
 It is made of cotton, nylon, polyester, wool and viscose
or blend fibers.
 Shrink resist finish, crease resist finish are applied on
it for better performance.
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Functions of Interlining:
 To reinforce garment parts.
 To make the garment parts lofty & insulated.
 To retain the shape of the garment part.
 To improve garment performance.
 To increase aesthetic value of the garment.
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Types of Interlining:
1. There are three types of interlinings based on construction--
a) Woven Interning
b) Knitted Interlining
c) Non-Woven Interlining
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2. There are two types of interlinings based on attachment

method ---
a) Non Fusible/Sewn Interlining
b) Fusible Interlining
a) Non Fusible Interlining:
 It is fixed with the garment components by sewing
machine.
 No adhesive is used.
 Only sewn parts are attached with the garment.
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Advantage Disadvantages:
 To make flame retardant  Quality is not good.
garments.  Not suitable for large
 Simple and easy production.
technique.  Not available in
 No elaborate machine is market so we need to
required. prepare it.
 Possible to use in steel or  More time required.
re-rolling or highly heated  High work load and
industry. labor cost.
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b) Fusible Interlining:
 It is fixed with the garment components with adhesive.
 Adhesive is present on one surface in dried form.
 Fusing machine or iron is used for attachment.
 Three factors are important during attachment---
• Temperature
• Pressure
• Time
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Advantages Disadvantages
 Appearance, shape and quality are  High temperature is
same as others. required.
 Available in market.  Special care is needed
 Cheap. during attaching
interlining.
 Fusing time is less.
 Labor cost is low.
 Production is high.
 Overall performance is better than non
fusible interlining.
 Easy technique and no need of
especially skilled operator.
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Interlinings are available in the market in following names -

 Non fusible woven interlining
 Fusible woven interlining
 Non fusible non woven interlining (paper interlining)
 Fusible non woven interlining (paper interlining)
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Classification of Fusible Interlining-

 Polyethylene coated interlining

 Polyamide coated interlining
 PVC coated interlining
 Polyester coated interlining
 Polypropylene coated interlining
 PVA coated interlining
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Differences Between Fusible & Non Fusible

Interlining
SL Non Fusible Interlining Fusible Interlining
Attached to the fabric by Attached to the fabric by means of
1
means of sewing. fusing.
2 No adhesive is required. Adhesive is present on one surface.
3 No temperature is required. High temperature is required.
4 Processing time is more. Processing time is less.
Not suitable for large
5 Suitable for large scale production.
production.
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Fusing Processes:
There are four types of fusing processes ---
 Single Fusing
 Reverse Fusing
 Sandwich Fusing
 Double Fusing
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Single Fusing:
During attachment, fabric is placed at lower side and
interlining is kept on it with adhesive surface touching the
fabric. Application
of Heat &
Pressure for
a certain
time

Interning

Fabric
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Reverse Fusing:
During attachment, fabric is placed at upper side and
interlining is kept below it with adhesive surface touching
the fabric.
Application of
Heat &
Pressure for a
certain time

Fabric

Interlining
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Sandwich Fusing:
In this process two interlinings are attached in single
operation. At first fabric is placed on the table and
interlining is placed at upper side of the fabric. Again
another interlining is placed at upper side of the
previously placed interlining and then another fabric.
Two interlining resin must be in opposite direction.
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Application of
Heat &
Pressure for a
certain time

Fabric

Interlining
Interlining
Fabric
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Double Fusing:
This is the fusing of two pieces of interlinings to a single
fabric in one operation.

Application
of Heat &
Pressure

Interlining 2 Interlining 1

Fabric
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Coating:
Coating is the process by which thermoplastic resin is
deposited or secured on to the base cloth of interlining.
Types of Coating:
 Scatter Coating
 Dry dot coating
 Paste Coating
 Film Coating
 Emulsion Coating
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Fusing Equipment

 Hand Iron
 Flat bed fusing press
 Continuous fusing press
 High frequency fusing press
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Hand Iron

 In this process interlining are fused by hand iron.

 It is very difficult to control the time, temperature and
pressure by hand iron.
 As a result the bond make by fusing is not stable for long
time.
 The bond between interlining and fabric may be displaced
during washing of garments.
 It is a cheap process for fusing.
 Primary fusing of small parts of garments are done by hand
fusing iron.
 In tailoring purpose it is mostly used.
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Flat Bed Fusing Press

 Generally this type of machine
consists of two beds, one is static bed
and another is running bed.
 Static bed is buck and the running
bed is called head.
 Buck surface is covered by a soft
beddings such as fabrics which are
lubricated by PTFE. As a result it can
removed melted resin, dirt or stain.
 Sometimes heat generating system is
provided on the buck.
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 At first, the part of garment which to be fused spread flatly on

the buck and then resinated interlining surface is placed on it.
 After that, the head is placed down on the buck by switching
on and applied required pressure and temperature smoothly.
 With completing the predetermined time of fusing, the head
is descends from the buck.
 There are two systems are available of coming head and buck
such as vertical action and scissor action.
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Quality Parameters of Fusing:

 Appearance
 Bond strength
 Proper fusing
 Shrinkage
 Fabric color
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Defects of Fusing

Name of Description Causes

Faults
Striking When the resin is passed Not properly controlling
back through the lower part of pressure and
of the fabric is called temperature.
striking back.
Striking When the resin is passed Not properly controlling
through through the base fabric of pressure and
of interlining during the temperature.
fusing is called striking
through.
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Lining:
 Lining is generally a functional part of a garment, a
trim.
 Sometimes it is called underlining.
 They are available in warp knit or woven structure.
They are made from cotton, polyester, nylon, viscose,
wool etc.
 Lining material can be used for small parts e.g. pocket
or for complete garments.
It can be used in coat, jacket , shorts, pants, kids wear
etc.
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Purposes of Lining
To improve hang and comfort.
To add insulation.
To cover the inside of a garment of complicated
construction to make it neat.
To hide body from being observed in case of clear shell
fabric.
To add value to garment.
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Difference Between Lining & Interlining:

Subject Lining Interlining

Used inside of the garment or

1. Placement garment components that is next to Used between two layers of fabric.
skin.
Attached either by sewing or by applying
2. Attachment Attached by sewing.
heat and pressure.

Sometimes shrink resist finish or crease

3. Finishes Finishing is not necessary. resists finish are required to improve its
properties.

Coating is used on inside surface of

4. Coating No coating is used.
fusible interlining.
To increase hang and comfort of To support, reinforce & retain actual shape
5. Purposes
the garment. of garment components.
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Fiber Used in Lining:

 Natural fibers are rarely used to construct linings due
to high cost.
 Synthetic fibers are now the most widely used for
garment lining.
Woven fabrics (plain, twill and satin) and warp knit
fabric are widely used for lining.
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Requirements of Lining Fabric

 Should not be cause any type of discomfort.
 Should have low cost.
 Surface of fabric should be smooth or plain.
 Strength of fabric should be same or higher than the
upper fabric.
 Should not be causes any color bleeding.
 Yarn density in fabric should be very high.