WELCOME TO THE

PRESENTATON
ON
Textile Testing and Quality Control-
(Garment Portion)
Engr. Mohammad Faizur Rahman (Rashed),
Assistant Professor (Garments TechnoIogy),
Department of TextiIe TechnoIogy, AUST
Quality:
Quality may be deIined as the level oI
acceptance oI goods or services.
For the textile and apparel industry, product
quality is calculated in terms oI quality and
standard oI Iibers, yarns, Iabric construction,
colour Iastness, designs and the Iinal Iinished
garments. Quality control in terms oI garment
manuIacturing, pre-sales and posts
sales service, delivery, pricing, etc are essential
Ior any garment manuIacturer, trader or
exporter.
Certain quality related problems, oIten seen in
garment manuIacturing like sewing, colour,
sizing, or garment deIects should never be over
looked.
These deIects are discussed below -
$0ing d010.ts
Open seams, wrong stitching techniques, non-
matching threads, missing stitches, improper
creasing oI the garment, improper thread
tension etc. are some oI the sewing deIects
which can aIIect the garment quality adversely.
4l4ur d010.ts
Variation oI colour between the sample and
the Iinal garment, wrong colour combinations
and mismatching dyes should always be
avoided.
$izing d010.ts
Wrong gradation oI sizes, diIIerence in
measurement oI various parts oI a garment like
sleeves oI XL size Ior body oI L size garment
can deteriorate the garments beyond repair.
arm0nt d010.ts
Broken or deIective buttons, snaps, stitches,
diIIerent shades within the same garment,
dropped stitches, exposed notches, Iabric
deIects, holes, Iaulty zippers, loose or hanging
sewing threads, misaligned buttons and holes,
missing buttons, needle
cuts, pulled or loose yarn, stains, unIinished
buttonhole, short zippers, inappropriate
trimmings etc. all can lead to the end oI a
brand name even beIore its establishment.
Some oI main Iabric properties that are
taken into consideration Ior garment
manuIacturing Ior export basis:
Overall look oI the garment.
Right Iormation oI the garment.
Feel and Iall oI the garment. Feel and Iall oI the garment.
Physical properties. Physical properties.
Colour Iastness oI the garment. Colour Iastness oI the garment.
Finishing properties Finishing properties
Presentation oI the Iinal Presentation oI the Iinal
produced garment. produced garment.
0th4ds 41 quality .4ntr4l:
Basically two methods are used Ior garments
quality control
i) Testing
ii) Inspection.
Maximum garments manuIacturers apply
inspection method due to high cost oI testing
equipments.
Inspection:
Inspection may be deIined as the
visual examination in relation to some
standards.
Objective:
The main objectives oI inspection are
i. Detection oI deIects.
ii. Correcting the deIects or deIective
garments.
To inspect garments an integral method
named 'nspection Loop' is used given
below
Inspection
Correction oI the deIects Detection oI deIects
InIorm deIects to
appropriate personnel
Determination oI
causes oI deIects
Fig: Inspection Loop.
Steps oI inspection in garments industry:
i) Raw materials inspection (Fabric
and Accessories)
ii) In Process inspection.
iii) Final inspection.
abri. Insp0.ti4n
AIter Iabric is received, it should be inspected to
determine its acceptability Irom a quality viewpoint;
otherwise, extra cost in garment manuIacturing may be
incurred due to either the loss oI the material or time, to
say nothing oI customer returns and dissatisIaction due to
poor quality. Some garment manuIacturers rely on their
Iabric suppliers to perIorm Iabric inspection and mark
Iabric deIects. Either way, Iabric inspection prior to
spreading and cutting Iunctions. A spreader will be able
to concentrate on spreading more quickly without having
to worry about inspecting the Iabric. A cutter`s
productivity would increase because the deIects are
already marked.
Fig: Fabric Inspection Machine
abri. Insp0.ti4n Pr4.0ss
Fabric inspection is usually done on Iabric
inspection machines. These machines are designed
so that rolls oI Iabric can be mounted behind the
inspection table under adequate light and rerolled
as they leave the table. DeIects in a Iabric can be
seen readily with these machines, as the inspector
has a very good view oI the Iabric and the Iabric
does not need to be reversed to detect deIects.
These inspection machines are either power-driven
or the inspector pulls the Iabric over the inspection
table.
The deIects are located, marked and recorded on
an inspection Iorm. Such machines are also
equipped to accurately measure the length oI
each roll oI Iabric as well as monitor the width oI
the Iabric. The width oI Iabric is more critical to
the manuIacturers oI basic garments such as
men`s and boy`s underwear who Irequently reuse
markers, make pattern changes less oIten, and
perhaps use tighter markers resulting in greater
Iabric utilization.
