Vehicle Maintenance

Prof.K.Vijayan Department of Automobile Engineering Anna University, MIT Campus Chrompet,Chennai-44

POINTS TO BE TAKEN CARE IN ESTABLISHING AN AUTOMOBILE SERVICE STATION/ WORKSHOP

1. SERVICE ENTRANCE: i The approach to service reception should be smooth.

2. RECEPTION / DIAGNOSIS (SERVICE ADVISER): i. ii. Warm and friendly. Careful listening to customers requests, correct diagnosis.

3. FILLING REPAIR ORDER AND ESTIMATES (SERVICE ADVISER): i. ii. Accurate preparation of repair orders. Clear explanation of work and Cost Estimate, Agreement obtained.

4. WORK ALLOCATION / INSTRUCTIONS ( FOREMAN / TECHNICIAN) i. ii. Work allotted for efficiency ( considering technicians Skill level, Completion Time, Outside work Required). Accurate Work instructions ( Ex. Nature of problem, repair procedure, proper steps, completion time, etc..)
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POINTS TO BE TAKEN CARE IN ESTABLISHING AN AUTOMOBILE SERVICE STATION/ WORKSHOP

5. REPAIRS ( TECHNICIANS) i. ii. Reliable work, quickly accomplished. Work performed neatly, observing proper safety rules.

6. FINAL INSPECTION ( FOREMAN / CHIEF TECHNICIAN ) i Quality of work checked ( Correct items repaired )

7. DELIVERY PREPARATION (SERVICE ADVISER) i. ii. Check on what work was done. Clean inside and outside vehicle.

iii. Prepare documentation. 8. DELIVERY (SERVICE ADVISER) i. ii. Explain details ( work done, charges, spare parts) Receive payments.

9. POST SERVICE FOLLOW UP (SERVICE ADVISER) i. ii. Check with customer regarding work quality. Enquire about customer satisfaction.
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BASIC INSTRUMENTS NEEDED FOR TUNING

FOR ENGINE:
1. Compression Gauge 2. Vacuum Gauge 3. Tachometer.

FOR FUEL SYTEM:

1. Fuel pump pressure Gauge

FOR IGNITION SYSTEM:

1. Power Timing light 2. Dwell meter 3. Voltmeter 4. Ohm meter

FOR EMISSION CHECKING

1. Exhaust Gas analyzer

FOR ELECTRIC SYSTEM:

1. Voltmeter 2. Ammeter ( 0 to 80 A) 3. Tachometer 4. Hydrometer 5. Battery Load tester.

FOR COOLING
1. Coolant Thermometer

VEHICLE MAINTENANCE
ENGINE TUNING:

1. Loose spark plugs, start engine to blow out carbon and dust, shut off engine and remove plugs 2. Test engine compression 3. If the compression pressure is less, perform engine service that will eliminate the trouble. If the compression is alright re-install the spark plugs 4. Remove the distributor cap, clean it, visually check for carbon tracks and corroded terminals, chips, etc. replace if not in good condition. 5. Clean and inspect distributor rotor and replace if it is not in good condition 6. Inspect the high tension leads. If they are cracked or insulation damaged, replace them 7. Check distributor centrifugal advance 8. Test the vacuum advance
< Contd. On next slide> 5

ENGINE TUNING:

9. Check the distributor contact points and clean them. 10.Re-install distributor cap and replace wiring 11.Check battery state of charge, water level and hold down clamps 12.Check battery cables for damage, corrosion and loose connections 13.If the battery is over-charged or under-charged, check the dynamo (alternator) and regulator 14.Check drive belts and tighten or replace them as required 15.Check the intake manifold bolts for tightness to proper specifications. Even a slight leak will reduce engine performance 16.Check fuel lines for tight connections

< Contd. On next slide>

ENGINE TUNING:

17.Check the cooling system for leaks, weak or collapsed hoses, correct coolant level 18.Check and adjust accelerator linkage 19.Check crank-case ventilation system 20.Remove carburetor air cleaner and check choke valve. Clean or replace air filer element if necessary 21.Check and adjust contact point dwell and ignition timing 22.Adjust idle speed and mixture 23.Check the lube oil dipstick 24.Check the working of lights and horn. Adjust the head lamp for proper focusing 25.Check steering system for easiness
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STEPS INVOLVED IN SERVICING THE IGNITION SYSTEM WITH CONTACT POINTS

1. Clean, re-gap or replace spark plugs 2. Clean and inspect the ignition coil. If the tower (TOP) is cracked, replace the coil 3. Replace the primary wire ( coil to distributor and coil to switch) if it is broken. Make sure that the connections are clean and tight 4. Clean and inspect the distributor cap 5. Examine the rotor 6. Twist the distributor shaft in the direction or rotation and release. It should snap back. If it does not, the distributor advance mechanism must be re-paired

< Contd. On next slide>

STEPS INVOLVED IN SERVICING THE IGNITION SYSTEM WITH CONTACT POINTS

7. Inspect the contact points, replace them if necessary. Check and set the gap. 8. Put a small amount of cam lubricant ( white silicon lube ) on distributor cam. 9. Check and set the dwell using a dwell meter. 10.Adjust the timing using a timing light and tachometer 11.Check whether the advance mechanisms works using the timing light.
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SERVICING OF SPARK PLUGS

1. Remove the H.T. wire from spark plug. To do this, slightly twist the rubber protector boot which partially covers the plug, To break the seal, grasp the boot and pull it away from the plug with steady even pressure 2. Mark each wire with the cylinder no. (use a paper tape) 3. Remove any foreign material from around the plug hole by wiping with a rag or blowing air 4. Remove the spark plugs and gaskets and keep them in order by which they are removed. An isolated plug showing an abnormal condition indicates that the problem is with that cylinder. 5. Wipe off the exterior of the plug and inspect for proper sealing

