Surfer14 min read
No Manis An Island
poised to affect positive change along his home coastlines and beyond I WAS SITTING ON MY BOARD AT THE OPENING OF A RIVER MOUTH JUST OUTSIDE HILO, HAWAII, GETTING JOSTLED IN CLOUDY, BRACKISH WATER BY SIZEABLE SWELLS THAT HAD LOOKED MUCH MORE MANAGEAB
Surfer4 min read
Someplace like Home
You know that cheesy, old adage about home being where the heart is? Well, cheesy or not, every surfer who’s ever hit the road and found a wave perfectly suited to their approach knows that on some level that’s true. Although the surfy version of tha
Surfer24 min read
Surfboard Guide
Ex-pro snowboarder Colter Deupree breaks down his snowboard-inspired designs If you were to walk into the shaping bay of pro-snowboarder-turned-shaper Colter Deupree and pick up one of his boards, you might, just for a split second, believe you’re ho
Surfer6 min read
Accessory Guide
PRESENTED BY Special Advertising Section CAPTAINFIN.COM The Pack Mule Cinched Top Bag is a great all-around bag for your travel needs. We’ve included a wet/dry bag with a clamp roll top to keep your wet and dry goods separate. Keep your laptop safe a
Surfer3 min read
Editor’s Note
Shock and awe are feelings I’ve experienced in Hawaii many times before—usually due to the power of the waves, their proximity to the reef and how swells there are prone to doubling in size if you take your eyes off the horizon for even half a second
Surfer4 min read
Clueless to Ruthless
I simply could not believe it. This freaking guy. He’d barely scratch into a wave at the boil-ridden, sand-sucking point we were surfing before hilariously biffing the drop and getting pitched into the flats, board tombstoning. While he flailed aroun
Surfer3 min read
From The Streets To The Streets
Through the 1990s, there was indeed no slap on the North Shore feared more than that from Pipe commander Johnny Boy Gomes, the bruising power surfer who, at 5’9" and 200 pounds, was built like a bulldozer with a ferocious temper to match. He struck f
Surfer1 min read
The Kimbo Twin-Fin
“I’d been riding a lot of twin-fin eggs in smaller waves in the summer, but I wanted to make a bigger one for Blacks in the winter. So I was already planning on making an 8’0" round-tail egg, but before I did, my dog, Kimbo, passed away when I was ou
Surfer3 min read
Matt Hoy, 48
Just get out there and make a go of it. I was doing badly in amateur events as a teenager, but Luke Egan grabbed me and said, “Fuck that amateur stuff. Come have a go at the Tour.” I told my mom I was leaving school to try to make it as a pro. She fr
Surfer7 min read
Livin’enviably
“They let their surfing do the talking” has long been considered one of the highest compliments we, as a culture, can bestow upon a surfer. It implies a kind of humble disinterest in the spotlight of surf stardom, as if to say that how we ride waves
Surfer11 min read
The House That Pipe Built
If you’ve spent any time there at all, it may be difficult to imagine, but Pipeline wasn’t always the spotlight-illuminated headliner on surfing’s main stage: the North Shore of Oahu. Until the late ‘60s, that distinction belonged to the big, warbly
Surfer3 min read
Editor’s Note
I shaped a board once. Just once. I did it a few years ago, and, up until recently, I thought that was more than enough for this lifetime. It’s not that there was anything wrong with the board—a wide, thick, almost-rockerless, chop-tailed 5'5" quad t
Surfer2 min read
Proctor Surfboards Worldwide Custom
Shaper: Todd Proctor FACTORY / SHOWROOM LOCATION: 1920 GOODYEAR AVE. #A VENTURA, CA 93003 PHONE NUMBER: 805-658-7659 EMAIL ADDRESS: INFO@PROCTORSURF.COM WEBSITE: PROCTORSURF.COM BLOG: AMERICANSURFBOARDFACTORY.COM INSTAGRAM: @PROCTOR_SURFBOARDS DIMENS
Surfer4 min read
Master of Some
It was a fishing line that saved my life. A wisp of monofilament thread, just a hairsbreadth in width, nearly invisible to the naked eye, about as insubstantial as physical objects get. Nevertheless, it was strong enough. When I reached out and felt
Surfer3 min read