Fabric DeIects or Faults Allocation:
~ 4-Point system.
~10-Point system etc.
$0ing Thr0ad
Sewing threads should be checked and tested
Ior the Iollowing characteristics
(A) Construction:
Yarn count, yarn ply, number
oI twists, twist balance, yarn strength
(tenacity), yarn elongation.
(B) Sewability:
At least three-thread packages
Irom a lot should be used Ior at least 100 yd oI
sewing under normal conditions and a record
kept running perIormance. A good-quality
sewing thread should be able to produce
uniIorm consistent stitches in the chosen
sewing material at the highest machine speed
under normal conditions.
In addition, actually using at least three
packages oI sewing thread Irom each lot or
shipment will give a very good indication oI the
Iollowing properties oI sewing thread.
1. ImperIections:
Sewing thread should be Iree oI
slubs, knots or any such deIects. Otherwise, there
will be excessive stoppage on the sewing machine,
resulting in lower sewing eIIiciency.
2. Finish:
Thread Iinish is basically a lubricant applied to
a sewing thread so that the thread will slip
easily and smoothly through the eye oI sewing
machine needle and through various thread-
handling parts oI a sewing machine. This Iinish
varies Irom 3 to 15 oI the weight oI the
thread. The amount oI Iinish must be consistent
Irom package to package and Irom lot to lot;
otherwise, sewing quality and eIIiciency will be
lost completely.
3. Color:
Color oI a sewing thread (including white)
should match that oI either the original or the
standard sample and should not vary too
much within a lot or shipment oI sewing
thread. Also the color should not bleed in
washing and/or dry cleaning and Iade in
sunlight.
4. Package density:
Package density oI sewing thread should
be consistent Irom package to package within a
shipment or lot and Irom shipment to shipment.
II packages density varies too much,
sewing machine operators will have to adjust
the tension Irequently, resulting in lower
productivity.
5. Winding:
Winding oI sewing thread on packages
should be uniIorm; otherwise, it may result
excessive thread breakages, again causing lower
eIIiciency.
6. Yardage:
Length oI sewing thread on each
package should be at least the speciIied amount
or within a certain tolerance, such as ] 2 and
so on.
ipp0r:
Zipper should be checked Ior the Iollowing
1. Dimensions:
Check Ior the correct width oI
tape. II it isn`t correct, the machine will run
oII. Measure overall length with the zipper
closed Irom extreme ends oI metal. Tape
extensions should be as speciIied.
2. Top and bottom stops should be Iastened
securely.
3. Zipper tape should be uniIorm in color iI that is
important.
4. Zipper should not cause wrinkling or puckering
aIter it is sewn into garment.
5. Can a zipper be washed and/or dry cleaned?
Will it Iade? Will the slide deIorm under
pressing or ironing?
6. Check the number oI points it takes to pull
open the zipper (sideways).
7. Pull tab should be aIIixed Iirmly to the slider
body.
8. Slider should ride Ireely but must not be Iree
that it is loose on the chain.
9. Check also to be sure the slider locks
securely
utt4ns:
Buttons should have large, clean sew holes
that are Iree Irom Ilash and will not cut the
thread. Holes must be located properly in
relation to the edge oI the button. Buttons
should be oI uniIorm thickness. The color or
shade oI the buttons should be within a certain
visual tolerances. Buttons should be able to
withstand laundering, dry cleaning and
pressing without any changes such as cracks,
melting oI surIace (scorch), changes in color
and so on.
u.l0s:
Buckles should be checked Ior any visual
deIects such as sharp, burred edges. II a buckle
is cloth-or vinyl-covered, there should not be
an appreciable diIIerence in the buckle and
garment materials.
$nap 1ast0n0rs:
The attaching machinery should locate the
snap Iasteners accurately and at proper
pressure. suppliers.
Component part should be checked to close
tolerances and Iree Irom dirt and other Ioreign
substances so that they will Ieed rapidly
through the hopper and permit uniIorm and
trouble-Iree assembly. Hardness and
workability oI metal are important Iactors also
and are controlled careIully by quality
II the metal is too hard, the parts will be
Iormed poorly and may crack; iI it is too soIt,
the closure will be weak. OI course, such
problems would not arise with plastic snap
Iasteners. The snap Iasteners should attach
Iirmly and withstand the maximum pull that
they can be expected to endure on the garment.