< Contd. On next slide>

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SERVICING OF SPARK PLUGS

6. Check for burned electrodes and dirty, fouled or cracked insulators. 7. If new plugs are installed, make sure that they are of the correct type. 8. Adjust the gap if necessary by bending the ground electrode. (use spark plug gauge) 9. To clean the plug wash it with a petroleum solvent to remove oil film 10. Dry the plug, use an abrasive type cleaner for the best cleaning job 11. Clean the threads with a wire brush 12. Blow out all abrasive particles with compressed air 13. Use a thing stiff blade to clean the space between the plug shell and insulator 14. Scrape out all carbon particles. Turn the plug upright and shake the deposits out Repeat until the plug is thoroughly clean. < Contd. On next slide>
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SERVICING OF SPARK PLUGS

15. Blow out the remaining dirt with compressed air 16. Widen the plug gap by bending the ground (Side) of electrode so that an ignition point file may be inserted between the electrodes. 17. File the electrodes, until all the carbon is removed and the tip of the central electrode is flat across the top. 18. Adjust the gap to correct specification 19. Ensure that the plug seating surface in the head is clean 20. Install the plug 21. Tighten the plugs using a torque wrench to correct specification Most 14mm plugs have torque values approx. 4kg-m < Contd. On next slide>

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SERVICING OF SPARK PLUGS

22. If torque wrench is not available, tighten the plug finger tight, then using a socket wrench tighten it approx half a turn 23. Inspect the plug wires. If insulation is cracked, soaked or brittle, replace the wire. 24. Clean the distributor cap 25. Re-install the plug wires to the same cylinder from which they were removed

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SERVICING OF THE DISTRIBUTOR

1. Remove the distributor cap by snapping the hold down clips 2. Inspect the cap, wipe inside of the cap. Cracked, chipped or carbon tracked caps must be replaced. 3. If any of the metal terminals is broken or badly burned, replace the cap. Slightly corroded or blackened terminals can be cleaned with sand paper 4. Remove the rotor, visually check for cracks, burning or corrosion of the metal tips or mechanical interference with the cap. 5. Check mechanical advance springs and counter weights. Turn the distributor shaft in the direction of rotation and then Release the shaft. It should snap back. If sluggish the springs are to be replaced.

< Contd. On next slide>

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SERVICING OF THE DISTRIBUTOR

6. Check the vacuum advance Press your fingers against the contact breaker assembly Move the base in the direction opposite to the shaft rotation. The base should swivel without binding. 7. Inspect the contact points for build-up and crater spots, alignment, colour and wear Dirty points may be cleaned with a few strokes of a fine cut contact point file. Blue burned points indicates a bad capacitor. It is customary to replace capacitor whenever new contact points are installed. 8. Check for proper contact face alignment.

< Contd. On next slide>

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MISALIGNMENT OF CONTACT POINTS

CONTACT POINTS CENTERED

MISALIGNMENT OF CENTRES

MISALIGNMENT OF FACES

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SERVICING OF THE DISTRIBUTOR

9. Check and adjust the point-gap. Turn the engine until the rubbing block on the movable point is on the high point of the distributor cam lobe. This will provide the maximum point opening. 10. Measure the point gap with a feeler gauge Change the gap to specified value by loosening the contact attachment screw Most gap settings vary from 0.015 to 0.02 11. Apply a single drop of distributor can lube oil to one of the cam lobes. Do not over-lubricate 12. Install the rotor and attach the distributor cap 13. If a dwell meter is available, check the dwell with the engine idling. Re-adjust the point gap until the correct dwell reading is obtained

< Contd. On next slide>

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COOLANT SYSTEM PROBLEMS AND CAUSES

ENGINE OVERHEATING: 1. Loss of Coolant 2. Defective thermostat 3. Defective Water Pump 4. Collapsed Radiator Hose 5. Excessive rust and scales 6. Obstructed air passage through radiator 7. Late Ignition Timing 8. Combustion leak into Cooling system 9. Improper coolant mix 10. Defective temperature gauge. ENGINE RUNS TOO COOL: 1. Defective thermostat 2. Defective gauge.
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FUEL SYSTEM PROBLEMS AND CAUSES

CARBURETTOR FLOODING: 1. Worn needle and seat. 2. Leaky float. 3. Excessive Fuel pump pressure. 4. Improper float adjustment.

ROUGH IDLE: 1. Improper idle mixture. 2. Poor Compression. 3. Intake Manifold leak. 4. Defective spark plug wires. 5. Cracked distributor cap. 6. Stuck PCV valve.
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FUEL SYSTEM PROBLEMS AND CAUSES

STUMBLING DURING ACCELERATION: 1. Defective accelerator pump. 2. Improper adjustment of acceleration pump. 3. Ignition misfire.

SLUGGLISH PERFORMANCE: 1. Late ignition timing. 2. Too rich or too lean mixture 3. Defective advance mechanism.

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IGNITION SYSTEM TROUBLES AND CAUSES

ENGINE MISFIRES AT ALL SPEEDS: 1. Defective plug wires. 2. Cracked distributor cap. 3. Fouled spark plug. 4. Burned valves. ENGINE MISFIRES DURING ACCELERATION: 1. Defective plug wires 2. Fouled or worn plugs 3. Burned contact points 4. Partially shorted contact points 5. Open capacitor 6. Poor primary circuit 7. Carburetor problems
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IGNITION SYSTEM TROUBLES AND CAUSES

ENGINE MISFIRES AT HIGH SPEEDS: 1. Insufficient dwell angle 2. Carburetor problems.

