Introduction to Natural dyes

Dr. Reena Aggarwal TIT IV 2011

Introduction to natural dyes

What are natural dyes?

Natural dyes are dyes obtained from plant animal and mineral resources present in nature. Most natural dyes come from dye plants, the best-known ones including madder, brazilwood, logwood, weld, woad and indigo. Some natural dyes, such as cochineal, come from insects, or from mineral sources.

Fiber choice for natural dyeing

Wool is generally the best fiber to color with natural dyes. It will attach to a wider variety of dye chemicals than cellulose fibers such as cotton, and, since it is usually washed in cool water, or only dry-cleaned, the relative impermanence of most natural dyes is less of an issue. Cotton is less suitable for many natural dyes. As a rule, science fair projects involving natural dyes should be done using wool yarn or fabric, not cotton (though comparing the same dye on the two different types of fiber would make a nice project). There are some natural dyes that will work on cotton, however, especially if mordanted with tannins. Synthetic fibers usually cannot be dyed with natural dyes.

Fibre content determines the type of dye required for a fabric: Cellulose fibres: cotton, linen, hemp, ramie, bamboo, rayon Protein fibres: wool, angora, mohair, cashmere, silk, soy, leather, suede Cellulose fibres require fibre-reactive, direct/substantive, and vat dyes, which are colourless, soluble dyes fixed by light and/or oxygen. Protein fibres require vat, acid, or indirect/mordant dyes, that require a bonding agent. Each synthetic fibre requires its own dyeing method, for example, nylon requires acid, disperse and pigment dyes, rayon acetate requires disperse dyes, and so on. The types of natural dyes currently in use by the global fashion industry include

Types of dyes
There are three major types of natural dyes: Substantive dyes, which require no mordants Vat dyes Mordant dyes, which require auxiliary substances to become attached to the fiber.

Substantive dyes
Substantive dyes are those that do not need a mordant to bind the dye to the fiber, such as cutch. There are relatively few substantive dyes. Substantive dyes are used by simply combining the dyestuff, usually in a quantity equal to or twice that of the weight of the fiber, with the fiber (or fabric) and simmering for an extended period of time. An example is turmeric, the spice, which works on cotton as well as on wool; others include onion skins, walnut husks, and tea. Another word for a substantive dye is direct dye.

Vat Dyes
Vat dyes form the third category and include indigo and woad. These dyes are insoluble in water, and need to be dissolved in a vat with alkalis. Oxygen is removed by a chemical process called reduction. On contact with air (oxidation), the dyes become stable soluble compounds The vat dyes work the same way on protein and cellulose, by being introduced into the surface of the fiber while in soluble form and then converted into an insoluble form. The vat dyes include many synthetic dyes, but also the natural dye indigo, and the ancient Tyrian Purple dye extracted from shellfish. They are complex to use, requiring the establishment of an anaerobic (oxygen-free) fermentation.

Mordant Dyes
Additive dyes or mordant dyes, need a mordant in order for the dye to bond with the fiber, such as madder, cochineal and weld. This is the most common type of dye. Most natural dyeing is done with the use of mordants, most commonly heavy metal ions, but sometimes tannins. (Tannins are particularly important in dyeing cotton and other cellulose fibers.) The mordant allows many natural dyes which would otherwise just wash out to attain acceptable washfastness. A mordant remains in the fiber permanently, holding the dye. Each different metal used as a mordant produces a different range of colors for each dye.

Mordants
A mordant is an element which aids the chemical reaction that takes place between the dye and the fiber so that the dye is absorbed. Containers used for dying must be non-reactive (enamel, stainless steel.) Brass, copper or iron pots will do their own mordanting. Not all dyes need mordants to help them adhere to fabric. If they need no mordants, such as lichens and walnut hulls, they are called substantive dyes. Common mordants are: ALUM, usually used with cream of tartar, which helps evenness and brightens slightly; IRON (or copperas) which saddens or darken colors, bringing out green shades; TIN, usually used with cream of tartar, which blooms or brightens colors, especially reds, oranges and yellows; BLUE VITRIOL which saddens colors and brings out greens TANNIC ACID used for tans and browns.

