Table of Contents

Introduction to Indian Jewelry Why was jewelry so popular in amongst the royals? How were the craftsmen treated? Where did the craftsmen work? How was the jewelry made? What did jewelry in the Mughal period consist of? How was this jewelry different from the items of adornment nowadays?

Introduction to Indian Jewelry

The Indians were the only people who had diamond mines until the 18th century, So you can imagine how wealthy they were. Everyone flocked to India for diamonds. Yet the truly startling aspect of the objects is the level of craftsmanship that was lavished on them. The combined enamels, inset gems, intricate gold work and miniature paintings have inspired jewelers such as Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels to produce modern master pieces in the world of jewelry.

Why was jewelry so popular amongst the royals?

The jeweled arts of India thrived because of the skills of the craftsmen, the bountiful supply of precious materials, and the active patronage of royals, nobles, diplomats and merchants. There was no shortage of demand for beautiful artworks as giftgiving was central to Mughal court life especially for those seeking favours from the emperor or his officials. Even those from the lowest class of society when approaching the emperor were required to present gifts, however simple, as an expression of loyalty. A French physician Franois Bernier, living in India in the mid 17th century, commented that the emperors were accustomed to receiving gifts of pearls, diamonds, emeralds, rubies and gold. These were presented sometimes for the sake of an ostentatious display, sometimes to divert the King from instituting an inquiry sometimes to gain the favour of the King, and by that means obtain an increase in salary.

Left: The last Mughal emperor Bahadur Shah Zafar adorned in jewels.

How were the craftsmen treated?

The life of the craftsman during the Mughal period was a humble one. For self-employed or independent craftsmen, life was a continuous financial struggle. They often found themselves in a debt cycle awaiting payment from their previous patrons, while borrowing money and materials to produce more works. Thus, highly skilled craftsmen often aimed to find employment within the karkhana (imperial workshops), taking on apprenticeships in the hope of receiving a regular salary and comparatively better working conditions under a royal patron and his court. However employment within the karkhana was no guarantee of an easy life. The travel accounts of Francois Bernier, a French physician who lived in Mughal India from 1656 to1668, documents how artisans in the royal workshops were treated with harshness, and inadequately remunerated [with] ... the pittance that shall supply him with a piece of bread.

Above: a man crafting jewelry.

Where did the craftsmen work?

An Englishman Bernier once wrote Large halls are seen in many places, called Kar-kanays, or workshops for artisans... In one hall embroiderers are busily employed, superintended by a master. In another you see goldsmiths; in a third, painters; in a fourth, varnishers in lacquer-work; in a fifth, joiners, turners, tailors, and shoemakers; in a sixth, manufacturers of silk, brocade, and those fine muslins of which are made turbans, girdles with golden flowers, and drawers... The artisans repair every morning to their respective Kar-kanays, where they remain employed the whole day; and in the evening return to their homes

How was the jewelry made?

. Akbars memoirs, the Ain-i Akbari, provide a detailed account of the Mughal empire during his reign and contain a description of the technical skills of those serving in his imperial workshops. Each craftsman in his jewellery workshops, was in a department specialising in a particular skill which included gem cutting and polishing, engraving, enamelling and gem setting. As such, every masterpiece created in the workshops was produced through an assembly line, passing from one department to another until it was complete. The work of each craftsman in the karkhana was supervised and checked for quality by a master artisan. His job was to ensure that what was produced was of a high standard for the emperor and the royal household, and pleasing to their tastes. As such, the average craftsman could not exercise much creativity in his work.

Left: Mughal inspired jewelry on modern actors and actresses

What did jewelry in the mughal period consist of

The Mughals were avid collectors and lovers of gemstones and jewellery. Akbars treasury was so vast that imperial records in 1590 list three separate treasuries allocated specifically for gemstones, gold and jewellery. Treasures were constantly coming and going in the royal treasuries. New items arrived each day as gifts, tribute from political allies, spoils of war, and revenue and taxes from all over the vast Mughal empire. Similarly, other items within the treasury were constantly being presented to courtiers, family, friends and other rulers, as giftgiving was central to Mughal court life. Record-keeping therefore had to be handled with great care. These valuable items were carefully documented, classified and painstaking records were kept in the Jawahar Khanah (Treasury Department), staffed with a treasurer, clerks, skilled jewellers and numerous assistants. William Hawkins recorded in the early 17th century that Jahangir had in his treasury around 37.8 kilograms of diamonds (each no smaller than 2.5 carats), 300 kilograms of pearls, 50 kilograms of rubies, and 125 kilograms of emeralds. Moreover, the treasury also housed a vast quantity of semi-precious stones including amethyst, agate, aquamarine, quartz, turquoise, lapis lazuli, opal, onyx, garnet and jade. The three favourite gems of the Mughals were rubies, emeralds and diamonds. Rubies from India were considered the most valuable, exceeding both diamonds and emeralds. Emeralds were not native to India, but were mined in Colombia and imported to India via the Portuguese port of Goa in the late 16th century. As for diamonds, India was the only known source of these precious stones during the Mughal period until the 18th century.

How was this Jewelry different from items of adornment worn nowadays
Unlike today whether intended for practical or ornamental use, religious or secular, items for the courts regardless of size or function were lavishly adorned in precious stones. Both men and women were avid lovers of jeweled ornaments. Thomas Roe, the British ambassador to the court of Jahangir once described prince Khurram (later emperor Shah Jahan) wearing a Coate of Cloth of silver, embroidered with great Pearle and shining in Diamonds like a firmament. Other foreign courtiers such as 17th century Italian physician and traveller Niccolao Manucci, described the jewels of the royal ladies as Above and left: In gems the size of a nut, strung together and the mughal era both worn in multiple cascades like scarves. men and women
wore jewelry

Refrences
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