HARD STARTING: 1. Burned contact points. 2. Improper ignition timing 3. Defective ballast resistor 4. Low battery 5. Poor choke action 6. Open capacitor 7. Ignition timing too much advanced
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STARTING SYSTEM PROBLEMS AND CAUSES

BATTERY NOT HOLDING CHARGE: 1. Internal defect of battery 2. Dirt on terminals / loose terminals 3. Electrical leakage / shorts 4. Excessive electrical usage with car stopped / idling 5. Battery not used for long periods BATTERY ALWAYS UNDER CHARGED: 1. Defective alternator / generator 2. Low voltage regulator setting. 3. Infrequent or slow driving with heavy electrical loads 4. Excessive charging circuit resistance 5. Sulphated battery 6. Too many electrical accessories
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STARTING SYSTEM PROBLEMS AND CAUSES

BATTERY USES EXCESSIVE WATER: 1. High voltage regulator setting 2. Sulphated battery 3. High temperature SLOW CRANKING SPEED: 1. Excessive starter circuit resistance 2. Dragging starter armature 3. Shorted armature or field 4. Excessive engine friction 5. Worn starter brushes STARTED SPINS WITHOUT ENGAGING: 1. Defective Bendix drive 2. Dirt or burr on starter shaft
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STARTING SYSTEM PROBLEMS AND CAUSES

STARTER CLICKS WITHOUT CRANKING: 1. Defective solenoid switch 2. Open starter cable 3. Defective starter STARTER SWITCH OR SOLENOID CHATTER: 1. Poor battery connection 2. Defective solenoid 3. Excessive starter circuit resistance NO CRANKING, NO SOLENOID CLICK: 1. Defective starter or ignition switch 2. Broken wire solenoid or switch 3. Defective solenoid or switch
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CHARGING SYSTEM PROBLEMS AND CAUSES

NO CHARGE RATE: 1. Defective alternator / generator 2. Defective voltage regulator 3. Open or grounded field wire 4. Open circuit 5. Worn or stuck brushes LOW CHARGE RATE: 1. Regulator out of adjustment 2. Defective regulator 3. Excessive field circuit resistance 4. Defective alternator / regulator 5. Worn brushes 6. Sulphated battery.
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CHARGING SYSTEM PROBLEMS AND CAUSES

HIGH CHARGE RATE: 1. Regulator out of adjustment 2. Defective regulator 3. Defective battery 4. High battery temperature 5. An accessory drawing excessive current even when the engine is not running

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PROBLEM : ENGINE WONT START

DUE TO PRIMARY CIRCUIT:

1. Burned or oxidized ignition points 2. Ballast resistor burned or open 3. Ignition points not closing 4. Breaker arm binding on pivot post, preventing closing of points 5. Breaker arm spring weak or broken 6. Breaker arm distorted or bent 7. Dirty ignition points 8. Primary lead connection loose 9. Primary winding open 10. Open ignition switch circuit

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PROBLEM : ENGINE WONT START

DUE TO SHORT CIRCUITED PRIMARY CIRCUIT: Grounded primary coil winding, grounded ignition switch or lead will cause excessive current flow and will usually cause wires to burn

POSSIBLE CAUSES FOR GROUNDED PRIMARY CIRCUIT: 1. Ignition points not opening or closing due to improper adjustment 2. Ignition points not opening due to worn rubbing block on breaker arm 3. Faulty insulating bushing on breaker arm 4. Cracked or faulty insulator at distributor primary terminal 5. Grounded condenser 6. Distributor-to-coil lead grounded 7. Primary coil winding grounded
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PROBLEM : ENGINE WONT START

DUE TO FAULTY SECONDARY CIRCUIT: 1. Corroded spark plug cable terminals 2. Cracked insulation on cables (H.T.) 3. Ignition coil weak or inoperative 4. Moisture on ignition coil, terminals, distributor cover, spark plug porcelain or on distributor. 5. Improper type of spark plugs 6. Cracked distributor cap or burnt carbon brush in the cap 7. Improper connection to spark plugs ( not correct as per firing order) 8. Spark plugs damaged, dirty or wet, porcelain cracked or gaps improperly adjusted 9. Rotor contact spring bent or broken 10. Distributor rotor grounded 11. Distributor cap center terminal broken or missing
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PROBLEM : ENGINE WONT START

DUE TO BATTERY: 1. Battery rundown 2. Terminal loose or badly corroded 3. Improper ground 4. Battery cable undersize DUE TO EXCESSIVE FUEL SUPPLY ( FLOODING ): Accumulation of liquid fuel in the inlet manifold as well as cylinder. The engine wont start until the rich mixture formed by flooding is pumped out REASONS FOR FLOODING: 1. Choke not operating properly 2. Automatic choke not properly set 3. Float level not properly set 4. Dirty worn or faulty needle valve and seat
31 < Contd. Next slide>

5. Float sticking or rubbing against side of fuel bowl 6. Leak in the float allowing fuel inside 7. Fuel pump pressure too high DUE TO INSUFFICIENT FUEL SUPPLY: 1. Carburetor inlet needle stuck in its seat due to gum in fuel 2. Float level too low 3. Clogged inlet filter at carburetor 4. Faulty or insufficient capacity fuel pump 5. Fuel pump strainer closed 6. Faulty fuel pump bowl gasket 7. Flexible line twisted or restrained 8. Fuel line from tank clogged or restricted 9. Vent in fuel tank filler cap clogged or restricted 10. Worn fuel pump camshaft lobe.
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PROBLEM : HARD STARTING OF ENGINE

WHEN THE ENGINE IS HOT: Hard starting of the engine under hot condition is mainly due to oversupply of fuel (flooding) In rare cases, an ignition coil may lose its efficiency when it is hot and cause ignition failure. WHEN ENGINE IS COLD: Apart form the conditions listed under the engine wont start the following conditions are also to be checked: 1. Choke setting too lean 2. Fuel may have kerosene, water or ice 3. Ice in fuel lines 4. Engine cranked too slowly or wont turn because: i. Engine oil too thick in sub-zero weather

ii. Battery too weak due to very low temperature

33 <Contd.in next slide>

PROBLEM : HARD STARTING OF ENGINE

5. Another possibility even though remote: Water pump is jammed with ice which will interfere with the cranking of engine Fan belt is tight

DUE TO VAPOUR LOCK: Flow of fuel to the mixing chamber is stopped ( locked) by the formation of vaporized fuel pockets or bubbles caused by overheating the fuel by hot fuel pump, hot fuel lines or hot carburetor High ambient temperature, hard driving, defective engine cooling and high altitudes are contributing to vapour lock.