Herb

Image

Colors

Description

Madder

Madders leafy tops sprawl untidily over the ground and their clusters of tiny yellow-green flowers are insignificant. Yet, to the dyer, madder is a miracle of color because its roots contain alizarin, one of the most valuable red dye pigments ever known.

Haritaki

Haritaki is so named because it grows in the abode of Hara (the Himilayas); it is green (harita) in the natural colour and it cures (harayet) all diseases.

Cutch, Cutechu

The dyestuff known as cutch or catechu is an extract usually made from the heartwood of Acacia catechu, a small thorny tree. It yields orange-brown dyes that are rich in tannin, and was used in calico printing before its introduction to the West. It is used mainly to dye cotton and silk.

Indigo

Indigos ability to produce an extensive range of beautiful blue shades has made it the most successful dye plant ever known. The commercially available indigo powder is made from the leaves of Indigofera tinctoria, which requires hot, sunny and humid growing conditions to flourish.

Turmeric

Turmeric belongs to the same family as ginger. Sometimes known as Indian saffron, it is the source of the familiar yellow color of many Asian curry dishes. Both the culinary spice and the dye are obtained from its root. Turmeric was and still is used for textile painting and printing in .

Onion

The outer skin of this common vegetable is one of the most useful and readily available dyestuffs. It is ideal for the novice dyers first experiments since it reliably produced rich, vibrant shades of orange, yellow, rust and brown on all fibers, and does not impart any odor to the dyed material.

Pomegranate

The edible pomegranate fruit yields a ocher-yellow dye and the skins are rich in tannin, which improves colorfastness. The pomegranate dye lacks brilliance so it is often mixed with turmeric root to make the color brighter. In and it is used as a mordant and a dye.

 Natural dyes obtained from minerals Ocher is a dye obtained from an impure earthy ore of iron or a ferruginous clay, usually red (hematite) or yellow (limonite). In addition to being the principal ore of iron, hematite is a constituent of a number of abrasives and pigments. Mineral Dyes: Chrome Green - from a compound of chromium and oxygen. Chrome Red - from a compound of chromium and lead. Chrome Yellow - from a compound of chromic acid and lead. Prussian Blue - from a compound of iron and cyanide.

 Natural dyes obtained from animals A good example is cochineal, which is a brilliant red dye produced from insects living on cactus plants. The properties of the cochineal bug was discovered by pre-Columbian Indians who would dry the females in the sun, and then ground the dried bodies to produce a rich, rich red powder. When mixed with water, the powder produced a deep, vibrant red coloring. Cochineal is still harvested today on the Canary Islands. In fact, most cherries today are given their bright red appearance through the artificial color "carmine", which comes from the cochineal insect. Major Animal Dyes: Cochineal (red) - from bodies of cochineal insects. Tyrian Purple (purple or crimson) - from the bodies of some types of marine snails. Sepia (brown) - from secretions of several types of cuttlefish

Colour
Red dye Safflower Caesalpinia Madder Log wood L. Khat palak Indian mulberry Kamala Lac Yellow dye Golden rod. Marigold Saffron Blue dye Indigo Woad Sunt berry Pivet Water lily Black dye Alder Rofblamala Custard apple Harda Orange dye Annota Dhalia Lily Nettles

Botanical name
Carthamus tinctorius L. Caesalpinia sappan L. Rubia tinctorium L. Haematoxylon campechianum Rumex dentatus L. Morinda tinctoria L. Mallotus philippinensis Muell. Coccus lacca Kerr.

Parts used
Flower Wood Wood Wood Wood Wood Flower Insect

Mordants
Alum Alum Alum Alum Alum Stannic chloride

Solidago grandis DC Tagetes sp. Crocus sativus L.

Flower Flower Flower

Alum Chrome Alum

Indigofera tinctoria L. Isatis tinctoria L. Acacia nilotica (L.) Ligustrum vulgare L. Nymphaea alba L.