The snapping action oI snaps must be positive
yet easy enough Ior practical use.
In-Pr4.0ss Insp0.ti4n:
In-process inspection means the inspection oI
parts beIore they are assembled into a complete
product. In apparel manuIacturing process, this
means inspection at various points in the entire
manuIacturing process Irom spreading Iabric to
pressing/Iinishing.
In-process inspection program will result in the
Iollowing two advantages-
1. Reduction oI major 'surprises Irom the
customers due to bad quality.
2. Decrease in labor cost due to a decrease
in repair rates.
$pr0ading:
Various Iactors that can aIIect spreading should
be checked, such as ply alignment, ply tension oI
slackness, bowing, splicing and so on.
P4ssibl0 spr0ading d010.ts:
1. Not enough plies to cover the quantity oI
garments required.
2. Narrow Iabric.
3. Plies not all Iacing in the correct direction. That
is, not all the plies are spread Iace down, Iace up,
or Iace to Iace, as required.
4. Mismatching oI checks. Plies not spread
accurately one above another ready Ior cutting.
5. Pattern part missing. Correct number oI parts Ior
all sizes not included by marker maker.
6. Mixed parts. Parts not correctly labeled in
marker; thereIore, a marriage oI wron-sized parts.
7. Patterns not Iacing in the correct direction on
napped Iabrics.
8. Patterns not all Iacing in the same direction
(either way) on a one-way Iabric.
9. Patterns not aligned with respect to the Iabric
grain. As a result, a garment may not drape or
Iit properly.
10. Line deIinitions poor (e.g. chalk, too thick,
indistinctly printed line, perIorated lay not Iully
powdered), leading to inaccurate cutting
11. Skimpy marking. Either the marker did not use
the outside edge oI the pattern or the pattern
was moved or sewing aIter partial marking to
squeeze the pattern into a smaller space in the
interest oI Iabric economy. Alternatively, the
pattern is worn around the edges and should be
replaced.
12. Generous marking. A combination oI points 7
and 8 results in components being sewn
together with puckering or pleating.
13. Marker too wide. Garment parts at the edge
oI the lay are cut with bits missing.
14. Not enough kniIe clearance Ireedom.
15. Mismatched checks and stripes.
16. Notches and drill marks omitted, indistinct or
misplaced.
Fig: Garments CockIing
utting:
Cutting quality is a prerequisite Ior quality in a
Iinished product. In addition, cut work quality
aIIects the ease and cost with which
construction is accomplished.
The quality oI work leaving the cutting room is
determined by how true the cut Iabric parts are
to the pattern; how smooth or rough the cut
surIace is; material or Iabric deIects in the cut
Iabric parts; shade diIIerences between cut
Iabric pieces within a bundle.
In addition, various Iactors in cutting that can
aIIect the subsequent quality should be
checked, such as under or overcut, size,
placement and sequence alignment oI notches,
and drill holes, ripped or pulled yarns, and so
on.
The Iollowing deIects may arise in cutting-
1. Frayed edges:
May impede cutting time
by clogging the kniIe action. The amount oI
Iraying depends on Iabric construction and
Iinish. Improper cutting tools or dull knives
cause excessive Iraying in a pattern as the
section is cut.
2. Fuzzy, ragged or serrated edges:
3. Ply-to-ply Iusion:
4. Single-edge-Iusion:
5. Pattern precision:
6. Notches:
7. Drilling:
$0ing:
In-process inspection in sewing involves the
inspection oI work Ior each operator, with a
quality standard established to limit the
amount oI bad work permitted and a provision
Ior operators to reinsert and repair entire
bundles should this limit be exceeded.
Inspection should be perIormed soon aIter any
given sewing operation.
Since inspections can oIten be perIormed oI
Ior two or more operations at the same time,
in-process inspection can be established at
various inspection points in swing operations,
as opposed to the inspector literally selecting
work at each operator`s work station.
ss0mbl0 d010.ts:
1. Finished components not correct to size or
shape or not symmetrical.
2. Finished garment not to size, arising Irom
incorrect patterns, inaccurate marking or cutting
, shrinkage or stretching Iabric, incorrect seam
widths.
3. Parts, components, closures or Ieatures omitted,
caused by bad work Ilow, wrongly printed work
tickets, parts omitted in cutting, careless
operator.
4. Components or Ieatures wrongly positioned
or misaligned arising Irom incorrect marking,
or sewing not Iollowing the mark (e.g.
pockets, bartacks, top stitching, buttonholes,
buttons, hooks and bars, hooks and eyes,
zips).