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PROBLEM : HARD STARTING OF ENGINE

AFTER LONG PERIOD OF NON USAGE OF VEHICLE: 1. More volatile components in the fuel have evaporated and the remaining ones are not sufficiently volatile to form a combustible mixture 2. Low or rundown battery 3. Corrosion of engine moving parts creating high friction 4. Moving parts stuck by gummy oil 5. Engine valves stick open due to gummy deposits

These troubles are more in humid climate and near salt water

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REASONS FOR STALLING OF ENGINE

1. Engine idle speed set too low 2. Large air leakage in intake manifold 3. Ignition points need attention 4. Vapor lock 5. Over supply of fuel ( flooding) 6. Valves set too tight 7. Needle / seat of carburetor in-operative 8. Contaminated fuel 9. Choke sticking or improperly adjusted 10. Faulty ignition system 11. Spark plugs damp/ dirty or incorrect gap 12. In-operative distributor advance 13. Restricted exhaust system
36 <Contd. Next slide>

REASONS FOR STALLING OF ENGINE

14. Burnt, warped or sticking valves 15. Low compression 16. Engine over heating 17. Loose or corroded wire connections 18. Incorrect idle mixture adjustment 19. Incorrect carburetor float seating 20. Leaking PCV ( if provided)

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REASONS FOR HIGH ENGINE OIL CONSUMPTION

1. External oil leaks 2. Leaky piston rings (Due to wear) 3. Leaky piston rings ( Due to sticking caused by gummy deposits). Free the rings with suitable solvent. Blue smoke indicates badly leaking rings 4. Worn pistons and cylinders 5. Cylinder block distorted by tightening cylinder head bolts unevenly 6. Excessive clearance between the valve stems and guides 7. Worn main bearing / Con-rod bearing 8. Oil pressure too high ( wrong setting of oil pressure relief valve or clogged relief passage) 9. Loose piston pins 10. Grade of oil too light ( hard driving on hot day will also consume more oil) <Contd. Next slide>
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REASONS FOR HIGH ENGINE OIL CONSUMPTION

11. Clogged crank case ventilation system 12. Intake manifold leak together with valve door gasket leak 13. Oil level too high 14. Piston ring gaps not staggered 15. Incorrect ring size 16. Piston rings out of round, broken or scored 17. Ring grooves or return slots clogged 18. Rings stuck in grooves 19. Compression rings installed upside down

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BATTERY PROBLEMS
BATTERY REQUIRES FREQUENT CHARGING a) INSUFFICIENT CURRENT FLOW TO BATTERY 1. Defective generator / alternator 2. Incorrect voltage regulator setting 3. Regulator contacts oxidized or burnt 4. Sulphated battery 5. Corroded battery terminal 6. Regulator not grounded 7. Slipping fan belt 8. Loose connections / grounds in lighting or ignition Circuits 9. Blown regulator fuse 10. Wrong size generator rectifiers 11. Shorted or open alternator rectifiers 12. Grounded stator wire alternator
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BATTERY PROBLEMS
b) EXCESSIVE STARTING LOAD CAUSING ABNORMAL CURRENT FLOW FROM BATTERY 1. Frequent use of starter motor 2. Excessive use of starter motor ( Difficult starting) 3. Faulty starter motor 4. Excessive engine friction

c) EXCESSIVE LIGHTING LOADS d) ABNORMAL ACCESSORY LOADS e) INTERNAL DISCHARGE OF BATTERY

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STARTING PROBLEMS
STARTER WONT OR ROTATES SLOWLY It the lights become dim or go out when the starter switch is closed, the battery may be too weak to operate the starter. In this case a push cannot be push started if the battery is completely dead because alternators retain no residual magnetism. DUE TO STARTER CIRCUIT 1. Low battery 2. Connections loose, dirty, corroded or broken at battery terminals, starter switch terminal or battery ground strap. 3. Short circuit across starter terminals. 4. Neutral start switch out of adjustment or defective

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STARTER PROBLEMS
DUE TO STARTER SWITCH 1. Starter switch stuck 2. Defective solenoid 3. Starter switch makes poor contact due to dirt, corrosion, bent parts or weak parts or weak spring 4. Starter switch fails to close circuit because of sticking or broken contact parts. 5. Neutral safety switch out of adjustment of adjustment of defective. ( for cars with automatic transmission ) DUE TO ARMATURE AND FIELD CIRCUITS: 1. Armature windings burned out, shorted, grounded or open circuited. 2. Field coils burnt out, shorted or grounded. 3. Broken wire in armature winding or brush pigtail lead. 4. Loose dirty or corroded connections in field circuit. < Contd. on next slide>
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STARTER PROBLEMS
DUE TO COMMUTATOR AND BRUSHES: 1. Brush pigtail leads loose or broken 2. Starter brushes cracked crosswise 3. Arm type brush holder sticks 4. Brush sticks in sliding brush holder 5. Bent brush holder causes poor contact 6. Starter brushes worn badly 7. Brush leads shorted or have loose, dirty, broken or corroded connections 8. Poor brush contact due to weak or broken springs 9. Brushes coated with oil 10. High ( raised) mica between commutator segments prevent brush contact 11. Commutator bars loose and / or solder melted 12. Commutator dirty, corroded or broken
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STARTER PROBLEMS
DUE TO ARMATURE BINDING: 1. Loose field poles 2. Armature shaft frozen in bearings 3. Loose end plates 4. Windings thrown out of armature slots 5. Armature locked magnetically to field poles because of loose bearing or worn/ bent shaft. 6. Bendix spring retaining screw loose and jammed against housing 7. Cracked / distorted drive housing 8. Starter misaligned 9. Jamming due to burred teeth on pinion / ring gear 10. Starter pinion ( sliding gear type) jams due to incorrect endwise clearance.
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STARTING PROBLEMS
DUE TO ENGINE RESISTANCE: 1. Piston sticking to cylinders in overheated engine 2. Pistons stuck to cylinders due to gummy oil 3. Jammed generator armature 4. Combustion chamber full of water 5. Solid ice in water pump 6. Broken engine moving parts 7. Due to cold weather and too heavy oil

