FLAX : IN TEXTILES

Anuradha Rk and Aparimita Shinde

Background on flax
Flax (common flax or linseed) is a member of the

genus Linum in the family Linaceae. It is known as Agasi/Akshi in Kannada, Aazhi Vidhai in Tamil, (Jawas/Javas) or (Alashi) in Marathi and (Tisi) in Hindi, (Tisi) in Bengali and (ouvsalu) in Telugu.

 Flax is an erect annual

plant growing to 1.2 m (3 ft 11 in) tall, with slender stems. The flowers are pure pale blue, with five petals; they can also be bright red. The fruit is a round, dry capsule, containing several glossy brown seeds shaped like an apple pip. In addition to referring to the plant itself, the word "flax" may refer to the unspun fibers of the flax

Characteristics
Flax fibres are amongst the oldest fibre crops in

the world. Flax fiber is extracted from the bast or skin of the stem of the flax plant. Flax fibers vary in length from about 25 to 150 cm (18 to 55 in) and average 12-16 micrometers in diameter.

Stem cross-section, showing locations of underlying tissues. Ep = epidermis; C = cortex; BF = bast fibers; P = phloem; X = xylem; Pi = pith

 There are two varieties: shorter tow fibers used

for coarser fabrics and longer line fibers used for finer fabrics. Flax fibers can usually be identified by their nodes which add to the flexibility and texture of the fabric. The cross-section of the linen fiber is made up of irregular polygonal shapes which contribute to the coarse texture of the fabric.

Description
Linen (flax fabric) is made from 100% natural flax

fibres. This fibre is one of the oldest used in textiles for the home & clothing. The construction of the flax fibre is a hollow cylinder, called the lumen. The colour of natural flax linen ranges from cream to brown. This fabric is crisp and starchy, becoming softer over time. The appearance can range from matt to lustre.

 Linen/flax fabric uses range from bed and bath

fabrics, home and commercial furnishing items (wallpaper/upholstery,etc.), apparel items (suits, dresses, skirts, shirts, etc.), to industrial products (luggage, canvases, sewing thread, etc.). It was once the preferred yarn for handsewing the uppers of moccasin-style shoes (loafers), but its use has been replaced by synthetics.

Properties
Highly absorbent and a good conductor of heat

Linen fabric feels cool to the touch.

Linen is among the strongest of the vegetable

fibers, with 2 to 3 times the strength of cotton. It is smooth, making the finished fabric lint free, and gets softer the more it is washed.

 Constant creasing in the same place in sharp

folds will tend to break the linen threads. This wear can show up in collars, hems, and any area that is iron creased during laundering. Linen has poor elasticity and does not spring back readily, explaining why it wrinkles so easily.

Performance
The strongest & most solid textile fibre known.

Similar tensile strength qualities as some types

of steel. Strength increases when damp or wet. Excellent resistance to pill. Gray flax fabrics were treated in a single-stage process for desizing, scouring and bleaching using sodium perborate (SBP) as an environmentally safer bleaching agent. The SPB efficiently bleaches flax fabrics alone and without any catalysts.

Advantages
Natural antibacterial & antifungal properties.

Protection from UV rays.

Excellent anti allergenic characteristics. Excellent anti static characteristics. Will not attract or trap dust particles. Able to absorb a large amount of

water & moisture (own dry body weight). Absorption ability allows for a wide range of permanent dyes to colour the textile.

 Quick drying material.

Easily refreshed by washing.

Ability to retain shape after washing as it does

not hold elastic properties. Known as one of the fibres that holds the most heat resistance. A thermal/cooling regulating fibre which allows skin to breathe keep you cool in the summer and warm in the winter.

Disadvantages
Acid is known to disintegrate flax fibres.

Flax fibres are easily ignitable and burn quickly

due to the cellulose content. Heat resistant properties will deteriorate the natural oils which hold the cells together when exposed to steam and hot water over time Consider this point when washing & cleaning linen.

Uses
Over the past 30 years the end use for linen has

changed dramatically. Approximately 70% of linen production in the 1990s was for apparel textiles whereas in the 1970s only about 5% was used for fashion fabrics. A linen handkerchief, pressed and folded to display the corners, was a standard decoration of a well-dressed man's suit during most of the first part of the 20th century.

 Linen fabric is one of the preferred traditional

supports for oil painting. Linen is preferred to cotton for its strength, durability and archival integrity. Coarser grades: used for the manufacturing of twine and rope. Flax fiber is also a raw material for the high-quality paper industry for the use of printed banknotes and rolling paper for cigarettes and tea bags. Paper made of linen can be very strong and crisp, which is why the United States and many other countries print their currency on paper that is made from 25% linen and 75% cotton.