5. Interlining incorrectly positioned, twisted,
too Iull, too tight, cockling.
6. Lining too Iull, too tight, showing below the
bottom oI the garment, twisted, incorrectly
pleated, and so on.
7. Garment parts cockling, pleated, twisted,
showing bubbles and Iullness; Ior example.
Collar in relation to the under collar or the
neck, sleeve in relation to armhole, pockets,
zips, tapes, pads in relation to the shoulder.
8. Garment parts shaded owing to being mixed
aIter cutting.
9. Parts in one-way Iabrics in wrong direction,
usually only small parts such as pockets.
10. Mismatched trimming.
Pr0ssing/inishing:
The basic objective oI Iinishing must be quality
and appearance. Appearance is the basis oI most
consumers` judgement on whether or not to
purchase a garment.
The quality oI pressing operation can be
measured by evaluating the Iollowing-
1. Burned or scorched garments.
2. Water spots/stains.
3. Gloss and/or change in color (original
shade).
4. Flattened nap or surIace.
5. Broken zippers, buttons and so on.
6. Creases not correctly Iormed.
7. Fabric oI Iinished garment not smooth,
wrinkle-Iree and showing its proper
appearance.
8. Edges wavy and stretched or thick and
cockling.
9. Garments not thoroughly dried.
10. Pockets not smooth.
11. Lining showing pleats, creases, wrinkles,
shine.
12. Garment not correctly molded, either in
detail or total silhouette.
13. Shrinkage due to heat and moisture.
inal Insp0.ti4n:
Final inspection consists oI inspecting Iinished
garments Irom the consumers` point oI view;
size measurement, Iorm Iitting (putting
garments on the proper size manikins to see iI
they properly Iit the labeled sizes); and live
modeling iI necessary (again to see iI the
garments properly Iit the labeled sizes).
Fig: FinaI Inspection
Final inspection may occur beIore or aIter
garments are packed in poly bags and boxes.
II it is done aIter garments are packed, then
proper size and style markings on the package
can also be checked. In any case, there should
be a list oI points to be checked in a garment,
including a table oI Iinished garment
measurements.
QL Rand4m $ampling Insp0.ti4n
# The AQL inspection takes the
samples Irom a goods, inspect
them and depends on the quality oI
samples inspected and decide to
accept or reject them.
# The standard is based on Military
Standard 105D (MIL-STD-105D)
# It provides with the sampling plans,
the number oI samples to be
inspected and the acceptable
quality level (AQL)
# AQL 1.5 is applied to very severe
inspection on high-class expensive
item.
# AQL 2.5 is applied when textiles oI
normal/good quality are involved.
AQL (II)
# Three types oI sampling plans
-single, double and multiple.
# Each sampling plan can be
perIormed in three level-
normal, tightened and reduced,
depending on quality oI products.
# In garment industry, single and
double normal sampling plans are
applied.
$ampl0 $iz0 4d0 L0tt0r
The Sample Size Code Letter shows
diIIerent lot sizes to diIIerent code letter.
There are seven inspection level, Iour Ior
general inspection and three Ior special
inspection
For garment inspection, General
Inspection level II would be used.
$ampl0 $iz0 4d0 L0tt0r
$ingl0 $ampling Plan 14r n4rmal
insp0.ti4n
4ubl0 $ampling Plans
ampl0
$ingl0 $ampling Plan-N4rmal
Insp0.ti4n
Assume AQL is 2.5 and lot size is 600
garments, Iind out the Iollowing :
The total number oI samples need to
inspect
The acceptable number oI the samples
The rejection number oI the samples
ns0r
$ingl0 $ampling Plan
First, Irom Table 1 Iind out the code letter Ior lot
size oI 600 and inspection level II is 'J
From Table 2 (single sampling plan), the letter
'J corresponds to sample sizes oI '80.
So, 80 samples are needed to inspect out oI 600
At AQL 2.5, iI deIective garments are less
than or equal to 5, whole lots will be accepted, iI
it is Iound to be 6 or more, whole lots will be
rejected.
Try this 4n0
II the garment lot is 300 dozens, and
AQL is 4.0, Iind out
the number oI samples to be
inspected
the acceptable number and rejection
number
ampl0 II
4ubl0 $ampling Plan
Assume AQL is 4 and lot size is 2000
garments, Iind out Irom double sampling plan
on the Iollowing:
The total sample sizes need to inspect
What is the Iirst acceptable number
What is the second acceptable number
ns0r
4ubl0 $ampling Plan
First, Table 1 oI 2000 lots at inspection level II
is letter 'K
Table 3, double sampling plan shows the
sample size oI letter K is 80.