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TRANSMISSION LAYOUT

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CLUTCH PROBLEMS
CLUTCH DRAG: When the clutch pedal is depressed fully, the clutch disc is not completely released. As a result the clutch continues to rotate being dragged by the rotation of the engine flywheel. Clutch drag causes clashing of gears especially when shifting from NEUTRAL to LOW or REVERSE 1. Pedal free travel ( play) is excessive. As a result pedal cannot disengage the clutch 2. Worn clutch linkage 3. Mal-adjustment of release lever 4. Clutch disc warped out of true 5. High spots on clutch facings 6. Broken or loose clutch facings 7. Loose rivets in facing < Contd. On next slide >
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CLUTCH DRAG continued 8. Clutch disc hub binds on the splined clutch shaft due to bent shaft fit burred splines or splines covered with gummy oil or dirt 9. Clutch disc wobbles due to broken springs in hub 10. Clutch disc hub out of true 11. Clutch shaft bent 12. Worn out bearing ( spigot ) 13. Transmission out of alignment with flywheel housing 14. Clutch pressure plate warped thus throwing release lever out of adjustment 15. Flange of clutch cover out of alignment with flywheel due to loose attaching screws, bent flange, dirt between flange and flywheel 16. Grease on clutch facing 17. Engine misaligned due to broken engine mounts 18. Loose flywheel housing to engine attaching bolts 19. Release fork pivot worn
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CLUTCH PROBLEMS
CLUTCH SLIPS: Clutch disc slips whenever the pressure plate fails to hold it tight against the flywheel on severe slips engine speed will rise above normal on full throttle. When there is no free play of the pedal, clutch starts slipping. Other causes of slipping are: 1. Driving with foot resting on pedal 2. Binding or sticking of pedal or its linkages 3. Binding or sticking of clutch disc hub on clutch shaft 4. Binding of clutch release lever 5. Sticking of release bearing sleeve 6. Weak or broken clutch pressure springs 7. Worn clutch facings 8. Facing covered with dirt, grease or oil. < Contd. On next slide >
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clutch slip continued 9. Facing burnt 10. Release levers improperly adjusted 11. Pressure plate sticks. CLUTCH GRABS: A clutch is said to grab when it engages too abruptly. The usual causes are: 1. Loss of tension in cushioning plates in the rim of the steel clutch disc. These plates cause the clutch facings to bulge outward slightly. The resulting springy action of the facings aid in producing a smooth, gentle clutch engagement. 2. Use of wrong type of clutch facing 3. Grease or oil on facings 4. Clutch springs too stiff 5. Momentary binding in clutch linkage while clutch being engaged 6. Exposed rivet head due to excessively worn facing or loose rivets
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clutch problems continued CLUTCH CHATTERS: If a clutch chatters while it is being engaged, the trouble is caused by rapid gripping and slipping. The usual causes are: 1. Somewhat sticky clutch friction surfaces due to gummy lubricant 2. Clutch friction surfaces damp or wet 3. Weak clutch springs 4. Slight binding in clutch linkage during engagement. 5. Slight binding of pressure plate during engagement 6. Loose engine mounts.

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clutch problems continued CLUTCH PEDAL PULSATES: A nervous pedal when slight pressure is applied on pedal with engine running. Pulsation will stop with more pressure on pedal. Causes are: 1. Loose or improperly adjusted engine mounts 2. Collar on clutch release sleeve does not run true due to bent clutch shaft or clutch shaft may be misaligned between crank shaft and transmission. 3. Clutch release levers not adjusted to uniform height CLUTCH RATTLES: This condition occurs when engine is idling with transmission neutral. Causes: 1. Excessive clearance at pressure plate driving lugs 2. Anti-rattle springs or retractor springs or release levers weak, broken or disconnected 3. Looseness in clutch pedal operating linkages 4. Loose flywheel
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clutch problems continued NOISE WHEN CLUTCH PEDAL IS DEPRESSED: 1. Clutch release bearing dirty, worn, damaged, broken or inadequately lubricated 2. Clutch shaft bearing or bushing in crankshaft worn, damaged, broken or inadequately lubricated. 3. Clutch shaft rear bearing at front end of transmission worn, dirty or lacks lubricant NOISE WHEN PEDAL IS RELEASED: 1. Misalignment of transmission with engine causing slight wobble of clutch disc hub. ( noticeable @ engine idling or @ LOW speeds ) 2. Disc hub loose fir on splined clutch shaft 3. Disc damper springs weak or broken 4. No pedal play

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clutch problems continued 5. Weak or broaden pedal return spring 6. Weak of broken release sleeve spring 7. Clutch linkage sticks 8. Clutch pedal sticks 9. Clutch release sleeve sticks 10. Clutch release fork binds 11. Bad clutch release bearing 12. Loose flywheel

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PROBLEMS OF GEAR BOXES

SLIPPING OF GEARS AT HIGH / SECOND GEAR (3 SPEED): 1. Gear box mounting bolts loose 2. Control rods interfere with engine mounts or clutch release lever 3. Control linkages doesnt work freely 4. Gear does not engage fully 5. Damaged main shaft spigot bearing 6. Clutch gear bearing retainer broken or loose 7. Dirt between the Gear box housing and clutch housing 8. Misalignment of transmission 9. Worn or broken synchronizer assembly 10. Weak springs in Gear box cover SLIPPING OF GEARS AT LOW / REVERSE GEAR: 1. First / Reverse gear damaged 2. Improperly mated splines at inside of first
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STICKING IN GEAR:

PROBLEMS OF GEAR BOXES

1. Clutch not releasing completely. 2. Low lubricant level 3. Corroded levers 4. Tight main drive gear spigot bearing 5. Defective synchronizer sleeve

FORWARD GEARS CLASH:

1. Clutch not releasing completely 2. Weak or broken springs in synchronizer units 3. Worn cone surfaces

NOISE IN FORWARD GEARS:

1. Insufficient or incorrect lubricant 2. Gear box misaligned 3. Main drive gear or bearings worn or damaged 4. Counter gear bearings worn or damaged 5. Synchronizer worn or damaged
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PROBLEMS OF GEAR BOXES