Two’s Company
There’s something about a twin-fin surfboard that just feels right. In the water as the rider draws a racy line or in the racks of your local surf shop just begging for a test-drive, twin-fins have a certain magnetism that perhaps no other fin config
Surfer12 min read
Handmade
“On day two I got some other tools, because the cheese grater wasn’t really cutting it,” deadpanned a dust-caked, purple-haired Andrew Doheny. He was describing his first handshaping experience—one that apparently involved various kitchen utensils—as
Surfer3 min read
Showcase Steve Sherman
About halfway through the recently-released HBO documentary “Momentum Generation”, a film by Jeff and Michael Zimbalist focusing on the New School crew’s swift rise to fame in the ‘90s, there’s a scene where Kelly Slater and Rob Machado recount their
Surfer2 min readFashion & Beauty
Patagonia
PATAGONIA.COM/SURFING A performance-focused evolution of our tried-and-true Wavefarer® Boardshorts, these superlight, fast-drying boardies are built from 100-percent recycled polyester with 2-way stretch. They’ve got a slimmer profile that minimizes
Surfer3 min read
Editor’s Note
There’s an old saying about the band The Velvet Underground, which is that they didn’t sell many records, but everyone who bought one started a band. There’s some debate over who said it first, or if it’s actually just a misquote of Brian Eno, but ei
Surfer4 min read
There Goes My Hero
By JUSTIN HOUSMAN I grew up surfing in a place where it was pretty much standard to have the lineup all to yourself. Or, if you were lucky, you might have a couple of friends to trade waves with. (This was in California, by the way—South of San Franc
Surfer10 min read
The Descendent
Interview by TODD PRODANOVICH “The world is so fucking weird right now,” Noa Deane tells me over the phone from Australia, where he’s slept in past our original interview time, but is ready to wax philosophical now that the coffee is kicking in. He’s
Surfer2 min read
The Last Place You’d Check
Words By ASHTYN DOUGLAS Photos By MIKE KILLION Last April, Puerto Rican surfer Dylan Graves hopped on a plane to chase down a swell that was predicted to be 10- to 13-feet at 7 seconds. For a veteran storm chaser like Graves, you’d think that means h
Surfer12 min read
Renegades of Punts
Words by TODD PRODANOVICH Ona November day on the North Shore of Oahu in 1995, two bleary-eyed surfers walked into Storto’s Deli in Haleiwa looking to eat just about everything in sight. While this may be a common, longstanding post-surf ritual on th
Surfer3 min read
Showcase Chris Klopf
By JUSTIN HOUSMAN There aren’t many surf photographers with a portfolio that includes imagery of both Mark Richards and CJ Nelson. Then again, there also aren’t many surf photographers who have had careers that span the better part of five decades—an
Surfer2 min read
Channel Islands Surfboards
CISURFBOARDS.COM Make no mistake, this ain’t retro. The all-new CI Fish is thinned out and tuned-up for maximum performance, making it a versatile craft in all types of waves. Incorporating high-performance attributes into a classic style shape, this
Surfer12 min read
It Starts Here
Words by SEAN DOHERTY Photos by RYAN CRAIG Dave Rastovich looks like he’s been washed ashore. He is lying on the southern edge of the Australian landmass, on a beach, on a spongy bed of rotting seaweed, in repose, hands folded across his chest, legs
Surfer3 min read
On the Nose
By ZANDER MORTON For the most part, big-wave guns have looked much the same for the last few decades. Sure, shapers have made incremental changes to volume, fin placement, rocker, bottom contours, etc., but the general shape of a big-wave surfboard l
Surfer1 min read
Greeting Chaos
During the last week of July, one of the biggest swells to ever march through the Southern Indian Ocean assailed the islands of Indonesia with unrelenting waves. On the island of Nias, locals and visiting surfers watched an ever-growing blob in the s
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