First inspection, at AQL 4, the acceptable
number is 5, rejection number is 9
II any number between 5 to 9, second
inspection is needed
ns0r
4ubl0 sampling Plan (II)
For second inspection, the sample sizes
again is 80
At AQL 4, the cumulated acceptable
number is 12 and rejection number is 13.
Conclusion
I1 th0 numb0r 41 d010.tiv0 garm0nts
14und in th0 1irst sampl0 is 6, and in
s0.4nd sampl0 is 5, maing a t4tal 41 11,
th0n th0 h4l0 l4t 41 2,000 pi0.0s ill b0
a..0pt0d.
Try this 4n0
4ubl0 $ampling Plan
A total oI 3,000 dozens oI sweaters were
produced. At AQL 2.5, Iind out the
Iollowing at double sampling plan:
The total sample sizes need to inspect
The acceptable number at Iirst inspection
The acceptable number at second
inspection
R0.4v0ry Insp0.ti4n
Check whether remedial works
satisIactory.
Check on volume oI work successIully
recovered.
Avoidance oI work recycling.
L0an anag0m0nt
What is Lean?
Lean`is a way oI working which
identiIies and eliminates waste to deliver improved
value and service, based on identiIied customer
requirements.
~ Improves existing processes
~ Creates new processes
Th0 4r0 41 L0an:
1. DeIine who are the customersrecipients,
clients, payers &/or other stakeholders (e.g.
owners oI interIacing processes)
2. DeIine desired outputs & value in customer
terms.
3. DeIine current process (value stream) -as it
really is, not as it is supposed to be.
4. IdentiIy & eliminate waste-all steps should
directly contribute to satisIying the need oI the
customer.
5. Make the process Ilow so the customer can
pull`(i.e. demand Irom the customer).
Prin.ipl0s 41 L0an
The Iive-step thought process Ior
guiding the implementation oI lean techniques are
easy to remember, but not always easy to achieve:
1. SpeciIy value Irom the standpoint oI the end
customer by product Iamily.
2. IdentiIy all the steps in the value stream Ior each
product Iamily, eliminating whenever possible
those steps that do not create value.
3. Make the value-creating steps occur in tight
sequence so the product will Ilow smoothly
toward the customer.
4. As Ilow is introduced, let customers pull value
Irom the next upstream activity.
5. As value is speciIied, value streams are
identiIied, wasted steps are removed, and Ilow
and pull are introduced, begin the process again
and continue it until a state oI perIection is
reached in which perIect value is created with
no waste.
RP
$0v0ral standards us0d r0garding $4.ial
R0sp4nsibiliti0s:
SA 8000 (Social Accountability) mainly in
UK and USA.
WRAP8 It is universal/international
standards.
GAP Audit (SelI Standard)
TESCO Audit (SelI Standard) etc.
WRAP means -
'Worldwide Responsible Apparel
Production
0atur0s 4r hara.t0risti.s 41 RP:
A certiIication program.
Addresses 'Social Issues in Apparel
Production.
To meet-up 'Buyers` Compliances several
standards used, WRAP is one oI them.
Independent, Non-proIitable, International
NGO dedicated to the certiIication oI lawIul,
humane and Ethical manuIacturing throughout
the world.
Launched by AAMA (Now known as the
American Apparel & Footwear Association`
i.e. AAFA Irom oct`1999).
Endorsed by USA, AIrica, and Asia. Wal-Mart
has also expressed its support Ior WRAP.
WRAP certiIication is only Ior 01 (one) year,
aIter expiry needs to renew.
RP 0rti1i.ati4n as0d 4n 12 (t0lv0) Prin.ipl0s:
1. Compliance with laws and workplace
regulations:
2. Prohibition oI Iorced labor:
3. Prohibition oI harassment or abuses:
4. Prohibition oI discrimination:
5. Prohibition oI child labor:
6. Freedom oI Association & Collective
Bargaining:
7. Compensation & BeneIits:
8. Hours oI work:
9. Health & saIety:
10. Customs compliance:
11. Environment:
12. SaIety:
R010r0n.0s
Prodip V. Mehta, A Introduction to Quality Control
in Apparel Industry.
ProI. M. A. Kashem, Garments and Technology.
Jimmy K.C. Lam
The Hong Kong Polytechnic University
Harold Carr , Introduction to garments manuIacturing
Fashion dictionary
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