HARD SHIFTING: 1. Improper clutch or adjustment 2. Worn or damaged shift links 3. Incorrect lubricant 4. Synchronizer worn or broken JUMPING OUT OF GEAR: 1. Maladjusted, worn or loose shift linkage 2. Gear box loose or misaligned 3. Worn spigot bearing 4. Excessive end play in main drive gear 5. Bent main shaft 6. Worn or broken synchronizer 7. Detent notches worn 8. Weak detent spring
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Gear box

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TROUBLES WITH FULLY SYNCHRONIZED GEAR BOXES

NOISES: When diagnosing gear noise, note the gear position in which the noise occurs. Noise in all gear positions may be due to worn or damaged constant mesh gears or bearings. Noise in only one gear can usually be traced to the particular gear involved. Other causes of noise are: 1. Misalignment due to loose mounting bolts 2. Clutch housing misalignment 3. Dirt or metal chips in lubricant 4. Not enough lube oil in gear box 5. Improper lubricant

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TROUBLES WITH FULLY SYNCHRONIZED GEAR BOXES

NOISE IN ALL GEARS: 1. Incorrect lubricant level 2. Incorrect type of lubricant 3. Counter gear bearings worn or damaged 4. Counter gear worn or damaged 5. Clutch gear bearing worn or damaged 6. Main shaft bearing worn or damaged 7. Clutch gear worn or damaged 8. Transmission misalignment or loose 9. Synchronizers worn or broken 10. Main shaft gears worn or damaged

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TROUBLES WITH FULLY SYNCHRONIZED GEAR BOXES

NOISE IN REVERSE: 1. Reverse idler gear or shaft worn or damaged 2. Reverse sliding gear worn or damaged 3. Shift linkage out of adjustment 4. Shift linkage bent or damaged 5. Shift linkage parts loose 6. Shift levers, shafts or forks worn HARD SHIFTING: 1. Clutch pedal free travel incorrect 2. Clutch pedal parts worn or damaged 3. Incorrect type of lubricant 4. Incorrect level of lubricant Items 3 to 6 FROM PREVIOUS SECTION
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TROUBLES WITH FULLY SYNCHRONIZED GEAR BOXES

JUMP OUT OF GEAR: Items 3 to 6 from REVERSE Section 5. Shift cover loose or gasket damaged 6. Transmission misaligned or loose 7. Synchronizers worn or broken 8. Clutch gear bearing retainer broken 9. Clutch gear bearing worn or damaged 10. Clutch spigot bearing worn or damaged 11. Main shaft worn or damaged 12. Main shaft bearing worn or damaged

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PROBLEMS: 1. Noise 2. Vibrations CAUSES:

PROPELLER SHAFT PROBLEMS

1. Incorrect universal joint angles 2. Unbalanced parts 3. Loose worn out parts 4. Damaged propeller shaft tubes Ex. Materials sticking under coating of tubes providing an unbalance

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CHECKS:

PROPELLER SHAFT PROBLEMS

1. Universal joint angles 2. Propeller shaft run-out  Run-out near the joint should be less than 0.01 in  Run-out near the shaft should be less than 0.015 in  A bent propeller shaft results due to accident which should be replaced  Check shaft for unbalance (can be done in garage) 3. Check looseness of all joints / parts. 4. Check every 6000 miles that the four bolts holding the propeller shaft to the rear axle are tight. SERVICING: 1. Propeller shaft and Universal joint servicing to be done periodically 2. Cleaning and greasing of joints to be done carefully 3. Universal joints are fitted with grease nipple, grease every 3000 miles
65

PROPELLER SHAFT PROBLEMS

TROUBLE SHOOTING:

TROUBLE
VIBRATION AND NOISE

CAUSE
a) Broken or worn bearing of universal joint spider b) Distorted propeller shaft c) Unbalanced propeller shaft d) Loose propeller shaft a) Worn or damaged universal joint b) Worn propeller shaft splines, due to lack of lubrication c) Loose propeller shaft d) Loose flanged yoke of universal joint

REMEDY
Replace Replace Replace Re-tighten Replace Replace Re-tighten Re-tighten
66

NOISE OCCURRING AT STANDING, START OR DURING COASTING

Differential Unit

67

68

REAR AXLE PROBLEMS

NOISE WHEN PULLING STRAIGHT AHEAD: 1. Not enough oil 2. Wrong grade of oil 3. Poor quality oil 4. Excessive backlash in crown wheel and pinion 5. Crown wheel (Ring gear) and pinion worn 6. Pinion shaft bearings worn or loose 7. Excessive end play for pinion shaft 8. Crown wheel and pinion mis-aligned due to bent axle housing or distorted differential case 9. Ring gear (Crown wheel) warped 10. Differential bearings worn or loose 11. Ring gear rivets or screws loose 12. Non matching ring gear and pinion
69

REAR AXLE PROBLEMS

KNOCKING AND CLICKING: 1. Flat spot on ring gear or pinion tooth or tooth chipped or metal lodged in tooth 2. Flat spot on bearings. 3. Loose axle shaft keys 4. Loose splined shafts. 5. Mismatched differential case haves INTERMITTENT NOISE: 1. Warped Ring gear 2. Loose ring gear rivets or screws 3. Ring gear improperly installed on differential case due to dirt or burrs between the two.

70

REAR AXLE PROBLEMS

NOISE WHEN PULLING STRAIGHT AHEAD: 1. Not enough oil 2. Wrong grade of oil 3. Poor quality oil 4. Excessive backlash in crown wheel and pinion 5. Crown wheel (Ring gear) and pinion worn 6. Pinion shaft bearings worn or loose 7. Excessive end play for pinion shaft 8. Crown wheel and pinion mis-aligned due to bent axle housing or distorted differential case 9. Ring gear (Crown wheel) warped 10. Differential bearings worn or loose 11. Ring gear rivets or screws loose 12. Non matching ring gear and pinion
71

REAR AXLE PROBLEMS

NOISE ON TURNS: 1. Differential planet gears or sun gears chipped broken or scuffed 2. Planet gears (Differential) binding on pinion shaft 3. Differential gears (Planet or Sun) become loose due to worn bushing or shaft 4. Excessive backlash between the differential gears 5. Excessive axle shaft end play 6. Contact surfaces between differential sun gears and case burred, scored or damaged VIBRATION: 1. Rough rear wheel bearing 2. Unbalanced or damaged propeller shaft 3. Tire unbalance 4. Worn universal joint in propeller shaft
72