Leaf Leaf Seed pod Fruit Rhizome

Alum Alum and iron Iron and acid

Alnus glutinosa (L.) Gaertn Loranthus pentapetalus Roxb..

Bark

Leaf

Ferrous sulphate Ferrous sulphate

Anona reticulata L. Terminalia chebula Retz.

Fruit Fruit

Ferrous sulphate

Bixa orellena L. Dhalia sp. Convallaria majalis L. Urtica dioica L.

Seed Flower Leaf Leaf

Alum Alum Ferrous sulphate Alum

 Mordants for Natural Dyeing Mordants are needed to set the color when using natural dyes. Different mordants will give different results. Alum: (Aluminum Potassium Sulfate) This is the most widely used mordant. Be careful not to use too much with wool, otherwise you will get a sticky feeling that doesn't come out. Copper: (Copper Sulfate) This mordant is used to bring out the greens in dyes. It will also darken the dye colors, similar to using tin, but is less harsh. *Chrome: (Potassium Dichromate) Chrome brightens dye colors and is more commonly used with wool and mohair than with any other fiber. Extremely toxic. Chrome should not be inhaled and gloves should be worn while working with chrome. Left over mordant water should be disposed of at a chemical waste disposal site and treated as hazardous waste. Iron: (Ferrous Sulfate) Dulls and darkens dye colours. Using too much will make the fiber brittle. Glaubersalt: (Sodium Sulfate) Used in natural dyes to level out the bath. Also use in chemical dye. Spectralite: (Thiourea Dioxide) This is a reducing agent for indigo dyeing. Tara Powder: (Caesalpinia Spinosa) Tara Powder is a natural tannin product. It is needed for darker colors on cotton, linen and hemp. Tartaric Acid: A must for cochineal. This mordant will expand the cochineal colors. Tin: (Stannous Chloride) Tin will give extra bright colors to reds, oranges and yellows on protein fibers. Using too much will make wool and silk brittle. To avoid this you can add a pinch of tin at the end of the dying time with fiber that was premordanted with alum. Tin is not commonly used with cellulose fibers. Calcium Carbonate: Is to be used with indigo powder for the saxon blue color. It can also be used to lower the acidity of a dyebath.

Procedure For Dyeing

Pre- Mordanting Stage Mordanting of water soaked wool sample at simmering point for 30 mins. Rinsing of mordanted wool sample with water. Drenching of mordanted wool sample in a dye bath containing extracted dye. Dyeing at simmering point for 30 mins to 1 hr. Washing of dyed wool sample in ezee soap solution and the rinsing with water. Drying in shade at roon temperature Dyed wool sample(end product).

 Post Mordanting Stage Put extracted dye in dye bath Drenching of water soaked wool sample in dye bath. Dyeing at simmering point for 30 mins to 1 hr. Rinsing of dyed wool sample with water. Mordanting of dyed wool sample at simmering point for 30 to 45 mins. Washing of mordanted wool sample in ezee soap solution, there after rinsing with water. Drying in shade at room temperature. Dyed wool sample(end product).

Animal: Cochineal insect (red) Cow urine (Indian yellow) Lac insect (red, violet) Murex snail (purple) Octopus/Cuttlefish (sepia brown)

Plant: Catechu or Cutch tree (brown) Gamboge tree resin (dark mustard yellow) Himalayan rubhada root (yellow) Indigofera plant (blue) Kamala tree (orange-yellow, golden yellow) Larkspur plant (yellow) Madder root (red, pink, orange) Myrabolan fruit (yellow, green, black) Pomegranite peel (yellow) Weld herb (yellow)

Mineral:
Arsenic (green) Brown clay (umber brown) Cadmium (green, red, yellow, orange) Carbon (black) Chromium (yellow, green) Cinnabar (vermillion) Cobalt (blue) Copper (green, blue, purple) Hydrated iron oxide (ochre) Lead (white, yellow-red) Limonite clay (sienna) Titanium (white, beige, yellow, black) Zinc (white)