<Contd. in next slide>

REAR AXLE PROBLEMS

5. Incorrect drive line angle 6. Improperly indexed propeller shaft at companion flange 7. Companion flange run-out too much. OIL LEAK AT AXLE ENDS: 1. Oil level too high 2. Oil too light or poor quality 3. Axle shaft oil seals worn 4. Axle shaft bearing retainer loose 5. Cracked rear axle housing 6. Vent (if provided) clogged

73

STEERING SYSTEM PROBLEMS

HARD STEERING: 1. Low or uneven tire pressure 2. Steering gear or connections adjusted too tight 3. Insufficient or incorrect lubricant used 4. Excessive castor 5. Suspension arms bent or twisted 6. Front spring sagged 7. Frame bent or broken 8. Steering knuckle bent 9. King pin frozen in bushing 10. Excessive misalignment of steering shaft coupling 11. Misalignment of steering column and gear
74

STEERING SYSTEM PROBLEMS

EXCESSIVE PLAY OR LOOSENESS OF STEERING: 1. Gear connections adjusted too loose or worn 2. Steering knuckle bushing worn 3. Front wheel bearing improperly adjusted or worn 4. Worn ball joints 5. Worn or loose steering shaft bearings 6. Worn control arm bushings 7. Steering wheel loose on shaft 8. Loose linkages 9. Excessive backlash 10. Worn intermediate rod or tie-rod sockets

75

STEERING SYSTEM PROBLEMS

POOR RETURNABILITY: 1. Front end need lubrication 2. Too tight adjustment of steering gear 3. Front end alignment incorrect 4. Mis-alignment of steering gear to column

RATTLE OR CHUCKLE IN STEERING GEAR: 1. Insufficient or incorrect lubricant 2. Excessive back-lash 3. Worn or loose shaft bearings 4. Pitman arm loose on shaft

76

STEERING SYSTEM PROBLEMS

VEHICLE PULLS TO ONE SIDE: 1. Low or uneven tire pressure 2. Incorrect or uneven castor or camber 3. Improperly adjusted wheel bearings 4. Uneven front height of vehicle 5. Incorrect toe-in 6. Oil or brake fluid in linings 7. Unevenly adjusted brakes 8. Frame bent or broken 9. Rear wheels not tracking front wheels 10. Loose U-bolts or sheared centre bolt or rear springs 11. Broken or weak rear springs
77

DRUM BRAKE PROBLEMS

ONE BRAKE DRAGS: 1. Brake hydraulic line restricted 2. Improperly adjusted or worn wheel bearings 3. Distorted or improperly adjusted brake shoe 4. Faulty retracting spring 5. Drum out of round 6. Loose back plate 7. Faulty wheel cylinder 8. Dirty brake fluid 9. Air in hydraulic system 10. Insufficient shoe to back plate lubrication

78

DRUM BRAKE PROBLEMS

ALL BRAKES DRAG: 1. Mechanical resistance at pedal or shoes, damaged linkages 2. Hydraulic line restricted 3. Distorted or improperly adjusted brake shoes 4. Dirty brake fluid 5. Faulty master cylinder 6. Sticking booster control valve HARD PEDAL: REASONS 1,2 AND 3 AS ABOVE 4. Lining glazed or worn 5. Oil and grease in lining SPONGY PEDAL: 1. Leaks or insufficient fluid 2. Air in hydraulic system
79

TROUBLE SHOOTING OF BRAKE SYSTEM

1. LONG PEDAL TRAVEL OR PEDAL GOES UP TO THE FLOOR:

S no.
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

CAUSES
Excessive clearance between linings and drum Weak hose Leaking wheel cylinder Leaking master cylinder Leaking stop light switch Air in hydraulic system Blocked master cylinder cap-end hole Low fluid level in master cylinder Wear of brake pedal bush

REMEDY
Adjust the brakes Replace with new Service with repair kit Service with repair kit Replace Bleed the system Clean and replace Fill and bleed replace
80

TROUBLE SHOOTING OF BRAKE SYSTEM

2. SPONGY PEDAL:

S no.
1 2

CAUSES
Air in the hydraulic system Improper lining, excessive clearance between lining and shoe Distorted shoes Bell mouthed, worn out, weak or cracked drums Clogged master cylinder, filler cap vent hole Weak hose Weak master cylinder push rod and clevis Bent master cylinder push rod and clevis Un-bedded linings ( not in full contact) Bleed Reline

REMEDY

3 4 5 6 7 8 9

Replace Replace the drum Clean or replace and bleed Replace Check and strengthen master cylinder mounting Replace push rod and clevis Bed linings
81

TROUBLE SHOOTING OF BRAKE SYSTEM

3. BRAKES PULLING (VEHICLE PULLS TO ONE SIDE):

S no.
1 2 3

CAUSES
Uneven adjustment of brakes Tires improperly inflated Tire tread unevenly worn on either side or different types of treads Grease or fluid soaked lining on the brake opposite to the direction of pulling Linings of different grades on either side of brake Un-bedded linings

REMEDY
Adjust all the brakes evenly Inflate to recommended pressure Replace with same type of tread all round Replace the lining after remedying the cause of grease or fluid leak Replace with recommended grade of linings all round < Contd. On Bed linings next slide>

82

TROUBLE SHOOTING OF BRAKE SYSTEM

S no.
7 8 9 10 11 12

CAUSES
Shoes wrongly fitted Rivets loose in lining Wheel cylinder piston seized

REMEDY
Install leading and trailing shoes correctly Rivet properly Service or replace wheel cylinder

Wheel cylinder diameter different Replace with correct in opposite side cylinder Clogged or restriction in hydraulic hose or pipe Weak or broken shoe return springs Drums oval or eccentric Clean and replace pipelines Check and replace weak open coiled and cracked springs True up or replace < Contd. On next slide>
83

13

TROUBLE SHOOTING OF BRAKE SYSTEM

S no.
14

CAUSES

REMEDY

Loose back plate mounting bolts, Tighten back plate loose shoe abutment or adjuster mounting bolts and housing adjuster housing mountings. If abutment is loose, replace back plate. Improper steering geometry Loose or worn tie rod end Loose kingpin and bushes Loose wheel bearing, steering or U- clamp nuts Weak shock absorbers Reset Tighten or replace Replace as a set Adjust or tighten Replace

15 16 17 18 19

84

TROUBLE SHOOTING OF BRAKE SYSTEM

4. BRAKE FADE: FADE is the temporary reduction of brake effectiveness resulting from heat

S no.
1 2 3 4 5 6

CAUSES
Incorrect grade of lining Distorted shoe Overloaded vehicle Dragging brakes Thin drums Contaminated fluid

REMEDY
Replace with proper grade Replace Reduce the load Adjust or rectify the problem Replace Change the fluid

85

TROUBLE SHOOTING OF BRAKE SYSTEM

5. HARD PEDAL, POOR BRAKING:

S no.
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

CAUSES
Incorrect brake adjustment Incorrect lining Grease or oil soaked lining Un-bedded lining Glazed lining Pedal binding on the shaft Seized master cylinder or wheel cylinder piston Wrongly fitted shoes Bell mouthed, barrel shaped or polished drum Replace

REMEDY
Adjust properly

Replace lining Bed lining properly Sand paper the lining surface Lubricate and recondition Service with kit Install leading and trailing shoes correctly Replace or re-bore the drum
86

TROUBLE SHOOTING OF BRAKE SYSTEM

6. REDUCED PEDAL TRAVEL:

S no.
1 2

CAUSES

REMEDY

Master cylinder recuperating hole Service the master blocked cylinder Swollen cup seal in master cylinder Weak shoe retracting springs Wheel cylinder piston sticky Lining swelling Flush the system and replace all rubber pads Replace the springs Service and replace internal parts Replace lining

3 4 5

87

TROUBLE SHOOTING OF BRAKE SYSTEM

7. JUDDER IN PEDAL

S no.
1 2 3 4

CAUSES
Swollen ovality of drums Loose drum of hub Worn or loose bearing Rusty drums

REMEDY
True the drums Tighten Replace or re-adjust De-rust or replace

8. REAR BRAKE DRAG:

S no.
1 2

CAUSES
Maladjustment Parking brake cable seized Adjust

REMEDY
Lubricate and adjust

88

TROUBLE SHOOTING OF BRAKE SYSTEM

9. BRAKES BINDING:

S no.
1 2 3 4 5 6

CAUSES
Pedal does not return fully No clearance between push rod and master cylinder piston Improperly adjusted service brake or hand brake Recuperating and feed port clogged in master cylinder Swollen seals Seized wheel cylinder pistons

REMEDY
Lubricate or recondition pedal shaft and brushes Adjust brake pedal free play Check and adjust Service master cylinder Flush the system and replace all rubber pads Service and replace wheel cylinder < Contd. On next slide>

89

TROUBLE SHOOTING OF BRAKE SYSTEM

S no.
7 8 9

CAUSES
Improper brake fluid Weak or broken shoe return springs Blocked filler cap vent hole Replace Replace

REMEDY

Clean and replace

10. SNAPPING NOISE IN FRONT END:

S no.
1 2

CAUSES
Deep groves in back plate shoe pads Lack of lubrication in moving parts

REMEDY
Replace back plate Lubricate all moving parts on back plate with high melting point graphite grease Tighten Tighten or replace defective parts
90

3 4

Loose drum or back plate Loose or worn out front end parts

TROUBLE SHOOTING OF BRAKE SYSTEM

11. ONE WHEEL DRAG:

S no.
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

CAUSES
Weak or broken retracting springs Clearance between the shoe and drum too small in a wheel Loose wheel bearings Wheel cylinder cup seals swollen and piston seized Excessive ovality of drum Obstructed hydraulic line Distorted shoes Incorrect grade of lining

REMEDY
Replace the springs Adjust Adjust Service with kit True the drum Clear and flush Replace the shoes Replace with proper lining
91

TROUBLE SHOOTING OF BRAKE SYSTEM

12. BRAKE SQUEAL:

S no.
1 2

CAUSES
Back plate bend or shoe slightly twisted Metallic parts or dust embedded in lining

REMEDY
Replace parts Sandpaper the lining and drums and remove metal particles if any or replace the lining and drum if necessary Reline shoes properly

Loose rivets or lining not held evenly against shoe rim ( gap between lining and shoe rim) Drums not true, weak or distorted Incorrect grade of lining

4 5

True up or replace drums < Contd. On next slide> Replace lining with recommended lining
92

TROUBLE SHOOTING OF BRAKE SYSTEM

S no.
6

CAUSES
Shoes scraping on back-plate shoe pads Weak or broken hold down springs Loose wheel bearing Loose back-plate, or wheel cylinder Over adjusted steady post Glazed lining Highly polished drum

REMEDY
Lubricate shoe pads with high melting point graphite grease Replace defective parts Adjust bearings Tighten Adjust properly Surface linings with sand paper Skim drum
93

7 8 9 10 11 12

TROUBLE SHOOTING OF BRAKE SYSTEM

13. THUMPING NOISE WHEN BRAKES ARE APPLIED:

S no.
1 2

CAUSES
Loose back-plate, drums or axle U bolts Grabbing linings Tighten

REMEDY

Replace with recommended grade of lining Replace springs Skim the drums or replace

Shoe retracting sprigs unequal, weak Uneven brake drum inner diameter

94

TROUBLE SHOOTING OF BRAKE SYSTEM

14. GRINDING NOISE:

S no.
1 2 3 4 5

CAUSES
Shoe rim fouling with the drum

REMEDY
Check shoe retracting springs for correct fit

Weak shoe hold down springs or Replace parts bent pin Bent shoe web Foreign material in lining Worn out or broken lining Remove and replace Remove and replace lining Replace with lining kit. Skim or replace drum if scored Skim drums Adjust properly
95

6 7

Rough drum surface Improper adjustment of steady post